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Thursday 1st January 2009 (New Years Day)
Shell Beach
24°C Sunny

Happy New Year. Four Weeks of touring in the Troopy. Shaking down nicely and ready for the next forty weeks. On the road again north towards our planned stop at Athurton. Leaving the park we spotted a hemu (male emu) and his chicks moving slowly through the marlee scrub. We arrived at Athurton by twelve o’clock. Eating our lunches we realised there would be nothing to do for the nine hours before night as everything (one pub and one shop) was closed. We decided to drive on towards Mt Remarkable National Park just north of Port Pirie.

When we arrived and checked out the camp site we found it to be very nice. Picking our spot we set up home again. As it was still early we went for a 2.5 kilometre walk. The trail was quite rough and narrow but we paced ourselves. While we were walking we came across kangaroo and an emu. We got within ten metres of each as we were down wind and moving slowly. As we walked back we found the hot showers and flushing toilets, all spotlessly clean, hard to call it camping with all these home comforts. It won’t always be this nice. Returning to the Troopy we collected our food and used one of the free gas BBQ’s to cook a steak and salad dinner. We had to persuade the kookaburra to let us have the picnic bench before we could sit down to eat. Before long the sun had set on another wonderful day and it was time for bed.

Friday 2nd January 2009
Mambary Creek
26°C Sunny

Woke bright and early by the sound of bark falling off of the River Red Gum Trees all around us. The ground was littered by bark that had loosened and been knocked off the trees by the wind. We have decided to go shopping in Port Augusta today as it will be the last large town before we cross the Nullabore to Perth. So Showers and clean (go to town) clothes all round, pack up and we are off. Driving up the main highway to Port Augusta at the speed limit we were surprised to be overtaken by a hearse with a coffin and wreaths in closely followed by three cars full of mourners. We know with the heat out here things can go off quickly, but we didn’t think it would require funeral processions to be that fast.

At the shops we quickly filled our list of requirements and then stopped for lunch (Port Augusta = Barnacle Bills). Then a short hours drive to tonight’s stop. Fitzgeralds Bay near Whyalla. Right between the military range and the sea. If you ignore the range the scenery is lovely looking out over the sea. As the sun dropped the wind also dropped and the evening was perfect. Time to make the bed up again.

Saturday 3rd January 2009
Fitzgeralds Bay
32°C Sunny

After a nice stay at Fitzgeralds Bay we drove south to Whyalla and out the other side to pick up the back road to Kimba. After driving along the gravel road for forty Ks we were flagged down by a car and trailer going the other way. “Had we seen a white ute”. We told him we hadn’t seen any vehicles since leaving the tarmac at Whyalla. Turns out he was looking for his wife who was on one of the dirt roads out of Whyalla with two punctured tyres. Thanking us he turned around to try a different road. As we passed we could see a jack and two spare wheels in the trailer. We came across a Bob Tailed Skink and an Eastern Tiger Snake. We stopped and photographed the skink but we stayed in the Troopy and kept moving for the snake.

A short distance later tomtom said we should turn right to Kimba but the road sign said straight on. We decided to follow the road sign, ten Ks later tomtom said turn right and the sign said left. Kimba was north and tomtoms direction would turn us north. Looking at the sign closely we could see that some one had turned it. So we turned right and arrived in Kimba ten minutes later. We stopped at the “Halfway Across Sign” and then shopped before driving up to Whites Knob Lookout for lunch. We then parked in the rest area where we are staying tonight and fixed some extra tracking on the side of the Troopy so we can have the awning on either side as well as the back. We were invited for a drink and a chat by some fellow travellers and spent a nice couple of hours talking before cooking dinner and readying the Troopy for the night.

Sunday 4th January 2009
Kimba
38°C Sunny (very warm)

Woken this morning by road trains crossing the rail level crossing. It’s truly amazing the different things that wake you up when you are touring. Tonight we are staying at a free site at Pildappa Rock. Rather than take the main road then turn north we decided to head north out of Kimba and then head west through the Gawler Range National Park. The tarmac ran out after about 40 Km and we were on nice gravel roads. About 30 Km later the road entered a private Station (ranch) and we passed over cattle grids and wound along the Stations roads.

