Talbot Tour



Sunday 31st May 2015

Australian eVisas applied for on the internet.

Monday 1st June 2015

E-mail confirmation of grant of one year visa free of charge.

Monday 24th July 2015

First visit to the China visa centre in Old Jewery in the City of London.

Applications refused as our applications do not stand alone. We only have one copy of our flights and hotel reservations for both our visa applications. Web site didn’t make that clear.
We will have to wait for a while to get our visas, as Martin has three back to back trips to Germany planned for work and cannot spare his passport for a week until after the three trips.
Next appointment for the China Visa Centre booked for Monday 21st July at 13:00.

Monday 21st July 2015

Second visit to the China Visa Centre. Applications submitted, now we wait. Passports due back Thursday or Friday which is good as Martin has a work trip to France on Sunday morning.

Friday 24th July 2015

China visas collected from the visa centre £66 each for a single 30 day visit. At last our visas finally arranged with 21 days to spare.





Saturday 15th August 2015

Steph and Mike arrived on schedule along with Abbey to take us to Heathrow airport. The traffic was a little slow but we arrived with plenty of time to spare. At the check in desk the lovely man opened Martin's passport and queried the Chinese visa. We had a small moment of terror remembering the hassle of obtaining the visas. He then realised that he had misread it and all was in order.

We passed smoothly through security search. The search staff borrowed Jackies liquids ziplock bag. Holding it above his head he walked down the queue showing everyone how perfect it was and they should all try to copy how this wonderful woman had prepared. Sneaking off teachers pet and Martin found a restaurant and had a leisurely lunch.

Our flight was called and we boarded quickly, stowed our bags and settled into our seats. Then we watched in disbelief as our fellow passengers boarded. We were the only non-Chineese passengers on the flight. We were in fits of laughter as bags were put in lockers and the doors were shut only to be immediately opened so the bag could be taken out and passed to someone else to be placed in a different locker. We saw the same box of cornflakes put into five different overhead lockers in twenty minutes.

Eventually the cabin crew started to tell them to sit down. However ten minutes later with the aircraft taxing to the runway the crew finally got the lockers shut and everyone strapped in. Not a moment too soon as we immediately started our takeoff run.

After takeoff the complementary wine arrived followed by dinner and then sleep.

Sunday 16th August 2015

Arriving at Beijing airport we got through immigration and collected our baggage. Walking out into the meeting area we found our tour rep Emma.
She led us out of the airport to our waiting car. An hour later at the entrance to the Hutong area we were dropped off. Then a short walk through the crowds in the pedestrian area brought us to our accommodation for the next three nights. Checking in we promised to meet our guide at 07:30 the next morning.

Settling into our room with it's four poster bed we had a shower and a nap as it was only 11:00 local time. At three o'clock with the shadows lengthening we decided to go for a walk and explore the Hutong area. We wandered along in the crowd looking at shops who sold who knows what as we couldn't understand the signs. After a while we found a river and sat in the shade of a willow tree to cool down.

Eventually we found the restaurant area and started looking for somewhere to eat. The restaurant staff of several establishments were lined up on the pavement doing their team building dance before starting service.



We had underestimated the problems involved in not speaking or reading Chinese. We couldn't even guess what any particular restaurant served or what the prices were. We chose one because the menu had pictures of the dishes and using pointing indicated what we would like to eat. The food arrived and we ate using chopsticks. Fortunately when the bill arrived it had the price printed in English. So we paid and walked back to our hotel for a good nights sleep.

Monday 17th August 2015

Up at six o'clock this morning, showered and into breakfast when it started at seven. Today we are going to visit the Great Wall of China. Emma was waiting in the hotel reception when we got there three minutes early. We walked down the alley to find our car waiting in the pedestrian area. We rode out off town in air conditioned comfort. The traffic was interesting. Although there are lines on the road they appear to be optional. We were overtaken on the nearside even though there wasn't a lane there.

After two hours we arrived at the Great Wall at Mutianyu. Buying tickets for the cable car we rode up to the wall. At ten pounds return that was a no brainer. The temperature is in the thirties and it is very humid. The gondola we rode had a sign to let us know it has been used by Prime Minister John Major when he visited.

Walking along the wall we should have realised that there would be steps. The wall is very impressive and as the only man made structure visible with the naked eye from space, joins our list with the Great Barrier Reef in Australia that is the only living thing visible from space.

Very hot, sweaty and tired we took the cable car back down and went to a restaurant for lunch. More rice and chopsticks. Having figured out which bowl to use we also had tea to drink. Then it was back in the car for the drive back into town.

After an hours drive we arrived at the Ming Dynasty Toombs at Chang Ling. We toured the museum in the Hall of Eminent Favour and saw the statue of The Emperor Yongle who moved China's capital from Nanjing to Beijing and had the Forbidden City built.
Driving further into Bejing we stopped for a photo opertunity at the 2008 Olympic park. We couldn't get in as the World Athletics starts in a few days.

We were dropped off at the enterance to the Hutong. Our guide and driver were surprised that we were confident that we would get back to the hotel. With instructions to be ready tomorrow at nine to visit the Forbidden City we strolled back to our room for a well earned shower and a rest.

Tuesday 18th August 2015

Lazy start today up at seven thirty for breakfast we met our guide in the lobby. Walking out to the main road to find the car for the short drive to the Llama Temple a very ornate complex with many Buddhist temples. We were given incense sticks and offered three in the first temple "The Happy Buddha".

After an hour touring the various Buddhas in their temples it was time to return to the car. An hours drive took us to the "Temple of Heaven". A calm oasis in the middle of hectic Beijing. The retired come here each day to exercise and play games. We walked through the park looking at the Concentric marble circles of the alter to the heavens.

The Echo Wall which is reputed to carry a whisper to the opposite side of the enclosure, unfortunately it was not possible to test this due to the large number of people shouting at the top of their voices and congratulating themselves for being heard by their friends the other side of the enclosure. The fact that they shouted so loud they would have been heard in the front row of a rock concert escaped their notice, Oh well.

Back in the car we sat in heavy traffic for a while on our way to Tian'an Men Square. The driver couldn't get to the square so he dropped us off in a side street and we walked to the square. Preparations are underway for a celebration of 70 years since the end of the second world war so security was tight. We had our bags searched and passports checked (fortunately we had them with us as we never leave the hotel without them when abroad).

