Saturday 22nd October 2011
After 3 months of research The itinerary is sorted, now to book it up.
Only nine flights - London, Amsterdam, Lima, Hanga Roa, Lima, Cusco, Puerto Maldonado, Lima, Amsterdam, London.
Monday 7th November 2011
Holiday booked. Flights and deposit paid.
Saturday 19th November 2011
Sorted out editing web site on my android pad.
Monday 9th January 2012
Final payment made we are all set :-)
Monday 27th February 2012
Travel Clinic for Yellow Fever & Tetenus Injections.(Tetenus really hurt).
Tuesday 13th March 2012
Travel Clinic for Typhoid Injections.
Wednesday 11th April 2012
Longhaul seats selected and advance passenger info supplied.
Bags packed ready to go :-)
Friday 13th April 2012
Home
Flying out today on KLM from Terminal Four Heathrow Airport. Departure time 08:40 to Shipol. Then Shipol to Lima, arriving in Lima at 18:10 local time (23:10 UK time).
Leaving home at five o'clock the traffic was light and we made good time to Heathrow, parking in the long term car park right next to the bus stop. Brrrr chilly but only a couple of minutes to wait for the transfer bus. Self service check in and through security for a well earned breakfast.
Our flight left on time and we had the over wing exit row with extra leg room. Jackie struck lucky again because it is only 75 min flying time. Why is that lucky? - because Jackie was sat next to a lady who didn't know what deoderant was or how to keep her elbows to herself Lol.
Arriving at Schipol (Amsterdam) we wandered through the shops and then joined the security check queue. Oooo whole body scanners, stand with your feet on the marks and raise your hands. Zip zip and step out. The display on the scanner shows any area that needs a physical search. I like the diplay on the scanner it makes me look slim :-)
Woody wrote on the wall of inspiration and we snapped a quick photo of him with his handywork. So "We're going on a bear hunt are we?"
After four hours the couple behind us whinged about the lack of leg room. There were extra leg room seats available at an extra cost but instead of paying for them they wanted us to spend the remaining six hours of the flight with our seats fully upright. Fat chance, although we raised our seats slightly to ease their problem. If they Moan again stand by. Apart from the maoners behind "accidentally" banging our seats occasionally the rest of the flight went smoothly and we landed at Lima airport on time. Through passport control we collected our case then it was customs.
We handed over our declaration form and the officer said "Press the button", so Jackie did and after a few seconds a green light came on and we were waved through without a search.
In the arrivals hall we spotted a lady holding up a sign with our names on so we went over. She arranged the transport and we had a guided tour through Lima. It was very interesting but after traveling for twenty hours we didn't take any of it in, shame really. At our hotel (The San Agustin Colonial) we checked in and collected our voucher for various excursions and after a light dinner and a complementary drink (sours - taste like joke sweets and soap) we retired to bed.
Saturday 14th April 2012
Lima Peru
The traffic only woke us a few times through the night, the Lima drivers are only second to Cairo in their love of the horn. After a good nights sleep we got up and enjoyed a continental breakfast before booking our transport to the airport tonight.
Leaving the hotel we wandered into the area of Miraflores. Passing through a few nice parks we noticed a large number of cats sitting around or stalking the birds. We have been told that the locals all bring their cats to the park for the day at the weekend to keep the number of mice and rats down. All the parks are well looked after. We followed a road to the coast and had coffee and lunch overlooking the Pacific before strolling back to the hotel (Well we would have looked out over the Pacific if the mist blowing in off the sea hadn't blocked the view.)
After spending the afternoon resting we packed and went down to check out and wait for our transport to the airport. The taxi arrived and by 10:15pm we were at the airport and the driver asked for us to pay the fare. Hmmm small problem as we had already paid the hotel. It took five minutes standing in the taxi rank while the driver phoned the hotel to sort it out. :-)
Taking off on time we settled down for the night only to be given four different immigration forms to complete. It looks like the paperwork will take longer than the journey tonight lol.
Sunday 15th April 2012
Rapa Nui
We landed at six o'clock in the morning local time after an all night flight.
We were so early that the border Sniffer dog was still asleep, however as soon as the baggage belt started his tail started wagging (Play time).