Arriving at the entrance to the National Park we paid our entry fee in the honesty box. Driving through we were raced by an emu running flat out about 20 metres to the side of the road and parallel to it. At the far side of the park we took a side road to the Organ Pipes. It was a four wheel drive track with several gates and Jackie was kept busy jumping in and out of the Troopy opening and closing them after us. Very similar to the Giants Causeway in Northern Ireland. When we arrived and parked the car for the one kilometre walk we found the nearside rear tyre almost flat. We decided to do the walk and have a picnic lunch at the Organ Pipes and sort out the car when we got back. While we were getting ready a Landcruiser Ute turned up with three occupants. The driver was hunting feral dog and goats for the National Park and had his wife and son with him as it was the school holidays. They had heard us pass and wanted to inform us that they were shooting in the area and not to be alarmed if we heard gunfire. He enquired if we needed any help with the wheel but we had it in hand so they went off searching for the mob of goats they had seen.

This was the time to test some of the equipment we have been buying over the last four weeks. The electric compressor pumped the tyre up with no effort (better than a foot pump in this heat). We located the puncture a piece of branch had pierced the tyre. Using a pair of needle nosed pliers we removed the stick. The tyre patch kit came with a file that you push through the hole a few times to smooth out the hole. Then a strip of soft rubber is treaded in what looks like a large sewing needle with a handle at it’s point. The rubber is covered with rubber solution (like you fix bike tyres with). Then the rubber is pushed two thirds or the way into the tyre with the tool and the tool is pulled out quickly. We then pumped the tyre up with the compressor and were on our way. A very useful piece of kit (As Martins Military training instructor used to say “Good piece of kit, keep it at the top of your pack”).

Driving on to our stop for the night. The Piladappa Rock is like Wave Rock in Western Australia but quieter. We used the free BBQ to cook steak for dinner and enjoyed the solitude after the busy night in Kimba.

Monday 5th January 2009
Pildappa Rock
36°C Sunny

Staying put today as it’s very nice here. At eight o’clock we climbed the rock. As we approached the summit we looked to the south to see low clouds streaming towards us. The temperature which had already risen to 24°C started dropping so we cut our trip short and returned to the Troopy. Ten minutes of cloud and the sun came out again and the temperature started rising again. The two families who stayed over night left by ten o’clock leaving just us. We did some housekeeping chores and enjoyed the scenery. A bob tailed skink put in an appearance and checked out Jackie’s shoe before running between her feet and disappearing.

At lunch time we decided to take our sandwiches and a picnic rug up to the top of the rock. We found a nice spot with a breeze and sat down to our lunch. We didn’t notice the two ladies from Alice Springs who had stopped for a look at the rock on their way home. They laughed and guessed we were English, who else would have a picnic at the top of a rock. Any one else would just stand and eat their sandwiches. Through the day we had a few visitors who would stay and chat for a few minutes before or after climbing the rock. At seven in the evening when it was cooling down we walked around the rock about 1.5 Ks.

We had bacon and a couple of eggs and we had been discussing cooking on the free BBQ. They are stainless steel plates heated from underneath by a gas burner. The plate slopes from the outside to the middle where there is a hole for the fat to run down. The slope and hole would make cooking a fried egg impossible without an egg ring. Jackie had a brilliant idea, “Egg in”. So for dinner tonight we cooked bacon on the BBQ hot plate and baked beans in a foil tray, then we each folded a slice of bread and bit the centre out. Opening the bread gave a slice with a hole in the middle. We fried one side of the bread in the bacon fat and then flipped them over and cracked the eggs into them. It was the nicest meal we have ever had on a BBQ. Bacon, “egg in fried bread” and baked beans, Mmmmm. After cleaning the BBQ for the next person who stays here it was time for bed.

Tuesday 6th January 2009
Pildappa Rock
32°C Sunny

The water in the vehicles tank ran out last night. However we still have 15 litres of drinking water in large containers that we decant into small drinking bottles that will fit in the fridge. The lack of water for washing means it is time to find civilisation, replenish our supplies. So this morning we packed up and left the solitude of Pildappa Rock (we were totally alone last night) and head to Ceduna for a powered caravan site. Arriving at 12 o’clock we found a pitch and straight away, showers, bedding and clothes in washing machine, wash up dinner and breakfast dishes (no water last night so we waited until now), clean down work surfaces and scrub out the fridge in preparation for the shopping this afternoon. Once we were clean it was down to the shops and stock up on provisions and drinking water for the Nullabor. Into a camping shop for a few needed items and a bottle shop for a box of wine.