Crossing the square we made our way to the entrance of The Forbidden City. The queue for entry tickets was huge and there is a limit to the number issued each day. Fortunately Emma had used her official guide credentials to pre-book us using our passport details. So bypassing the queue we were in. The Forbidden City is a very large and ornate complex of palaces all roofed with golden roof tiles.

Having spent the best part of two hours walking around the various buildings we reached the exit and said goodbye to Emma. We think she was pleased that we could find our own way back to our hotel and she could get an early finish. We walked back through the crowds in the Hutong grabbing some ice cream and chorios (long thin sticks of deep fried doughnut batter) on the way. Then back to the room for a coffee and a shower, before resting our feet and ankles for the dinner walk.

Wednesday 19th August 2015

Off to Xi'an by train today. Late start breakfast and back to the room to pack. Checking out at 11 o'clock we left our cases at the hotel and walked out to the main road and flagged down a taxi. We nearly got run over three times in the process but eventually we were on our way to a new shopping mall called Joy City. Paying the taxi fare 30 Yuan (£3) we entered the air conditioned luxury of the mall. We shopped and drank coffee. Martins phone has stopped charging so we found a phone shop and brought a new battery for our Australia phone and switched the SIM card to that.

With two hours left before we were due to be collected form the hotel we grabbed a taxi back to the hotel. The taxi got cut up by another driver and we were treated to some obviously profane Chinese accompanied by blasts of the horn. All the more amusing as the taxi driver was a lady.

Back at the Hutong we colleted our cases from the hotel and walked to the pick up point. Within minutes of our arrival the driver turned up and we crawled through the Beijing traffic the railway station. Sitting in the waiting room we enjoyed watching the other travellers. Half an hour before departure our train was called and we boarded the night train to Xi'an.

We are sharing the four berth cabin with a couple of Chinese girls. The younger one talked and talked and talked. Happy to be practicing her English on real English people. After an hour we all settled down to sleep. Well sort of the driver of the train enjoyed using his horn. Every 15 or so seconds Beeeeep then a pause and beep beep. Then when our neighbours went to bed and they were no longer leaning on the wall cushion it started banging on the wall. They eventually fixed the cushion and the driver ran out of things to sound his horn at and we dropped off to sleep.

Thursday 20th August 2015

Waking up at half six we used the bathroom before the rush and got dressed, sitting on our beds our young friend took the time to show us all the photographs in her phone. That kept Jackie quiet for about an hour lol. Pulling in to Xi'an Station we disembarked and walked out of the station. Battling through the crowds of meeters & greeters and people selling maps, tours and taxi rides we spotted the driver waiting for us. Crossing the road and finding his car was easy getting through the traffic wasn't. Eventually we arrived at our hotel.

As usual they photocopied our passport and visas for the police and gave us our room key. Unfortunately our room wasn't ready but we were told it would be in 40 minutes. So we sat in the bar and had a cup of coffee for 45 minutes. Walking back to reception the manager sent a bell boy up to our room to find out what was going on. He returned to say that the room wasn't ready. So we left our cases and went for a walk. Finding the underpass around Bell Tower Square we also found the queue for the tower and decided not to bother at the moment. Strolling away from the tower we spotted the Drum Tower and walked to that. Here we found the entrance to a market, weaving through the little alleys and arcades we picked up a Christmas tree decoration from China and nearly got run down by a couple of electric scooters that sneak up behind you then beep their horn for you to get out of the way.

Walking south we came to the Southern Gatehouse in the city wall. Climbing the stairs we strolled along the wall for a while before searching for lunch. We returned to our hotel and finally our room was ready. After a shower and a chill session we went down to the bar for some coffee, cake and fruit before nipping out for a spot of night touring. The traffic is anything was worse, the little electric scooters nipping in and out of the cars and busses. Some even going the wrong way around the roundabout carrying dad, mum sitting side saddle (holding baby) and three year old standing on running board between dads knees eating dinner, while mum is on the phone. No lights and not a helmet in sight. The surprise is that it wasn't unusual.

After a while watching a driver get a ten minute time out for beeping his horn at a policeman and a remote control aeroplane lit with LEDs dive-bombing the traffic it was time for a good nights sleep.

Friday 21st August 2015

Waking up at half six again, who said holidays were relaxing? Quick breakfast and meet our driver in the hotel lobby. We arrived ten minutes early and he was already there so we got on the road. Getting out of the city took half an hour and after twenty minutes on a good main road we turned off. Obviously a local drivers back double as we drove through villages passing through a market. After travelling for 90 minutes we pulled into the parking area. Our driver speaks no English and we no Chinese. He wrote 12:30 on a scrap of paper and pointed to the ground. OK we need to be back at the car at half twelve. We have three hours.

We brought our ticket and walked to the security post at the entrance. Bags through the X-ray machine and walk through the detector arch. With keys and two phones in Martins pocket the metal detector was beeping like a Chinese train driver but no one blinked an eye, we picked up our bags and continued inside.

Our first stop was the bronze chariot exhibition. After spending some quality air-conditioning time admiring the artefacts we continued on the Terracotta Army pits. The guidebooks we have studied recommend viewing the pits in reverse order as pit one is the most spectacular and two and three can seem a let down. Taking this advice we started with pit 2.

Pits 2 and 3 were very interesting with selections of soldiers and horses on display in the pits in which they were found. The guide book was correct pit one is amazing rank after rank of warriors and horses stood in their pits. Pit beside pit the number is breathtaking. We didn't even mind waiting a couple of minutes to get a place at the front near the entrance. After two hours which flew by we did a little shopping and grabbed an ice cream. Then it was a dash back to the car. Phew ten minutes early. Then the drive back town.

After a shower and cool down in air conditioned room we put our grubby clothes back on and went for a walk through the market. As we had missed lunch we purchesed food in the street market. A local delicacy, breadcrumbed whole deep fried squid on a stick - num num num. We ate as we walked admiring the other food and produce available for sale. At about four pm we found our way to the southern city gate. Climbing up onto the wall we rented two bikes for two hours for nine pounds. We set off cycling around the top of the wall, stopping occasionally for photos and water to drink. After one hour we had completed three quarters of the way around the wall and stopped in the shade of one of the gate houses. Martin went to buy some water and somehow managed to also buy our second ice cream of the day. Guess it's a man thing can't just get what he's sent for. Refreshed we finished the eight mile circuit of the city wall and returned our bikes. Then we returned to our hotel to repack for tomorrows flight to Shanghai and a good nights sleep.