Having completed the paperwork we were out of the terminal and looking for our meeter. It took time with the number of people but we found our guide. We were presented with garlands of yellow flowers and then we walked to the car. Ooops new small problem the car wouldn't unlock.
The lady driver eventually sorted it out and we drove the short distance to the hotel. Checking in we were allowed to go straight to our room even though it was so early. A very pleasant surprise as we thought we would have to wait.
A shower and snooze later at ten we went for a walk. Down through town to the coast. Looked at our first Moai (stone head) and found a cafe for a coffee stop. Whilst sipping our coffee and watching the island go by we saw, first a scooter with a child riding pillion and a toddler sat on the drivers knee. If that wasn't supprising enough the next piece of traffic was a horse and rider, one child sitting behind the rider a second standing in a bucket tied to the saddle.
After this rush hour we strolled back to the hotel, we will achieve more tomorrow as a most things are closed as it is Sunday. Later we walked into town for dinner c the kids playing football on the field whilst the groundsman was trying to mark the lines for a match tonight. With the sun setting over the Pacific it was time to go back to the hotel for a proper nights sleep in a real bed :-)
Monday 16th April 2012
Rapa Nui
After a wonderful nights sleep we enjoyed breakfast and then walked into town and hired a Suzuki Jimny for the day only 40,000 Chilean Pesos, a bargin. Dropping into a local shop we brought two large bottles of water, two filled rolls, some crisps, cake and a pasty / pie thing. As we were walking back to the car someone grabbed Jackie's hand from behind which made her jump. It was alright though as it was the Rapa Nuian lady who works in the hotel, we all had a good laugh and said good d.
We set off to drive around the island and see the Moai. The first half of the drive was on tarmac roads and we had to slow down regularly as we passed horses and cows on the road. We saw loads of Moai and were amazed that they cut them out of the rock, moved them and stood them up in rows on platforms, and then put hats on them.
After lunch the roads became rougher until we were down to walking pace negotiating the rocks and holes in the gravel road. We haven't seen roads like this since Oz. At three o'clock we stopped for our cake break before bouncing onwards.
At four o'clock we arrived back in town and drove through and out past the airport to drive up Rano Kau volcano to see where the birdmen had competed. Then back to the hotel for a nice shower and relax before dinner.
Down town for dinner we found a nice restaurant with a balcony overlooking the small harbour of Hanga Roa. We are our dinner watching the surfers out on the waves until sunset then drove back to the hotel.
As we walked to our room we spent some time star gazing as the sky was clear. More stars than at home but not as many as the Australian outback. Time for bed ready for another busy day.
Tueday 17th April 2012
Rapa Nui
On Rapa Nui time so breakfast doesn't start til eight thirty, so a slow start to the morning. Things to do this morning fuel and return the hire car then stop at the ATM to get some more cash. At the bank computer says "NO! - Illegal transaction". "Oh bother" or words to that effect. Back to the hotel and use wifi connection to message bank "I need my card to work".
No point expecting a fast reply so we strolled through town and down to the coast where we watched a ship unloading shipping containers into landing craft using a crane. Whilst chilling out we came up with another plan to get cash. We found a different bank and using a card from our second account, this time it worked. To celebrate we found a cafe and had a nice lunch.
After lunch we went to the local market. Inside there were stalls selling souvenirs next to stalls selling fresh fruit and vedge. Outside there were fish and meat stalls, well pickup trucks really. On the tailgate of one pickup truck a stall holder was cutting a lump of meat from a cow with a wood saw, whilst the customer watched and haggled over the price. We brought a couple of small souvenirs from the stalls inside.
Wandering back down to the sea front we enjoyed a nice coffee and an icecream sitting in the shade by the harbour, watching the boats come and go. Later we returned to the hotel for a well earned seista before dinner.
My but life is tough :-) . During dinner we watched the sun dipping to the horizon out to sea. So just before sunset Martin left the restaurant and walked down the sea front for a photo opertunity of the sun setting out to sea behind a moai. Then returned to the table in time for pudding.
Wednesday 18th April 2012
Rapa Nui
Last day on Easter Island so last minute shopping and then repack the bags to flight mode ready to travel. Lunch, coffee and ice cream before the transfer to the airport. Five hour flight back to Lima Peru.