With everything we need for the crossing we stopped in at the local information centre. We were given a hand drawn map to a couple of caves and a dilapidated old road house on the old Nullarbor road. We have been told that although it is not shown on any map or guide we are allowed to camp in these places as the old roadhouse was owned by the lady in the information centres family before the new road opened. We drove back to the camp site and finished our housekeeping duties before taking a walk along the beach. We walked along the waters edge allowing the waves to wash over our feet. The water feels body temperature and was very relaxing. Then it was time for diner on the BBQ and then back to the Troopy for the night.

Wednesday 7th January 2009
Ceduna
28°C Morning showers, sunny afternoon

After a relaxing night in the caravan park and with the Troopy fully replenished we set off again. Heading west. We have been looking for oil for the rear diff again and can not find any at the petrol stations we stop at. We eventually found a mechanic in a garage who would let us have some. He cleaned out an old bottle of transmission oil and filled it with the diff oil. Thanking him we were on our way again. We looked at the map last night and decided to drive about two hundred Km today and then turn off to find a camp site.

Leaving the main road we drove south towards the coast at Cape Adieu and after 50km the sign informed us that you need a permit to camp in the park. We had thought from the map that the park didn’t extend this far. Never mind we found a nice spot near the memorial to the crew of the Turton Star that sank in a storm off this coast. The view is stunning across the bay to Cape Adieu. Cape Adieu is the start of “The Great Australian Bight”. The waves were pounding on the shore as we took a walk at dusk. The wind is quite strong but warm and as it is a sea breeze will probably die down at sunset. We are now sitting in our chairs outside, protected from the wind by the Troopy watching the sun set over the ocean. It doesn’t get better than this. With another day over it is time to turn in.
Thursday 8th January 2009
Turton Star Memorial
30°C Sunny

The drive back up to the main road was only 30km so we must have taken a scenic route in. Back on the main road we continued west through the Aboriginal Reserve and on to the Nullarbor Road House. As we had nearly depleted one of our two fuel tanks we decided to fill up. Due to the number of drive offs without paying we had to give Martins driving licence to the cashier before she would start the pump. We got it back when we paid for the fuel. The diesel is 30c a litre more expensive than in town but they have haulage costs to get it here. We made use of the facilities while we had a chance (flushing loos and hot showers), before heading off. The lady in Ceduna had given us a hand drawn map of how to find some caves out behind the roadhouse. 10k of dirt track brought us to the first of three sinkholes. We explored around the first two as there was no easy way down. The third had a rock and scree slope descending into it. We went down and found ochre sprayed hand prints on the ceiling and wall.

Having lunch at the top by the Troopy we then drove back to the main road. A dingo ran across the track as we approached and shot off into the scrub looking back as he went. Rejoining the main road we continued west and after the 145km Peg we turned off on to the road that leads to Cook. We were told to find a bushy area on the left after half a K. Finding it we parked in the bushes to camp for the night as they will give some protection from the wind tonight and far enough away from the main road so traffic will not be an issue. While we were drinking afternoon tea and fruit cake (Purchased in Ceduna), we saw some electric blue butterflies flitting around the bushes.

Friday 9th January 2009
Cook Road
28°C Sunny

Having stayed up last night to watch a hole, hoping it was a wombat hole as we haven’t seen one in the wild yet. After three hours of dusk and dark, getting colder we retired to the bed of the Troopy. We had positioned it down wind of the holes and we could see any movement from the front window of the upstairs. We saw nothing, never mind maybe next time. At breakfast this morning we had a guest, one of the electric blue butterflies. It loved the sweet milk left over from our cereals. It was lapping it up off of Jackie’s finger and was very determined to stay no matter what she did.

Packing up we moved on, and back out on the main highway we stopped at a viewing point to see the cliffs marching away into the distance. We stayed safely back from the edge as they are not too safe. Driving on we drove down the stretch of road that is also an emergency landing strip for the RFDS (Royal Flying Doctors Service). After the warning sign for Camels, Kangaroos and Wombats we found the turning we had been told about and leaving the highway again drove 15 Km north to the old Nullarbor road and the Koonalda Homestead / Roadhouse. It was abandoned in the seventies when the new road that ran further south was sealed. It is now owned by the National Parks and camping is allowed in and around the property. After driving five Km further north to see another cave (sinkhole) that was large enough for people to have lived in the recent past we drove back to look at the wrecks and buildings. After lunch and some more time examining the old sheep shearing shed and it’s concrete sheep dip we drove out to a blowhole we had been told about Afterwards we drove out along the old fence track and found a secluded camp spot. Setting up took no time and we settled down for the afternoon to avoid the worst of the heat. Whilst eating dinner we had another uninvited guest, a 3cm long yellow and black winged insect crawled up Martin’s leg. He looked down expecting to see a fly – you should have seen him move! Once it had dropped off of his leg he used a shovel to move it away from where we were eating and we finished dinner undisturbed.