Saturday 22nd August 2015

Up and out this morning. We have a taxi to the airport booked for 08:00 and paid for in advance. Down to the lobby at twenty minutes to eight, so we can check out and be on time for the taxi. As we stepped out of the lift we were pounced upon by the Concierge. "The taxi is here" he said. "That's nice but we need to check out" replied Martin. While Martin was dealing with the check out formalities the concierge had kidnapped our bags. As soon as we had finished with the paperwork and getting our deposit back we were whisked out of the hotel to the car park where the concierge insisted the taxi driver show us our cases in the boot. Then we were helped into the taxi and we were gone. 07:45 driving out of Xi'an. The driver had the usual disregard for everyone else on the road and we rocketed through the traffic. The usual one hour trip was done in 45 minutes and at 08:30 we were stood in front of a departures board that not only didn't show our flight, it didn't show the flights that departed half an hour before ours.

Eventually our flight appeared on the board and we walked to the indicated check in island only to find massive queues. Eagle eye Jackie spotted a man readying a check in desk to open. As he looked up Jackie shot forward and was only beaten by one person in the neighbouring queue who had also been watching. So we were checked in and proceeded through security. Once airside it was breakfast time so we had a cup of coffee and a muffin.

On the plane we had centre and aisle seats. A young Chinese lady was sat with us by the window. Flying Eastern China Airlines they are slightly stricter than western airlines have become about using electronic devices. Whilst the cabin crew were dishing up food and drinks they noticed her using her iPhone. Not speaking Chinese we didn't know what was said but from the tone of voice and the body language she had been well told off. Landing at Shanghai we collected our bags and met our driver who was holding up a sign for Jacqueline Martin. In the car and whoosh, Into the centre of town and dropped off outside our hotel.

We are staying at the "Aston House Hotel" a 150 year old hotel similar to the "Raffles" in Singapore. Our bags were taken from the car and we were directed into the hotel with the doorman holding the door for us. Having checked in we were escorted to out room by a bell boy with our bags. The room has a massive bed, parquet flooring and a bar. With double sinks, a bath and a walk in wet room shower in the en-suite.

Having rested up for a while we walked out of the hotel and down the Bund. This is a pedestrian area alongside the Huangpu River. The weather was a nice change, cool with a nice breeze. After a couple of hours it started spitting with rain, so we ducked into a shopping centre and found a restaurant for dinner. After dinner with the sun setting we walked back to the Bund and got a front row position for the evening lights. All the buildings along the river are lit up some with flood lights. Some even have computer controlled systems that can display pictures and video. All of the pleasure craft and tourist boats are decorated with lights. It is a spectacular sight. After and hour of watching lights and people we returned to the hotel for the night.

Sunday 23rd August 2015

Our last full day in China today. Long lay in. Up at eight thirty and down for breakfast. After Breakfast we decided to go for a short walk and check out our trip to the airport tomorrow. As we got to the front door we realised it was pouring with rain. The door staff of the hotel asked if we would like an umbrella. Deciding this might be a good idea we paid a small deposit at the desk and walked out into the rain. Walking down the Bund we couldn't see the top of the The Pearl Tower on the opposite bank. With the rain continuing we decided to try the Tourist Tunnel under the river. Paying the fare of 50 Yuan (£5) each we took the escalator down to the platform and boarded the smallish capsule. The capsule could probably hold twenty people and there were ten of us in this one, so there was plenty of space. The capsule moved down the tunnel in the dark. After a short time a light show started. The locals oooh-ed and aaaaah-ed. The tour guide we had read described the experience as tacky, unfortunately it wasn't that impressive. However, at least it was out of the rain.

On the opposite bank we walked around The Pearl Tower and the found a nice cafe overlooking the river. After a coffee we walked along the river to the ferry pier to get back across. For the massive price of 2 Yuan (20p) each we got a token and boarded the ferry that had just pulled in. The five minute ride across the river was smooth and the rain had slackened off.

Our next task was to find the underground station that we are planning to use tomorrow. Walking to Nanjing Road East station we decided to test the ticket machines by travelling one stop south on the Line 10. Approaching the ticket machine we were very happy to see the "English" button in the top right corner of the screen. Switching to English it was then easy to select the line and station we wanted and for 60 Yuan (60p) we collected our tickets. The underground is very modern and easy to navigate. Getting off at Yuyuan Garden we walked to and around the Bazaar. Fending off the touts who wanted us to buy watches, silk, jade and anything else in the store that paid them commission. We strolled along looking at the stalls. After an hour we returned to the underground station and retraced our route then walked back to the hotel for a rest.

Later we left the hotel to find dinner, we had been recommended a restaurant around the corner called "Morning Shanghai". Walking in the door we were shown to a table and given menus. Looking through the food available there was nothing that Martin would eat and even Jackie struggled to find anything that appealed to her. The cheapest dish was ten pounds for a small, cold rice dish. The fish head didn't look all that filling so we decided to leave and try somewhere else. The next restaurant was serving a fusion between Western and Taiwanese cuisines. Ordering and eating dinner went smoothly and was very tasty.

After dinner we returned to our room to repack our cases for tomorrow. Checking in online with Qantas, we found we had been allocated the seats we would have chosen. So we are ready for the next leg of our journey.

Monday 24th August 2015

Getting up for breakfast it's raining cats and dogs. We may need to change plans. After eating we went back to our room to finish packing. At eleven o'clock down to the lobby to check out and it's still raining. We had planned an half hour stroll to the nearest underground station but with this rain we would be drowned before we got there. Booking a taxi instead, Martin ducked across the road to find an ATM. The half hour ride to Pudong Airport was hard as we couldn't see out of the cab windows due to the condensation. As we are so early we dropped our cases at the left luggage for a fiver. Walking upstairs we found seats in a cafe and grabbed a coffee.

After coffee we decided to ride the Maglev trajn (Magnetic Levitation ) back into town. We had planned to ride it out to the airport ut the rain spoiled that. Paying the 160 Yuan (16) for round trip tickets.we jumped on the train that was waiting. We were back in town in eight minutes achieving a speed of 301 kph. Transferring on to the underground we found a shopping centre and spent some time window shopping. Returning to the Maglev we headed back out to the airport. As it was now afternoon rush hour the train went faster topping out at an impressive 431 kph.