On landing we got through immigration and collected our bag. Because we had brought feathers on Rapa Nui we ticked the customs form to indicate we had animal products. Expecting to get our bags searched and have the feathers checked, we were surprised when the man on the barrier just took our form and without looking at it waived us through.
The taxi to the hotel was interesting. Fortunately we have been to this hotel before because Pedro the driver took us to the wrong one, talking all the way. Although we couldn't understand much of what he was saying we couldn't get a word in edgeways. When we finaly got him to look at the map that showed where the hotel was he laughed and said "Guided city tour". Normally a nice idea but at midnight not what we needed.
Thursday 19th April 2012
Lima Peru
After seven hours sleep we got up for breakfast. There was deep fried battered broccoli in the ban-mari. Where did that idea come from?
A short walk took us to the ATM for some Peruvian Sol as the bank had emailed me to let me know that my card was OK. Then the supermarket for water and snacks for the bus this afternoon, and then stroll back to the hotel.
At twelve o'clock we checked out and waited in the lobby for our transport to the Cruz Del Sur bus depot. The driver picked us up and when we got to the bus station he came in and showed us where to check in. After we dropped our luggage we found our seats on the bus upstairs.
When we had been on the road for half an hour and were out of town the staff served lunch. The roads are not smooth and the bus's suspension is quite soft. Martin's food tray slid off his table and went everywhere. Fortunately he had finished eating so it wasn't too messy.
After food we were offered drinks so we asked for coffee. Not a good move as the coffee came in a styrofoam cup without a lid. We had to concentrate very hard to avoid a lap full of scalding coffee. Driving south down the coast with the Pacific on our right and high sand dunes on our left the sea fog rolling across the road we have four more hours to Ica.
Oh no the bloke in the row of seats in front of us has woken up and must be some sort of Jehovas Witness or similar cost he hasn't stopped banging on about religion to his traveling companion for half and hour. Just my luck. Good news it's only two hours to Ica.
Getting off the bus in Ica we grabbed a taxi, asking the price before we got in ten Sol (£2.50) to the hotel. Of we go cutting through traffic driving on the dirt verge / pavement out of town and into the desert. Arriving at the Huacachina oasis we checked Into our hotel and grabbed dinner having done some washing and had an evening stroll. We are up early in the morning for a boat trip.
Friday 20th April 2012
Ica
Up early for breakfast, we were going on a tour today and being picked up at six o'clock. In the people carrier for a round of hotels and then an hour and fifteen minutes drive to Paracas where we boarded the boat.
We were one of the last to arrive and had to sit right at the front. Just like being back in school everyone else had filled the back rows. Putting on our lifejackets we set off out of the harbour and around the headland. First stop a geoglyph (big carving in the ground) called The Candellabra. We have seen it in books and documentaries so it's nice to see it up close.
Then a fifteen minutes motor over slightly rough seas to Islas Ballestas. These islands are known as the poor mans Galapagos there are hundreds of thousands of sea birds, seals, sea lions and penguins on the island. The smell of guano is quite strong downwind causing a few passengers to cover their noses. We moved slowly around the islands photographing anything that moved and a few that didn't.
After half an hour we motored back to the dock for the drive back to the hotel. Lunch over we decided to book on a dune buggy ride.
After a while we stopped for a photo shoot and the driver pulled snowboards and a candle out from the rear of the buggy. Martin decided to make a fool of himself and have a go. OMG LOL. He's still getting the sand out of places he didn't know he had.
After driving around and visiting another oasis we stopped on the top of a dune for sunset, wow spectacular. Just time for dinner, shower and bed after a hectic day.
Saturday 21st April 2012
Ica
Moving on today so a nice lazy start wandering down for breakfast at half eight. Repack the bags and then wander around the oasis before returning to the hotel to check out. Leaving our bags in reception we chiled by the pool with a cool pineapple juice before making our g to the Cruz Del Sur bus station for our six o'clock bus to Nazca.
Getting into town in a taxi was simple before we got both feet out of the hotel a taxi had seen us and beeping his horn swung to a stop.
We checked our luggage at the bus station and walked into Ica town centre. Finding our way through the crowds and stalls we found a bank to get some cash, then sat in the central square in the shade for a while, watching people.