Saturday 10th January 2009
Koonalda Homestead
31°C Sunny

Packing up and leaving Konalda Homestead today we returned to the Old Eyre Highway and decided that rather than drive along the tarmac we would take the old road. One hundred Ks of dirt road later we arrived at the border crossing. There is a fruit fly quarantine station at the boarder for traffic into West Australia. We were checked and cleared to go. We drove another four Km and then collected some water from a rainwater tank before stopping just up the road at Jillah Rockhole for the night. This is a road side rest area with bush camping behind it. There is a drop toilet so it’s quite luxurious. With the extra non drinking water it’s clean up time tonight, we have had strip washed every night but the last shower was at Ceduna (four nights ago). The bush shower is laying out in the sun warming for tonight’s showers and then we will do some laundry as it’s still two or three days until we reach Norseman and civilisation. Still we are having a good time with all the peace and quiet, not to mention the scenery and wildlife.

Sunday 11th January 2009
Jillah Rockhole
36°C Sunny

After a good nights sleep and feeling fresh after our lovely showers we set off west again. Two hours driving brought us to Cocklebiddy Road House. One of our fuel tanks was empty so we topped it up, diesel here is quite expensive, as it has to be trucked out from Perth (A$1.60 per litre as compared to A$1.24 in the centre of Melbourne). We set off again and as we approached Caiguna we turned off the road at a patch trees and drove into the bush about half a kilometre and set up camp for the day. Tomorrow we will drive the “Longest Straight in Australia” that runs 146.6 Km from Caiguna to Balladonia. And the day after will see us in Norseman with the Nullarbour crossing behind us. This afternoon we will relax in the shade of the awning on the back of the Troopy as the temperature is in the high thirties and still rising. We still have plenty of drinking water so we are keeping hydrated (drinking lots). We are now looking forward to shopping in Norseman as our fresh food supplies are dwindling. We still have plenty of tinned and dried foods but that is for emergencies and not as nice as the fresh. Whilst sitting in the shade a very large locust landed on Jackie (She was wearing her purple flower sarong and must have looked like a flower). It made her jump as it landed with a thump and then flew off quickly as she shook it off. We do not know who was the most shocked Jackie or the locust.

Monday 12th January 2009
Caiguna
46°C (113°F) Sunny

Driving out of the bush and back on to the main road we again turned west. Immediately we came to a sign telling us to retard our clocks by another 45 minutes. Shortly after we arrived at the 90 mile straight sign. After a quick photo we set off. 146.6 kilometres without turning the wheel took just under an hour and a half. The first corner at the end of the straight had lots of skid marks caused by heavy breaking as drivers were surprised by the change of direction. We stopped at a roadhouse at Balladonia for a comfort break.

Driving on to within 90 Ks of Norseman we stopped at a roadside camping area and drove as far into the bush as we could for the privacy. We are only an hours drive from finishing the crossing and will drive into Norseman tomorrow morning for some shopping. Setting up camp tonight we discovered to pleasures of the fly net. With so many flies we resorted for the first time to the mozzie/fly nets we had brought ages ago. It’s funny to see about 50 flies on the net in front of your face and a relief for them not to be up your nose and in your ears. Dinner will be later tonight as the flies tend to decrease after sunset (probably because they do not like the mozzies either).

Tuesday 13th January 2009
10 Mile Rocks
44°C Sunny

Due to the time change yesterday we were awake at seven o’clock. Hoping to beat the flies we got up and ate breakfast. Moderately successful as we only shared breakfast with about five flies each. We drove into Norseman to complete our crossing of the Nullarbour. After 1201 kilometres we are back in civilisation and celebrated with a long black coffee in a china cup and saucer. Norseman was named after a horse that kicked at the ground here and found a large gold nugget. Leaving Norseman we drove north to Kalgoorlie. Parking up we had lunch then shopped to restock our larder, filled our LPG cylinders and then drove to the caravan park. On the way we stopped in at the Super Pit viewing enclosure. Now that is what I call a hole in the ground. It is an open cast gold mine and the scale is difficult to comprehend. Filling the water tank, showering and doing the laundry filled the afternoon and then we had a BBQ for dinner on the free BBQ.