Back in the terminal we reclaimed our cases and checked the flight information board. Due to the cyclone that has caused all the rain there are a lot of cancellations and delays. After ten minutes of waiting our flight appeared and we noined the very short queue for check in. The couple in front of us have been waiting twelve hours as their flight this morning was cancelled. Checked in and through Chinese departure immigration we found a restaurant to sit and watch the world go by while waiting for our gate to open.

With our flight called we boarded and enjoyed playing with the fittings on our seats, this is probably the most modern aircraft we have flown. After takeoff we watched a movie and had dinner. Then it was lights out and try and sleep.

Tuesday 25th August 2015

Waking up after a few hours we decided there was enough time to watch another film. While we were watching the cabin crew came passed and dished out breakfast. When our films finished we had half an hour until we landed. There was a clump of bad weather on the final aproach to Sydney airport. As we approached tbe runway there must have been wind sheer as the aircraft dipped and the pilots spooled the engines up to go around for another attempt. We spent a couple of minutes orbiting just south of the airport before landing safely.

Getting through immigration went as normal. Martin whisked away to discuss his criminal record. Then quarntine to discuss the wooden items and medicines we are importing. As usual the staff are pleased we declared everything but they are happy that what we have poses no risk to Australia and we are out of the airport well ahead of the people queueing in the nothing to declare zone.

Taking a taxi to the camper hire yard we completed the paperwork and paid the remaining hire fee. Unfortunately because Australia doesn't have debit cards the only way our bank cards work is by pretending that they are credit cards. This entails a credit ard surcharge of two percent. Still a bit grumpy at having to pay an unnecessary charge we were shown to our Adventure Camper. The lad demonstrating how everything worked knew less than we did. Filling in the condition report took quite a while as this camper has bad a hard life. As far as we are concerned it doesn't matter what it looks like as long as the important bits work.

Driving out of Sydney we stopped at Martin's Dad house in Penrith and spent a couple of hours drinking tea and chatting. Then to the shops for food and housekeeping goods for camping. Afterwards we drove over the river to Emu Plains and our camp site. Here after checking in we spent the rest of the day sorting out the camper. As it was now late we walked to the local shops and picked up a takeaway for dinner the settled down for our first night in the campervan.

Wednesday 26th August 2015

Spent today catching up with family and shopping for last few items for the campervan.

Thursday 27th August 2015

Up at seven and on the road by eight. We drove out of Emu Plains and picked up the Blue Mountains road. We immediately started climbing, our ears popping regularly. Up in the mountains we were in the cloud, but soon we were dropping down on the other side. Althougb cloudy the rain stopped and we drove on. After three hours and 300km we stopped for breakfast and coffee in Mudgee. Filling the fuel tank and spare fuel jerrycans we drove on. After another three hours we arrived at our overnight stop at Nyngan, next to the wier.



We are camped beside the Bogan River, guess we are in "Bogan" central.
(Bogans in Australia have a similar reputation to "Red Necks" in the USA) Setting up camp was easy, we have sorted out the camper the same as we had it in 2013. It's surprising how stuff comes back to you. We each remembered what we had to do and within half an hour the camp was set up and the kettle was on for tea and afternoon cake (cakeypangs time as we call it lol).

With camp set we walked down to the water in the dam and enjoyed the quiet and birdsong before returning to the camper for the evening. Sitting under the clear blue sky we watched the birds in the trees surrounding our campsite.

Friday 28th August 2015

Up breakfast and on the road by eight. After two hours we drove into Bourke. Stopping for a coffee we brought some ham salad rolls for lunch and pushed on. Five kilometers north of Bourke the main Mitchell Highway turned right. We didn't, carrying on along the Dowling Track. After five kilometres the tarmac ran out and we passed the signs telling us that unsealed roads are dangerous. The next 200 km to Hungerford we the usual mix of sand, gravel and corrugations.

Arriving at Hungerford we had to stop and open the gate in the Dog Fence to enter Queensland. As Martin was closing the gate a ute appeared and we allowed him through before securing the gate. The driver was well pleased that he didn't have to get out and open the gate.

Driving through town and continuing on another 200 km of gravel. We dodged emu that burst out of the bush and launched themselves at us. Breaked hard to avoid the kangaroos that bounced across the road in front of us. Slowed to miss the heard of cows. All this on top of sliding around on a changing loose surface or bouncing over corrugations. All good fun but tiring.

Eventually we reached our nights stop in Thargomindah, Queensland. We have found a cheap caravan park with a good write up. Only A$20 for the night. Jack the caretaker is an interesting character and we chatted for a while before setting up camp.

After cooking diner and washing up we watched the stars for a while before before retiring for the night.

Saturday 29h August 2015

Nice shower in the new amenities block. Feeling nice and clean but smelling a little wiffy as we are using bore water. After breakfast we said goodbye to Jack and hit the road. Topping up with fuel we headed west towards Innamincka. After three hours we stopped at the Burke and Wills "Dig Tree". It was here they returned to after completing the trip from Adelaide all the way to the Gulf of Carpentaria. Only to find their support crew had given up and left seven hours before they arrived. The support crew had burried food and left a message on the tree telling where to dig to find the food. Unfortunately both Burke and Wills died.

Dropping in to Innamincka we topped up the fuel tank again and grabbed an ice cream before heading south on the Strzeleki Track. Battling the corrugations and dodging through tbe the road works we were making good time. We arrived at another set of road works just behind the tanker truck spraying water onto the road. Following him at 40kph we waited for the end of the road works to get past him. Good job we did as the tread in our tyres filled up with very sticky mud and we started sliding off the road. Martin thought we had a puncture because tbe camper was so uncontrollable. So we stopped to check, no puncture but tbe road surface was so slick we could only pull away in third gear on tick over. Just like driving on black ice.

We made it safely to the end of the works and continued on to our overnight stop at Montecollina Bore, a nice sandy campsite with ponds made by water drawn from the bore. After watching eagles hunting, at sunset the flies went to bed and we had dinner and then sat out to watch the stars until bed time.