After a while we walked to the local church just avoiding being run over by a tuctuc, Martin gave it a kick as it went past. At the church we saw families coming out after confirmation, with the little darlings in their best dresses / suits. At half five we wandered back to the bus station to catch our bus.
Six o'clock came and went - no bus, oh well we are in Peru - manyana. At seven thirty our bus arrived from Lima delayed by traffic. We boarded and left very quickly for the two hour trip to Nazca. We have looked on the internet and our hotel is only a few hundred yards from the bus station so we will not need a taxi.
We found our hotel thanks to the internet research we had done, we bluffed our way out or the back enterance of the bus depot and turned right and our hotel was about a hundred yards down the road. We checked in and negotiated a late checkout as our bus tomorrow night doesn't leave til ten o'clock.
Sunday 22nd April 2012
Nazca
Getting up this morning we decided to be naughty tourists and to ignore all the travel advice and take a scenic flight over the Nazca lines. We were picked up from our hotel and driven out to the airport. After regestering and being weighed ( good news we haven't put on much weight) we watched a video before boarding our Cessna 206. As we were walking out there was a Japanese tourist being sick beside the plane she had just got out of. After taking off and a short transit we were doing steep turns left and right so both sides of the plane got a good chance to see and photograph the geoglyphs. A superb view of the better known geoglyphs although hot inside the plane and bumpy due to turbulance. A short while later we landed and were driven back to the hotel.
Straight back out to find some lunch. We came to the local market, local not tourist, fruit, vedge, meat etc. We found a cafe and had a traditional Peruvian chicken dish, very tasty. Walking back to the hotel we checked out the bus station front entrance. Back at the hotel we have an hour and a half before we go out again on a tour.
We were again picked up from the hotel and driven out to a pre-incan cemetary. Walking around the site with a dozen mummy's still in their tombs was eerie but very interesting. Then we drove back into town to visit a ceramic workshop and a display of gold extraction.
Back at the hotel relaxing at seven o'clock the phone rang and a voice said "checkout at seven". We said we had booked the room until nine. The voice said "checkout at eight then". We stuck to our guns and refused to change the time.
Checking out at nine o'clock we walked to the bus depot to catch the night bus to Arequipa.
Arriving at the bus station we checked our luggage in and sat in a covered area outside next to the bus park. With all the baggage loaded except ours the boarding was called as we walked past the loaders Jackie suggested that they put ours on so she could relax.
Only the security search on the carry on bags to go. Martin's got opened and the guard pulled Woody Bear out much to the amusement of the people in the queue. Martins response was"Well I can't sleep without my bear" caused even more amusement. We settled into our seats for the nine hour overnight trip.
Monday 23rd April 2012
On the Cruz Del Sur to Arequipa
We managed a few hours sleep on the bus. Waking at dawn and watching the sun rise over the Altiplano (Spanish for high plain) was breath taking. We would have liked to stop for some photos but the bus is on a timetabe and wouldn't stop.
Arriving in Arequipa after a nine and a half hour trip Jackie was first off the bus to find the ladies loo. We collected our luggage and walked out of the bus station to be met by the usual taxi managers. As our hotel is quite a distance from the bus station. We told the man where we wanted to go and he told a taxi driver.
We drove into town and pulled up at the wrong hotel. Explain again to the taxi driver (who didn't speak English) by pointing the the location of the hotel on a map and repeating the road name, off we go again to stop at another wrong hotel. The taxi driver walked of and came back with two big blokes (oh no could be trouble), we explained again where we wanted to go and the two blokes told the taxi driver who apologised and finaly took us to the right hotel.
In the hotel we sorted ourselves out, Jackie found that when she opened her ball deoderant the change in pressure popped the ball out. Having reasembled various personal hygene products we went out for a late breakfast. After breakfast, walking slowly back to the hotel (it's surprising the effect of 3000 feet of altitude when you are not used to it ) we browsed the tourist shops and markets. After an afternoon siesta we went out for dinner trying another local dish before returning to the hotel via a supermarket to get some essential supplies. We were back in our room early as we have another early start in the morning.