Wednesday 14th January 2009
Kalgoorlie
37°C Sunny

Leaving the caravan park this morning with the water tank full and everything freshly washed we drove into Kalgoorlie (or ‘Kal’ as one of the locals called it). We stopped in at a 4WD shop and ordered a twin wheel carrier for the back of the Troopy. There are two reasons for fitting this, first it will enable us to carry two spare wheels, for when we go into the more remote areas and it will stop the weight of the spare pulling the rear door hinges out of line (we have to help the door open with a screwdriver at the moment). It will be delivered and fitted Friday. Having sorted that out we realised that we have driven 9850 km since we brought the Troopy and it has to be serviced every 10000 km. So it is booked in for a service tomorrow. Looks like we are staying near Kal for a couple of days. We drove out to Kals Arboretum for lunch, we didn’t know that there were so many different types of gum trees. We spent a nice hour looking at the trees and reading the labels. On the way to our camp site just outside Kal we stopped in at the airfield and visited the RFDS (Royal Flying Doctors Service). Then out to a man made lake where we can camp. It’s only six kilometres outside Kal, which is good as we have to be at the garage by eight o’clock in the morning. They have promised to service the Troopy first in the morning as we will not only have no transport we will also be homeless. Fortunately there is McD just down the road so we can find somewhere to sit out of the sun.

Thursday 15th January 2009
Kalgoorlie
35°C Sunny

Early start this morning. Got to be at the garage by eight o’clock for the Troopy’s service. Up at six and pack up, drive into Kal and stop at the petrol station to pressure wash the Troopy. It’s hard enough undoing bolts without them being covered in 10000 KM of dirt. Arriving at the garage we dropped the Troopy off and walked the half kilometre to the McD for coffee and breakfast. We sat in shock – homeless. After waiting an hour and a half we strolled back towards the garage knowing that we still had half an hour to wait. As we neared the garage we saw a pop-top camper coming towards us. We commented to each other that it was the first we had seen apart from out Troopy and didn’t it look good. As it got nearer we recognised our registration, it was our Troopy out on a test run so the service was done.

We arrived at the garage and collected the Troopy. Ah home again. To celebrate we drove out to a local lake, only 50 km of dirt road and had lunch before driving back to town. Calling in at a chemist shop to replace Jackie’s Piriton (for the mozzie bites) The pharmacist told us to take vitamin B1 as it will reduce the allergic reaction to bites. Especially if we are going to Port Headland (which we are) because it is sand fly central and they bite a lot. So we shot across to the supermarket and are giving vitamin B1 a go. Then it was back to the same camp spot as last night because the Troopy has to be at the 4WD shop at eight to have the wheel carrier fitted in the morning.

Friday 16th January 2009
Kalgoorlie
40°C Sunny

Up early again and in to town to Opposite Lock the 4WD shop after taking our vitamin B1 tablet (Martin is NOT happy, B1 tablets taste like Marmite and he does not like Marmite !). Dropping the Troopy off we walked towards town stopping for breakfast. The temperature was rising and the shadows were disappearing as we got to town. We spent the morning shopping and drinking coffee at various cafes, trying to stay out of the sun. Martin brought a packet of Tictac so he will have something to take the taste of the B1 tablet away. At one o’clock we walked slowly back to the 4WD shop to find that fitting the wheel carrier was taking longer than expected as the water tank and shield made access to some of the bolts extremely difficult. We spent most of the afternoon sitting in camp chairs in the shop as we could not walk any further in the heat. At four o’clock the Troopy was finally finished and we decided rather than moving on to our next camp site (about two hours drive) we would return to last nights spot again as it was close. A quick dinner was all we could manage before preparing for bed.

Saturday 17th January 2009
Kalgoorlie
48°C Very Sunny

Back to normal routine after two days, breakfast and make lunch before packing up and heading off to our next stop. On the way we came across a Sand Monitor sunning himself on the road. We stopped and walked right up to him and he still wouldn't move off of the road, he only left when we got within 2 foot and then he left at a run. Arriving at Burra Rock at about lunch time we found a nice camping spot near the loos. Setting up camp, putting up the awning and filling the bush shower with water from the dam only took about half an hour. The temperature kept rising until all we could do was sit in the shade of the awning, sweat and drink 7 litres of water each. In the late afternoon we threw a line over a branch and pulled the bush shower up intending to take a nice shower. Oops the water was scalding and we had to add as much cold(ish) water as we could to cool it to just roasting. That done it was shower time with the non showering partner holding the towel in case passers by wandered close. Refreshed and clean we waited until dark as we couldn’t eat in the heat. After a lovely dinner we star gazed as there is no light pollution and the stars we very bright, we also saw a couple of shooting stars before bed time.