Sunday 30th August 2015

Driving on this morning we finnished the Strzeleki Track at Lyndhurst and continued in to Leigh Creek. Topping up the fuel again and grabbing a snack from the service station we continued south to Port Augusta. Stopping in at the visitor centre we ordered the Swagmans Steak Burger. Every time we pass through Port Augusta we stop and have a Swagmans, it's getting to be a tradition.

Finding a caravan park we set up for the night and then went to find some free WiFi to upload the photographs. Thank you Macca's Australia for the coffee and the free internet. Then it was back to the park for the night.

Monday 31st August 2015

Today we drove into Elizabeth to spend the night with our friends Scott, Vestna, Olly and Juli.

Tuesday 1st September 2015

Up at seven and on the road north again. Leaving the city we took a different route to return to Leigh Creek. We had lunch and filled up with fuel before continuing past Lyndhurst and on to the gravel road to Marree. At Marree we topped off the fuel again at A$190 per litre. In town it was only A$119 per litre.

Stopping at the beginning ot the Birdsville Track to confirm that the road is open, we drove the fourty kilometers up the track to our stop for the night. Now we can truthfully say the road was open when we started. If we had spent the night in Marree and found the road closed in the morning we would have been dissapointed. On the track we stopped to watch a daddy emu and his chicks walking along beside the road. We are camping at Clayton Bore which is close to the Clayton Homestead. It is only ten dollars in the honesty box and there are toilets, a shower and a hot tub fed from the bore. The weather is a little wet and windy so we probably won't use the tub.



Wednesday 2nd September 2015

Up for breakfast, we were awake most of the night as the thunder was rumbling all around us and the wind was whistling past the camper. After breakfast we set off and soon caught up with a group of vehicles driving along at 80 kph. Not sure of the protocol as on the Strzelecki the signs said not to overtake on gravel sections Martin waited behind them at a safe distance. After ten minutes of boredom a car overtook us doing close on 140 kph scattering gravel as he passed. Taking that as the norm Martin pulled out and got past the slow movers and we drove on.

Stopping at lunch time at Mungerannie we used the facilities and checked out the bar/ resteraunt. As there was a tagalong tour in the bar taking up all the space at the bar we left and carried on. Stopping at the first camp site we found it to be desolate. No trees, just sand and rocks and with the wind howling across the miles of open desert. We checked WikiCamps and found a site that sounded better and was just 48km up the road.

A short distance after leaving the stop we overtook a man on a small buggy powered by a windsurfer sail trundling along the road at about 50kph. Just in fromt of him was his support vehicle. We are continually supprised by what people use to travel around Australia. Over the years we have seen rollerbladers, cyclists, walkers and even a man pushing a washing macine.

After half an hour we pulled off the road and into the lee of a sand dune. WikiCamps just calls this place "North of the dune". Although the wind is still strong it is slightly reduced by the dunes and the trees. Setting up camp we discovered the flies. Putting on our "Desert Dwellers" cream to deter the flies we went for a walk and spotted budgerigars, eagles, galahs and various other birds.

Returning to the camper we had our mid afternoon tea and cake before spending time with the map deciding on how far to travel tomorrow and where to camp tomorrow night. Then it was just time to sit and enjoy the scenery until the sun set and the flies went to bed so we could cook dinner in peace.

Once the sun had set we sat out and watched the stars come out. Clear of all light polution and on a moonless night the stars were brilliant with the Milkyway running in a creamy band down the centre of the sky. We don't see anywhere near this number of stars at home.

Thursday 3rd September 2015

After a wonderful peaceful night we were woken at 06:45 by the corellas waking up and taking off for their morning exercise, screeching as they went. Three laps of our camper and then away to find their breakfast. Getting up we found that the flies hadn't woken up yet so we quickly fixed our breakfast Weetbix followed by two slices of raisin toast with a cup of tea. Then we washed and cleaned our teeth, finishing as the flies finally got up.

Driving the last 150km into Birdsville. We found the town stuffed to bursting with people. Not surprising as the races start tomorrow. Filling our fuel tank we stopped at the Birdsville Bakery and picked up two chicken salad rolls for lunch. Jackie spotted a camel curry pie so we got one to try. Mmmm very nice. Resisting temptation we didn't go back in for more but drove out of town and the 30 km to "Big Red".

Arriving at the dunes we were not that impressed as it wasn't that big or that red but we walked up for a look. We watched several people drive over and then walked back down. As we were walking back to the camper we noticed a few vehicles driving down a side track. Following this we came to what is actually Big Red. Much more impressive we climbed up and watched people failing to get back over the dune, stalling out and having to reverse back down. Deciding that rolling the camper trying to climb the dune was a stupid idea, we headed back into town.

Getting through the one way system in place for the races we took the road north. Stopping after an hour we parked under a gum tree and ate our rolls. Pushing on for another hour and a half brought us to the marker for the Tropic of Capricorn. After a photo stop we continued on to Boulia.

Our WikiCamps app tells us there is a free camping area behind the race course. So topping up our fuel tank and buying some milk and provisions from the local store we headed out that way. Finding the road behind the racecourse we trundled along the track beside the river. Passing a couple of long term campers we found a quiet clearing and set up camp for the night. When the sun set we sat out in the warm tropical night listening to the kangeroo foraging in the river bed and the bats chirping in the trees. Then it was time for bed again.

Friday 4th September 2015

Waking up to our phone alarm for the first time since we started camping, no animals or birds to wake us. A leasurely breakfast followed by breaking camp. The usual checks before driving off, all equipment stowed and locked, nothing left behind and no rubbish. Driving out of the site we waved goodbye to the other campers who were sitting out having their breakfast.

Then turning north again we drove the three hours to Mt Isa on the single lane road. Meeting other traffic requires you to move off of the road on to the gravel shoulder with your nearside wheels, leaving your off side wheels on the road. The vehicle coming the other way does the same and after you pass you regain the road and continue.

Arriving in Mt Isa we stopped at the mall and then dropped into Maccas for free WiFi and lunch. Later we drove to the lookout and spent some time enjoying the sight of Mt Isa coal mine before filling with fuel and leaving town.

Just out of town we came to Mary Kathreen, A ghost town. Driving in we dodged the missing road by the bridge and found the town roads still laid out but no houses or other buildings. Retracing our route to the main road we continued our trip.