Tueday 24th April 2012
Arequipa
Up at six o'clock showered and down for a light breakfast and a cup of coca tea. Bags packed and ready to leave by seven thirty. At seven thirty on the dot our guide Matrina arrived and we boarded a 13 seater minibus. Stopping at another hotel we were all on board. Our guide, the driver, us, a Columbia couple and a German couple, so the was plenty of space to travel in comfort.
Half way out of town we stopped at a little shop were we were recommended to buy water, chocolate and coca leaves (illegal in the UK due to being the source of cocaine). With our purchases we reboarded the bus and we were off to the Colca Canyon. We had previously been told that coca is quite strong and to use one leaf infused in boiling water to make a tea. Our guide had other ideas. We were to use 15 leaves and she demonstrated how to roll and chew coca.
All six of us gingerly rolled and chewed our coca. It tastes like privet hedge and you have to chew it and then hold it in between your cheek and gum for fifteen minutes. The faces we pulled made the guide laugh out loud. As protection from altitude sicknass it had to be done. After ten minutes our mouths went numb and then our noses. This enables you to breath the thinner air and prevents the headaches and nausea of mild altitude sickness. Severe altitude sickness in FATAL.
We stopped to photograph some alpaca roaming beside the road and Jackie saw a pink flamingo. Not sure if that was what it was she asked our guide. The guide said "No, not normally" then with open mouth said " Yes that is a flamingo and I have never seen one up here before. Continuing on the minibus climbed the mountain to a cafe stop at 4225 metres. Where we had a drink called triple tea which included chachacoma, muna and more coca. Just as we were leaving some sheep wandered from behind the cafe, shortly afterwards a ginger cat jumped down from the roof. Much to our amazement the cat started herding the sheep, no this was not a side effect of the coca because we all saw it even the driver who was sober. Driving on we chewed more coca as we were to continue climbing to the highest point (Chucura Volcano) at 4910 metres. We were amazed to find local ladies selling alpaca goods. We left a offering to mother earth of coca leaves under a cairn of stones as is traditional. As we walked back to the bus it snowed quite heavily, and we were glad to be back in the bus but sorry for the ladies left at the top of the volcano.
From here to Chivay it was all down hill through numerous hairpin bends into the canyon for lunch at a local hotel. Pulling up we were surprised by the guard llama waiting at the front door. We managed to get in only to be followed in by the llama. After a nice lunch of alpaca we went for a hike up the canyon. Small problem - how to get past the guard llama who would spit at anyone who got to close. Figuring out that he would follow if led by his lead Martin bravely moved the hissing spitting monster clear of the door so everyone could get out.
The hike up the canyon was extremely hard going as we were struggling to get sufficient oxygen in the high altitude and were walking like astronauts on the moon but the view was worth the effort. Back at the bus we drove to our hotel to check in and the back on the bus for a short trip to the thermal baths. The water temperature was at 39°C lovely and relaxing after a hectic day. We soaked for about an hour before returning to our hotel for dinner and bed.
Wednesday 25th April 2012
Chivay
Another early start this morning, we had our alarm set for five fifteen and were up and showered when there was a knock on the door. It was the hotel with an early morning call arranged by the tour guide. Obviously they have had problems with people oversleeping before.
On the bus for the three hour trip to the place of the condors. On the way we stopped for some scenic views. The road deteriorated and then went through a 400 metre tunnel with bare rock walls, sand floor and no lights. The air was full of dust and the headlights couldn't penetrate more than ten metres. It was nice to see the light at the end of the tunnel and emerge into daylight. This tunnel would prove to be a problem later. Arriving at the condor viewing point high up on the canyon wall it wasn't long before Martin spotted a condor deep down in the canyon. Shortly after we had groups and single condors spiraling up on the thermals in front of us and above us. We got some supurb photos as they circled over our heads and departed.
Driving back down the canyon towards Chivay we were nearing the tunnel from earlier when we came around a corner to find rocks laid across the road with a couple of red flags. The road was closed at the tunnel due to an avalanche. We turned off g road into what looked like a lay by, only it wasn't it was a track descending into the canyon. We drove slowly down the very rough track with steep walls to one side and a sheer drop the other. It was like an episode of IRT Worlds Dangerous Roads - Peru. When we arrived at the river we crossed a dodgy looking bridge and started ascending the other side.