Sunday 18th January 2009
Burra Rock
34°C Sunny

After a nice nights sleep we packed up and moved on. Driving south to Cave Rock we looked for the road south but could not find it. Eventually we found a very rough 4WD track heading the way we wanted to go. Well that’s why we brought the Troopy. 50 km of rough track later and one wash that we had to stop sharply for and drive carefully through we arrived at the normal gravel roads. We eventually got back to the tarmac and drove into Norseman again to have lunch and confirm the temperature yesterday at the tourist information office. Yes it was 48°C!

Driving south towards Esperance we once again turned off of the highway and out into the bush to a place called Peak Charles. This is one of three granite hills sticking out of an otherwise flat terrain. We set up camp within 20 metres from the foot of the peak and sat down to do all the things we could not do yesterday due to the heat. One of them is typing up this diary as the heat was above the recommended working temperature for the computer and could have damaged it if we had used it. So today we have had to do both days diary today.

Monday 19th January 2009
Peak Charles
22°C Raining

Woke at half two this morning to the sound of rain on the roof of the Troopy. No leaks, so all is good. At six o’clock we were woke again to the sound of thunder. We were inside a thunder storm the lightning was all around and the thunder was instantaneous. We got up, washed and had breakfast without leaving the Troopy. That is another reason for having the Troopy and not a 4WD and a tent. As we were finishing breakfast the rain stopped and we quickly packed the Troopy away for travelling. The rain started again as Martin was clipping down the roof. We had planned to leave Peak Charles National Park by the southern exit, a 4WD track. However as we checked the signs we saw an “Impassable in the wet” sign. We looked at the map and the track crosses a river that runs off of Peak Charles and with all the rain we had overnight would probably be unsafe to ford. So we decided to retrace our route back north out of the park.

Although a nicely surfaced gravel road most of the way there were quite a few soft and slippery sections, especially one when we were almost sideways and sliding towards the bushes. We recovered the slide just in time to avoid problems. Dodging around the large potholes now full of muddy water and weaving from one side of the road to the other in search of the dry line we continued on. On quite a few occasions waves of muddy water washed up the windscreen and over the roof, the windscreen wipers were working overtime. After 40 km of this we finally reached the main road and drove on into Esperance. The rain was still falling as we visited the Information centre and decided to drive out to Cape Le Grand for the night. On arrival we found a camping spot by the beach. Due to the weather we will probably spend the evening in the Troopy and hope that the weather forecast, fine tomorrow is correct. At about three o’clock the rain stopped and the sky brightened and we went for a walk along the beach. The pure white sand is firm underfoot, smooth and very shallow so nice to walk on. Then we went back to the Troopy for a rest after our busy day.

Tuesday 20th January 2009
Cape Le Grand
31°C Sunny

After breakfast time for a shower. Solar heated water in the ablution block. Oh dear it rained all day yesterday and the water was cold. Oh well cold shower it is as there is no showers at tonight’s stop and it will be to public for the bush shower. Talking to a local who asked which camping spot we were in, when we told him he said “Oh the snake pit”. Just as well we didn’t know that last night or we might have had trouble sleeping. It turns out there are quite a few Tiger Snakes in the area. Leaving Cape Le Grand we drove into Esperance and stopped at the Tanker Jetty to meet Sammy the seal. He was lazing on the sand and only moved when one of the fishermen tossed him a fish. Sun, sand, sea and food what else could a seal want?

Time to stock our larder again and fuel the Troopy. As soon as that was done we left Esperance and headed out to the Pink Lake. Surprisingly there was water in the lake and yes it was pinkish. That’s an improvement on our usual record of dried up lakes, lagoons and reservoirs. Continuing on we arrived at Quagi Beach and found a camp site. Having got set up we walked down to the beach. We never tire of seeing another deserted beach and walking barefoot in the surf. Oh well back to the Troopy for dinner and bed. We had company again for dinner, some pretty honey eater birds and a few fan tails. Charming.