Two and a half hours later we arrived at the small town of Julia Creek and checked into the caravan park. Hitting the laundry we got all our clothes washed and dried. While the laundry was washing we jumped into the showers. Clean with fresh clothes we sat and chatted with a couple of campers until dinner.

While we were cooking a "Whizz-Bang" arrived. This is a panel van with a side-sliding door that goes wizzzBANG when it shuts. They are always battered and on their last legs and driven by groups of young backpackers. Hopefully they will not shut that door too often during the night.

After watching a cheeky Honey Eater flying around picking up insects and crumbs we sat out until bed time updating diaries and backing up photographs.

Saturday 5th September 2015

Awake before the alarm again, we were up and showered before anyone else was up. Eating breakfast and leaving feeling squeaky clean with a case full of clean clothes we were ready for the day. Two hours down the road we came to Hughenden. Stopping to visit the tourist information centre we picked up a Queensland map as we had just driven off of the edge of the Desert Map we had been using.

While in town we picked up some supplies and then stopped in at the local cafe, dedicated to Holden Race Cars and brought chicken salad sandwiches for lunch and coffee to go. Back on the road for another hour before stopping for lunch at a scenic view.

After lunch we drove the last two hours into Charters Towers and promptly drove out to the north for thirty kilometres to find our campsite for the night. We are at River View. Pulling off of the main road onto the gravel track we drove ten kilometres to the river. On the left was a large open area with half a dozen caravans dotted around. Looking to the right we saw a rough sandy track so decided to give that a try. Weaving through trees and up loose sand slopes we made our way to a quiet clearing over looking the river.

The bank here is vertical and four meters from water to where we are. This is a good thing as we drove past the crocodile warning signs on the way in. The river is not flowing at the moment but there is a deep billabong in the river beside us and crocodiles can live for months in muddy wallows. So no swimming today.

Having set up camp we went for a walk and saw lots of birds and many animal tracks. Returning to our camp we cooked dinner and washed up before getting changed into our mozzie repellent clothing. Sitting out as the sun set we watched sulphur crested cockatoos fly into the trees around us. That's our early morning call organised. As it got darker and the stars came out we saw bats taking off from their roosting trees for the nights hunt.

Sunday 6th September 2015

Packing up and leaving this morning while the Sulphurs performed in the trees around our camp. Driving out we made the hour and a half trip into Townsville for a major shop, we are running out of food and provisions. It's nice to be in a large town shopping mall, we actually have choices that are not "Take it or leave it ". Restocked it was time to leave town.

Using the Queensland Parks website last night we have booked a beach camp in a National Park for tonight. We have a three hour drive to get there.

Pulling off of the main road onto the access road the sign warned of eight kilometres of gravel road and recommended a thirty kilometre diversion. If we were in a car pulling a caravan maybe, but in a hilux having just driven 1000 Km of outback gravel roads, I don't think so.

Driving into the camping area we found our booked clearing and set up camp. While we were having afternoon tea and cake we noticed three kookaburras watching us from the branch of the tree we were sitting under. Later walked the ten metres to the beach past a foraging bush turky and sat on a log watching the waves.

Back to camp for dinner and then we returned to the beach. As we walked down to the water we disturbed three wallabies on the beach. They heard us as we saw them and they hopped off into the bush, so no photos unfortunately.

Back at the camper it was time to get organised for night. With the number of kookaburras we have seen we expect an early wake up call, bush style. Still if we didn't want that we would be booked into a hotel.

Monday 7th September 2015

After the kookaburras early morning call we walked along the beach for a while before returning to camp for breakfast. After washing up and putting the crockery away we broke camp but as we are not in a rush this morning we had a final stroll along the beach. Leaving the camp site we drove into Mackay and found a mall. Coffee and free wifi later the web page was uploaded and Facebook checked.

Loging on to Queensland Parks website we booked a campsite at Broken River. This is inland and up in the hills. We have previously seen platypus here but not camped. Arriving early we had the choice of camping spots and chose one right by the river. From our chairs we can see the river, so if there is any platypus activity we will know.

Then it was time to chill and watch the local birds and wildlife.

Just before sunset we walked to a point on the riverbank with a good view and spent half an hour watching platypus feeding We would watch the water for clumps of air bubbles, this shows where the platypus is rooting through the silt looking for food. Following the bubbles will show where the platypus will surface. It is important because they only spent about 15 seconds on the surface before diving again. Afterwards we returned to camp for dinner and bed.

Tuesday 8th September 2015

After breakfast we went for another platypus hunt before setting off. Back down the very steep hill we climbed yesterday, heading towards the coast. Cutting across country we intercepted the main road and turned south towards Rockhampton. Stopping at a little town called Marlborough we grabbed a sandwich and coffee for lunch in the cafe/store and fuel at the service station. 20km down the road we turned off onto a gravel road and drove the 100km to Stanage Bay. As we crested the last hill the view was stunning, crystal blue sea and dark green islands. Dropping into town we found a spot in the camping area right next to the beach.

Setting up camp and making tea took no time and after sitting and relaxing we walked to the local store to pay for our nights camp. There is no charge for camping, just make a donation to the local council. Leaving ten dollars we went for a walk past the helipad, the war memorial and out on to the beach. Stopping for a look at the wrecked boat we strolled down to the boat ramp then back to our camper.

With the sun going down we watched the parrots chasing each other and squawking in the trees. There are a lot of long stay campers here and no backpackers. Then it was time to plan tomorrows leg and cook dinner.

We have both been nibbled by sand flies which cause a small red bump and extreme itchiness, still you have to take the bad with the good, but tonight there will be a good coating of deet. We will have to chuck our thongs (flip-flops) when we go home as the deet melts them. lol

Wednesday 9th September 2015

Waking at six o'clock to the sound of other people breaking camp on another nice sunny day. We had listened to them talking last night, apparently it is going to take them three hours to drive the 100km of gravel road back out to the main road. We will do it in under an hour so if they leave before us we will be stuck behind them due to the difficulty of overtaking on a dusty gravel road.

Getting up we struck camp and were first out onto the road twenty minutes later. The penalty for this, is being the first to disturb the roos and cattle that have spent the night on or by the road. We have seen the road kill left on the road in the mornings and know the damage it would do to our camper. We had several near misses as mobs or roos bounded out of the bush either just in front of us or directly alongside. The cows were on a mission to cross the road either at a snails pace or at the gallop. I don't know if cows gallop or not but they certainly moved fast.