After ten minutes we came across a minibus sideways across the muddy road, stuck. We all got out of our minibus to help and when a local turned up with a spade tied on his donkey we could dig out the bogged in minibus. While we were digging we were passed by various cows, sheep, goats and locals. After a lot of pushing and shoving we freed the other vehicle. Our driver then went back to get ours and while he was gone the other minibus loaded up and left. What a bunch of gits didn't even wait to see if we got through, no thanks to them we did. We drove along the rough track for an hour before comming to another rough looking bridge. Shortly after crossing this time we were back in Chivay for a swift lunch before saying goodbye to our guide and driver. Then it was time to board the bus for the seven hour trip to Puno.
The guide was a bit bossy so us and the Columbian couple took great delight in not doing what she wanted. When we stopped for a snack at a cafe she told us we all had to go inside and sit down. So we took our triple leaf teas and went outside to enjoy the view. Arriving in Puno at seven we were collected from the bus station and taken to our hotel for the night and another early start tomorrow.
Thursday 26th April 2012
Puno
Up at half five for breakfast and ready for pickup by six thirty for our boat trip on Lake Titicaca. At six thirty a minibus pulled up opposite our hotel and we watched the driver using his mobile phone. Half an hour later he walked across the road and waved to us. Quarter of an hour late we set off to pick up other passengers from their hotels. Arriving at the dock we boarded our boat and after ramming the dock the boat finaly left Puno moving out onto Lake Titicaca.
Then it was back down to the square for the craft market before beginning the longer walk around the island to where the boat had moved to. The return boat trip took three hours then a minibus transfer to our hotel. It was half past six so we dumped our bag and walked into town to find an ATM and get dinner. Returning to our hotel later we were repacking our bags for Fridays bus to Cusco when the phone rang. There was someone from the tour company waiting to see us in the lobby so Martin went down to find out what they wanted.
The tour rep wanted to know if we enjoyed our trip and could we fill in the feedback form please. Having done that she then asked about our bus tickets for tomorrow.
Then the bombshell, there was going to be a strike in Juliaca (The first large town between Puno a and Cusco with no available diversion) tomorrow and the bus would be unlikely to get through, however there was a bus leaving at nine thirty tonight if we would like to go on that. To catch it we would have to be at the bus station by nine p.m. and it was seven fortyfive now. We agreed to go tonight and the rep left we quickly finished packing and went to the hotel lobby to get a taxi. At that moment a thunder storm hit and the lightning was lighting up the road outside the hotel. The taxi arrived at the same time as the hail and we scampered into the taxi.
Arriving at the bus station we found the ticket desk and changed our reservations and found a couple of seats. We spent the time before boarding the bus watching people queing at the ticket desk as news of the strike got round. Boarding the bus we settled in for the seven hour night transit to Cusco.
Friday 27th April 2012
On the TourPeru bus to Cusco
After a long night we arrived in Cusco bus station and collected our baggage. It was half four a.m. so we sat in the bus station and collected our thoughts. We could check in to our hotel today and they are used to people arriving at odd hours so we would go straight to our hotel. Finding a taxi was easy and we asked how much and were told 10 sol. We got in and as we were driving the driver said it was ten sol each. We both said NO at the same time and we would only pay ten sol total. The driver said OK he had miss-understood, it probably works on sleepy tourist sometimes. Not this time. Arriving at our hotel we checked in, found our room and went to bed.
We woke again at nine a.m. and after showering, we set out to visit an Inca site of Sacsayhuman (pronounced - Sexywoman lol). As the site is at the top of a very steep hill we grabbed a taxi and were dropped of at the entrance. We were immediately hassled by numerous guides who wanted to show us around for a price. We refused them all as we wanted to enjoy the site in peace and make up our own minds about the hows and whys. This place is special the skills of the builders was outstanding. The way such massive blocks of stone are fitted together with no gap is amazing.
Walking down the hill wasn't too hard and we arrived in the central square for lunch and found a cafe with a balcony overlooking the square. After a light lunch we slogged back up the hill to our hotel.
We spent the afternoon in the hotel garden before walking into town to find dinner a traditional Puruvian dish Cuy (Guinea Pig).
Saturday 28th April 2012
Cusco
Our first an only quit day of this holiday, so a lazy breakfast before walking into town for shopping and coffee. After a full morning retail therapy for Jackie in the afternoon we visited the Inca museum, lots of Inca and Spanish artifacts. I suppose the other attraction was it was cool ( I mean not hot rather than trendy lol).