Wednesday 21st January 2009
Quagi Beach
33°C Sunny

Packed up as normal an took the short drive to tonight’s stop (only 100 km) to Starvation Boat Harbour. The name doesn’t sound too nice but it is a free camp site. The last 34 km was gravel road. When we arrived there were quite a few people already here and only one spot available. We took it and set up camp. As we couldn’t face the Troopy west into the setting sun we put the awning on the new tracks on the side of the vehicle. First time we will use them since fitting them in Kimba. We went for a short walk to the beach, a lovely sheltered bay with very small waves. There is also a pontoon about twenty metres off of the beach. Back to the Troopy for lunch and laundry.

After lunch and a sit down we decided to go for a swim. Creaming up and getting changed we strolled down to the beach. There were only one family on the beach so we walked a short way and piled our belongings above the high water mark before going for a swim. The water felt freezing as we got in, due to the air temperature 33° and the water being open to the Antarctic sea. Once we became used to the water it was quite comfortable. Martin used his goggles and snorkel and went hunting. He came back with and empty coke can and a child’s sun hat. Not the catch of the day but the place is slightly cleaner now. Jackie spent some time sitting on a convenient rock cooling off in the water and then swam around avoiding the seaweed. We were both slightly nervous, as there is no reason that a shark couldn’t be here. After a nice dip we walked back and rinsed in fresh water before drying and changing. Then it was time to relax and enjoy the afternoon until dinner and bed.

Thursday 22nd January 2009
Starvation Harbour
37°C Sunny

On the road again, more gravel road to Hopetoun. When we were looking at emigrating we found a job for Jackie in the nursery at Hopetoun, so we had a look around to see where we might have ended up if things had worked out differently. Hopetoun is a nice little seaside town that has had a lot of money spent on it recently by a mining company. Leaving Hopetoun we headed for Fitzgerald River National Park with a view to camping at one of the sites in the NP. When we arrived at the entry station there was a sign saying that all the camp sites were closed as they had been damaged in a wildfire. Due to this we stuck to the main road north to Raventhorpe.

Arriving in Raventhorpe we found about a dozen news camera crews gathered around the court house. “Ooo I wonder what is going on there?” Checking the local news later we found out that due to the financial downturn the mining company had announced that it was pulling out of the area so Hopetoun will not need its new school and other facilities. Heading west we stopped at the marker for the 120° East meridian, we are exactly one third the way around the world from Greenwich. We continued on looking for a camping spot for the night and found a roadside rest area. We got far enough away from the road so the trucks wouldn’t keep us awake and settled down for the evening.

Friday 23rd January 2009
Fitzgerald River
32°C Sunny

Leaving the rest area this morning we drive towards Albany planning to stop short at one of three camp areas in our books. Unfortunately next Monday is Australia Day and most Ozzies idea for the Australia Day weekend is a swag, a BBQ and some tinnies and off camping for the long weekend. This means that all three camping areas are bursting with no room for us. We sat and ate our lunch and studied the map. No free campsites without driving at least 100 km. We decided to drive in to Albany and see what we could find.

Martin has been looking at diving sometime soon and in Albany there is HMAS Perth, a sunken navy destroyer just outside the harbour. So he booked up for a dive on Sunday. We decided to book ourselves into a caravan park for two nights (luxury). Jackie is looking for a sightseeing / wine cruise for Sunday when Martin is diving. As we are at a powered site tonight, we will use the free BBQ to cook a steak and Caesar salad for dinner and then settle down to enjoy the evening sunshine.

Saturday 24th January 2009
Albany
37°C Sunny

As we are staying in the same place tomorrow night we had a nice lazy start to the day. We drove out to Emu Point and booked Jackie on a river cruise for Sunday whilst Martin is diving. We then drove out to Frenchman Point to check out where Martin has to be Sunday morning and the travel times between. Then we went into town (Albany) and walked around the shops before having a nice lunch. Then back to the park to get the laundry done. We talked to our neighbours children. The little girl (Grace about 2 years old ) has one word “Hi” and uses it all the time. They got invaded by ants and we lent them some of our ant spray. Once the kids were in bed we chatted to the parents until dark.

Sunday 25th January 2009
Albany
35°C Sunny

Up at six o’clock to get packed and return the gate key and move out of the park. Driving into the dive shop Martin prepared his dive gear and loaded it on the Troopy. Then we picked up a breakfast on the move from McD (coffee and raisin toast). We then drove out to Emu Point and ate breakfast before dropping Jackie for her cruise on a glass bottom boat (The Kalgan Queen). She had a good day seeing much wild life with a humorous and informative running commentary. Some of the animals she saw were dolphins, sting rays, pelicans, sea eagles and ospreys. Then at the Montgomery Hill Winery she had a nice wine tasting session. On the way back the captain made damper bread and served it with coffee and a few pointers on how to make damper bread.