An hour and a half later we arrived in Rockhampton and treated ourselves to a breakfast and coffee before the mall opened at nine. As we only had another hour to drive to our next camp site we spent some time window shopping and uploading our website using the mall's free wifi. After lunch we filled our fuel and water before driving to our stop for the night.

Driving over the last crest and down onto the causeway crossing the river we couldn't find the expected site. Trying both sides of the road and river first next to the water and then further up the bank finally came to the conclusion that the only spot suitable was on a gravel island across a dried sandy river bed. So engaging four wheel drive we ploughed through the deep soft sand and made it onto the gravel. Setting up camp we found a fire ring with a log still smouldering so we rekindled it and stoked it up. Watching the wildlife while the sun set and the stars came out while sitting around our fire under the ancient gum trees was a night we will remember for ever.

Thursday 10th September 2015

The kookaburras woke us at dawn and we dragged ourselves out of bed still tired after our late night. We had just finished breakfast when a ute pulling a trailer pulled in followed by a tractor with a shovel on the front. They proceeded to dig out the sand we had driven over last night.

Packing up we re-crossed the river bed and climbed the bank at a steep part to get around where the tractor was working. Back on the road we headed south again. At eleven o'clock we pulled into Miriam Vale and fuelled up and grabbed lunch.

Later we pulled off of the main road onto the entrance to a National Park. After more gravel road we found the turn for Eurimbula Creek Camp. Weaving between the trees down the very bumpy sandy track was fun and we eventually arrived.

Finding four vacant spots we chose our favourite and got settled in. Walking past the last trees we walked out onto the beach, miles of empty sand and a bright blue sea. After wandering the beach and having cheese, ham and crackers for dinner we settled down for the night with the sound of the waves on the beach to send us to sleep.

Friday 11th September 2015

Awake at dawn we went for a long walk along the beach, checking the crab tracks and holes. Watching sand pipers fishing in tbe the waves on the beach. After a nice stroll we returned to our camp for breakfast. Striking camp we drove the twisting sand track back out to the road.

Heading south again we drove for two hours before stopping in Gympie to shop and buy lunch. Continuing on we stopped again at twelve and sat at a picnic bench in the town park and ate our lunch.

Another hour brought us to the entrance to tbe national park. A sign warned that the track was only suitable for high ground clearance 4WD vehicles. The road wasn't too rough but the three creek crossings could cause problems for a road car. Pulling into the camp area we selected our pitch and set up. Through the afternoon people arrived in ones and twos. It seems we are sharing with a large group who all know each other and meet here regularly. As the weather has turned wet we spent the afternoon chilling in the van. Fortunately we have stocked up with all the important things, biscuits, crisps and drinks.

While we were eating dinner three potaroos came foraging around the edge of the clearing. We spent fifteen minutes watching them move around and feeding, I don't think the other group noticed with their tent lights on and fire blazing. Still I think that they are here for the reunion rather than wildlife. Settling down we don't think they will be too noisy tonight as they have children with them.

Saturday 12th September 2015

How wrong we were, the children were put to bed at about eight o'clock. However the adults stayed up until one o'clock discussing Game of Thrones and Daenerys Targaryen (Khaleesi)'s figure in detail at the top of their voices. We were only saved from more by the onset of the rain which drove them to bed.

Waking up after four hours sleep by the usual dawn chorus we had breakfast and struck camp. Driving into the first large town we phoned a caravan park on the Gold Coast and booked ourselves in for two nights of pampering.

Battling through the Brisbane traffic we arrived at one o'clock and promptly showered and hit the laundry as it is a week since our last visit to a park. Stand up strip washes in the outback are OK, but a hot shower is ecstasy. With the washing drying we had tea and cake whilst researching where to go for dinner tonight. All of our meals except one have been one pot wonders, tonight will be a proper meal cooked by someone else and we are not washing up.

Just a short walk down the sea front to Marina Mirage we found a Hogs Breath Cafe and decided to have a light snack. Taking seats on the veranda we were joined by our waitress Jade, who sat down at the table with us to take our order. We remember the first time that happened, how shocked we were. An hour and a half later with bulging stomachs we ambled back to the camper for the night. We will sleep well tonight, knowing that for the first time in 18 days we are not moving tomorrow, so we can enjoy a relaxing lay in.

Sunday 13th September 2015

After a huge lay-in we were up at 07:15 a whole fifteen minutes later than normal. Walking out of the park we arrived at the local main street and found a cafe for breakfast. Having eaten we walked to the "G". This is a tram that runs along the sea front. Having figured out how the ticket machine worked we purchased tickets from Tedder Street into Surfers Paradise town centre. Walking down to the beach we stopped and took our shoes and socks off before walking on to the sand. After paddling for a while and taking photos we washed our feet and put our footwear back on.

From the beach we had spotted the Skypoint and decided to have a look. Paying the entrance fee we were whisked up the seventy seven floors in moments. As usual with these viewing platforms the panorama was spectacular. Having spent some time admiring the view we decided to have a coffee, well we paid to come up and the seats looked very comfortable. Well the teenagers sleeping on one looked comfortable anyway. After coffee we descended and jumped the tram to Australia Fair Shopping Mall. After window shopping we returned to our camper for an afternoon siesta.

In the evening we walked to the restaurant area and finding a Bavarian themed establishment we tucked into wiener schnitzel with sauerkraut followed by apfel strudel and coffee. With the sun set the temperature had dropped to a comfortable level and we walked back watching the bats fly above us

Monday 14th September 2015

After a good nights sleep it was time to hit the road again. Driving out through Surfers Paradise we turned south again. An hour later we were at Byron Bay and the point on the Australian main land that is furthest east. Turning inland we battled through the thirty five kilometres of twisty roads and arrived at Tenterfield NSW where we stopped for lunch.

After eating we filled our fuel tank using the reserve jerrycans we have been carrying since Sydney, we will not be far enough from civilisation from now on to need the extra range. Continuing towards our planned camp site we turned on to single track roads and eventually came to the turn off, only to find a gate across the road. Unsure what to do we turned around and found another route in. Again we arrived at a gate but this time we could see the road the other side of the gate had a road name sign.