Sunday 29th April 2012
Cusco
Another early start off on a trip to the Sacred Valley. The views were stunning as we dropped into the valley and the buffet lunch was very nice. In the afternoon we arrived in Ollantaytambo and checked out the market and rail station for tomorrow before finding our hotel for the night.
Monday 30th April 2012
Ollantaytambo
Checking out of the hotel this morning we left our bag at reception and went for a walk as our train didn't leave until one o'clock. We got to the Incan fortress and decided to climb. 250 uneven steps later we were at the top with a fantastic view down the valley. Then we followed the "path" around the hill. The path was four feet wide with a two foot high curb between us and a long drop to the valley floor. If that wasn't bad enough as we rounded the corner the flat path became uneven rock and even the curb dissapeared.
After looking at the ancient ruins we made the long descent to the valley floor. Looking around we saw the Incan irrigation system still functioning. Unfortunately all the sounds of running water had it's usual effect and we hastily found the Loos.
Walking to the train station via the hotel didn't take long and we were soon on the train for the two hour trip to Aguas Calientas. This is just a short bus ride from Macha Pichu. After wandering around the market and enjoying the view of the very fast river with its bridges we returned to the hotel for the night.
Tuesday 1st May 2012
Aguas Calientas
We woke early at four o,clock and decided to get up and go. Checking out of the hotel but leaving our bags we walked down to the bus station. We arrived at about four thirty and the queue had started already. We took our place and waited for the first bus at half five. There were some french girls in the queue sitting on the floor with their backs to the wall when a scruffy brown dog limped over and sat down right next to them, much to their horror. They moved away and the dog took what was obviously its normal spot.
Right on time we loaded on the bus and started the half hour winding bumpy trip up the switchbacks to Machu Picchu. Arriving at the top we had our tickets checked and we were in. After entering we started climbing uneven stone steps. We soon found ourselves on the edge of a very long drop but were unable to see anything as we were in the cloud.
We sat and enjoyed the view through breaks in the cloud for a while before descending into the centre of town. We spent the next three hours wandering around looking at all the buildings and llamas they were grazing. We noticed that the cloud as breaking up and slogged back up to the guardroom at the highest point just in time for the cloud and fog to lift. What a fantastic sight. We have seen hundreds of pictures of this scene but they don't do it justice the vista is breathtaking.
As we sat happily eating bacon and eggs the rain started falling, oh dear all those people who enjoyed a lazy start and breakfast before taking that bus up are going to get wet and miss the view.
Having coffee by the railway we watched trains and locos passing within feet of where we were sitting. Later we collected our luggage and went to the train station to catch our train.
Boarding the train we had a four hour trip back to Cusco for the night
Wednesday 2nd May 2012
Cusco
Having repacked the bags we checked out of our hotel for the short flight to Puerto Maldonado. Arriving at the airport with plenty of spare time we uploaded the web page and some photographs. We were waiting at the gate for our aircraft when they announced boarding but there was no aircraft so we played runaround the gates to find it. Eventually we found the right gate, presented our boarding passes and commented on the gate change. Ten seconds later we heard the announcement of the gate change as we walked down the airbridge.
Landing at Porto Maldanado we collected our bags and were met by local tribes people, loaded on to a bus and taken to the office. There was time to repack bags and indicate which would come with us and what could remain in the office until our return from the jungle.
We boarded the bus for the drive to the river where we boarded a motorised canoe. As the canoe moved upstream we were given a leaf tied into a bundle with a piece of vine. This was lunch, opening the leaf we discovered savory chicken and rice which we ate as we watched the river bank glide past.
After an hour we arrived at the drop off. The boat grounded on a muddy bank and a plank was placed between the bow of the canoe and the bank. One at a time we crossed the plank and climbed the rough wooden steps that lead up the bank. Than a ten minute hike through the jungle brought us to a clearing with our lodge.