Opening the gate and closeing it behind us we were on our way again. After six kilometres and three more gates without a single National Park sign we were starting to worry. The track conditions got worse and worse until turning a bend and dropping over a crest we were faced with a final gate with a sign stating that it was a dog fence. Fortunately through the gate and down the very steep hill we could see a National Park Sign.



With our confidence boosted we got through the gate and down the hill then up an even rougher hill to find our camp spot.

Finally we set up camp and went for a walk to find the waterfall. As we walked Jackie spotted a four foot long goanna climbing a tree, stopping to photograph him we then returned to cook dinner and settle in for the night.

Tuesday 15th September 2015

After a restful night we packed up and moved on. Retracing our route back through the gates and out onto the New England Highway we stopped in Tenterfield for shopping and fuel. Continuing south we swung towards the ocean again. Rolling along on the twisting road we rounded a bend and saw a shape waddling across the road, taking evasive action by crossing onto the wrong side of the road and using the gravel shoulder we missed the echidna. We saw him clear the road behind us but couldn't stop as there wasn't a safe place to park, so no photos.

Dropping out of the Great Dividing Range and free of the twisty roads we emerged onto the Pacific Highway hoping to make good time as we still had a long way to go. Unfortunately the government is upgrading the highway to motorway standard, whilst this is good news for the future, It's bad news for us due to the fifty kilometres at 60 and 80 kph.

Finally turning off the highway we found the track leading to our nights stop. Splashing through the creek we found the park registration point and paid our camping fee in the honesty box. Placing the stub from the payment envelope on our windscreen we found a suitable pitch. We were welcomed by a mob of kangaroos and a flock of magpies.

After setting up camp we took a walk on the beach as this will be our last night camping by a beach this trip. Back at the camp we cooked steak for dinner and had it with caesar salad and a couple of drinks as the sun set.

Wednesday 16th September 2015

Leaving this morning was hard as that was our last night by a beach this trip. Our next two nights are in the mountains. Stopping in the first town we came to we planned our route for the day. Getting off of the Pacific Highway and it's road works was a relief.

Unfortunately Martin had underestimated the amount of fuel we would need. Normally at 100kph we get 500km out of a tank of diesel and with half a tank we should have been able to do at least 200km. However after only 90km of very twisty and hilly roads, grinding up hill in second gear the fuel reserve warning light came on. There was no way that we would make it to the next town 60km away.

Then out of nowhere a sign appeared nailed onto a tree "Gingers Roadhouse 10km", underneath "Closed Tuesdays". After a short panic that today might be Tuesday we pulled into the roadhouse. Fortunately it is Wednesday and a short time later full of the second most expensive fuel this trip we continued on.

Arriving in Tamworth we grabbed lunch and some free wifi. Then it was back out of town and the half hour drive to our night stop. Pulling into the Teamsters Rest Area we found we had it all to ourselves. Picking a flat area we set up camp and then took a stroll around the area looking for wildlife. Spotting Galahs, Sulphurs, Maggies and Ibis we were about to give up when we found a group of parrots, so we spent some time watching them feed. Finally returning to the camper for dinner and bed. Dropping off to sleep to the sound of cicadas and Bob, well that's what he kept saying all night.
Bob, bob, bob

Thursday 17th September 2015

Well Bob kept it up all night, although be was noticeably slower and quieter this morning. Packing up we left the camp site and headed back in towards Tamworth following the directions of our tomtom. After a couple of kilometres, we noticed a side road with a sign for a town we had seen on the main road when we had been planning last night. Following tomtom it will take over an hour to reach that town and the sign shows 35 km, that is about 20 minutes driving. After a short discussion we turned off the main road and then saw the river crossing "Open" sign. Oh well that's good.

The gravel road climbed, twisting into the hills with no edge protection and corrugations on every corner. This made for a very interesting drive. The river crossing was a single lane rickety bridge with masive pot holes at either end, but we crossed without incident. Joining the main road again we had shaved over three quarters of an hour off of our driving time for today.

Having stopped for coffee we arrived at the access road into our camp, single lane again dropping down into the valley. When we reached the National Park we found the camping area but splashed through the river to the more secluded area. Setting up camp for the last time we enjoyed the thirty or so kangaroos and wallabies feeding in the clearing.

After dark we went for a walk looking for wombats and possums without any luck, although we could hear lots of movement in the bush. Maybe later or in the morning, so we got ready for our last night camping.

Late at night there came a knocking at our door followed by the sound of movement on the outside kitchen bench and a twang on the steel cable supporting it..

Think we have visitors, Possums !

It's just as well that we always tidy and put everything away before bed. After a while we went out and with the light from our head torches we found two possums just looking at us as if to say "Who us". After watching them for a while we went back to bed and tried to ignore the sound on the roof as we slept.



Friday 18th September 2015

Awake at half six and outside for breakfast. Having laid the table for our last bush breakie, we were waiting for the kettle to boil and pottering about when there was a jingle from the table. A magpie had swooped out of a tree and stolen some of Martin's weetbix and taken off again before we even knew be was there. The jingle was the spoon rattling in the bowl as he left. The animals here have seen so many campers they known the routine and are not afraid.

We spent the next hour packing and cleaning the camper as we have to return it this afternoon. Leaving this last camp we drove the last two hours through the Blue Mountains into Sydney, stopping only to jet wash the dirt and bugs off the camper. Arriving in Darling Harbour we checked in to our hotel and left our bags before battling through the traffic and returning the camper.

Buying two Opal cards (Oyster in London) we rode the train and light railway back to the hotel. Showered and in clean clothes we went out for the night. Walking around Darling Harbour we jumped on a ferry to Circular Quay using our Opal cards. We strolled down to the Opera House and enjoyed the night view over the harbour through the bridge to Luna Park. Returning to the ferry we rode back to Darling Harbour and found a restaurant for dinner.

Back in the hotel we settled down because we have to be awake for the starting match in the rugby world cup, England v Fiji.

Saturday 19th September 2015

After watching the rugby we had a lazy morning before checking out. With three hours to spare we found the "Australia Museum" and decided to spend some time looking at the exhibits. After a quick coffee we collected our hire car and drove out of town. We are spending the last four days of our holiday catching up with family and friends.

We have had a fantastic time camping in the Australian outback and meeting the people and animals.

Thank you for reading our blog.

Martin and Jackie.