After a quick briefing we were off into the jungle for a fifteen minute fast hike to the tower (120 feet) at the top we looked out over the rain forest canopy as the sun set. Climbing down we walked back to the lodge in the dark. At the lodge it was time for a drink and dinner. You can guess how sad Jackie was when she was told that they only sell wine by the bottle! After dinner we settled down for sleep by the light of parafin lamps and candles (There is only electricity for four hours in the day to charge camera batteries). We slept the night under our mozzie net to the sound of circadas, bats, monkeys and birds calling.
Thursday 3rd May 2012
Amazonias Lodge, Tambota River
Woke at four o'clock this morning, five minutes before our guide from the Manu tribe knocked on our wall. Why did she knock on the wall? Because we do not have a door. Come to mention it we do not have a full set of walls either as our room is open to the rain forest. Electric lighting is also absent except in the dining room (again the walls are missing).
After a quick breakfast it was time for a fast hike down to the river and a fifteen minute canoe ride. Disembarking we had a five kilometer trek to reach a lake. Here a catameran (two canoes with a platform between them) was tied up. Once aboard our guide sculled it out onto the lake and we soon spotted our target, giant river otters. The previous group had only seen them in the distance. We drifted to the bank sitting very quiet and the otters worked their way around the lake towards us. We got a fantastic view of them as they moved past us fishing as they went.
Once they had move off and we wouldn't disturb them we moved around the lake stopping for a spot of parana fishing (or feeding as most of us managed). Then we were back at the point we boarded and walked the 5 km back to the river.
After a brief rest we walked to a hide where we sat and waited to see some macaws. Another group who were with us kept moving around and talking, this frightened the birds so they stayed out of our sight. After an hour the other group gave up and left, we only had half an hour before we had to leave to get back for lunch. Sitting silently we waited listening to the macaws squarking away above us. Twenty minutes later the birds descended and started licking the clay of the river bank. We had ten minutes to get our photos before leaving. On the return trip we saw tamarins in the trees above us.
We arrived back just in time for the last of lunch and had great delight in showing the other group what they missed. At three o'clock we were back on the canoe for a trip to the local sharman (wiseman / healer). We had an interesting guided tour around the forest with the sharman explaining what each plant was for, then back for a nights sleep.
Friday 4th May 2012
Amazonias Lodge, Tambota River
Five o'clock start today and back to the hide to see parrots this morning. After an hour we heard the birds above us. Three dropped into our sight and we all thought we were in for a good show. Suddenly all the birds took to the air and flew off as fast as they could go, a hawk had spooked them and that was the end of the show so we walked back to the lodge.
On the way back we came across a quail standing in the middle of the track. Our guide was amazed, he has been doing this for twenty years and has only seen glimpses of this bird as they usually hide in dense undergrowth. Feeling happier we returned for breakfast.
Straight after breakfast we went for another long hike and saw a wild tortoise, owls and other birds. When we got to a very large capok tree we stopped for a rest and our guide teased a tarantular spider out of it's hole for us. We arrived back for lunch hot and sweaty.
After lunch we were off to a local farm on the way we spotted capybara sitting in the grass by the river. The farm was interesting with papya, banana and avacado growing. Running around the clearing and following us where ever we went were twenty or so pigglets. Rooting for worms and getting underfoot. Back on the canoe for the return to the lodge we had a couple of hours before dinner and then out for a night walk.
Using head torches we wandered through the dark forest looking for the reflection in animals eyes. We first found a couple of spiders and then having got used to what to look for there were little eyes everywhere. So many insects and spiders looking at us.
Jackie spotted larger eyes up in the trees. After an hour we returned to the lodge and the bar for well deserved drink before bed.
Saturday 5th May 2012
Amazonias Lodge, Tambota River
Leaving today up and pack before a relaxed breakfast. Then a short wait before our canoe back to town to catch our flight to Lima. The flight was delayed for an hour but we still arrived in Lima at a reasonable time. Dinner and bed because it's time to go home tomorrow.
Sunday 6th May 2012
Lima
Check out of the hotel but leave the bags and take stroll round Miraflores suburb of Lima. Lots of roads closed for cars, full of cyclists, runners, skateboarders etc. Around Kennedy park temporary tennis / vollyball courts in use on the roads and even a dance aerobics class going on. At four o'clock we returned to the hotel to collect our cases and take a cab to the airport for our flights home.
Thank you to all those that made this holiday an event to remember for the rest of our lives.