Meanwhile Martin drove out to the boat ramp for his dive. The drop down onto the HMAS Perth (another Perth visited [5 now]) starts at the top of the mast which is above the water and houses a meteorology station. The Perth was decommissioned and sunk as an artificial reef in 2001 and is now covered with plants and animals. With numerous holes cut in the sides and top of the ship it is possible so swim through and along inside the ship. Dropping down at the stern Martin swam under the ship just forwards of the rudders. Surfacing and having lunch it was time for a second dive to the bow. The deepest point was kneeling on the sand directly under the bow and looking up the full length of the bow.

Two fantastic dives then it was time to pick up Jackie who had been waiting patiently at the picnic area watching the people getting their boats out of the water. Especially the one who as he drove up the slip way heard the noise of his propeller dragging on the concrete because he had forgotten to raise the motor. As he jumped out to sort this problem out the car, trailer and boat started to roll down the slip because ha hadn’t put the handbrake on the car. Having driven around a few campsite to find them all full we decided to have a pizza in Albany before driving out to Mount Barker and a roadside rest area for the night. Empty as no locals would want to stay here on Australia Day. Then bed after an exhausting but fun day.
Monday 26th January 2009
Sturdee Rest Area
26°C Overcast

Waking up to the sound of traffic. We are beside the main road Albany to Perth and hundreds of vehicles are returning to Perth at the end of the public holiday. While we were having breakfast a police car swung around in the rest area and shot off after a motorist. Someone’s weekend is about to be spoilt as it’s double demerits (points on licence) on public holidays. Finishing breakfast we drove out to a National Park to a place called Fernhook Falls for the night. A nice shady spot in the woods. After lunch we walked down to the falls (almost dry – only a trickle) and the swimming hole. The water is brackish so we probably won’t swim in it today. We were visited by Bronze Wing Fairy Wrens during the afternoon. Lovely little birds with a bright blue head. After dinner on the free gas BBQ, chatting to the camp hosts (volunteers to look after then camp site during the busy holiday season) and listening to the dad and three sons crashing and banging about sorting out their cabin it was again time for bed.

Tuesday 27th January 2009
Fernhook Falls
26°C Cloudy

Leaving Fernhook Falls we headed south to Walpole to buy some groceries and fuel. As we left the site the camp host was waiting beside the exit to say goodbye as they had just been told that their job was finished and that they could go home as the season was finished. We spotted a camp site on the map in a National Park and decided to head towards that for the night. After 50 km of gravel road and several diversions to get round closed roads and bridges we arrived to find that the site had been taken over by the Shire and the camp fee had gone up to A$10 per person per night. As we looked around it wasn’t really a camp site either, it was a community living in temporary houses. We didn’t like the feel of the place and certainly didn’t like the price for the few facilities on offer.

We left and drove to see the lookout at Point D’Entrecasteaux, just down the coast. The coastline is very beautiful and we walked around the point for a while. Whilst we were sat back in the Troopy, looking at the maps once again Jackie spotted a possible camp site in a National Park north of Pemberton. We drove to the location taking all sorts of turns and back roads until we arrived at Big Brook Arboretum. We would never have found this spot without the directions in the book. The site is shaded by the arboretums large trees planted in 1929 and is very pleasant. We went for a walk in the afternoon and then settled in for the night.

Wednesday 28th January 2009
Big Brook Arboretum
24°C Cloudy

Leaving Big Brook Arboretum was slightly more difficult than we had imagined as there were several road closures and Tomtom was having a bad satellite day. We eventually found a road sign to Pemberton and headed that way. Back on the main roads we headed north and after three hours arrived at Lane Poole Reserve. Checking out the available camp sites, first we found “Baden Powell” but it wasn’t very nice. Bare dirt, overflowing bins and lots of large tents with children of all ages, hardly relaxing. Driving a further four kilometres into the park we pulled into “Charlie’s Flat”, much nicer, individual plots scattered amongst the trees with enough foliage to screen one site from the next. Picking our favourite we set up camp again. We took a short walk along the river but the path was more of a track and very hard in our ankles, so it was only a “short” walk”. We enjoyed watching the little wrens of several type flitting around in the bushes and the black and ret cockatoos screeching high in the trees. Martin got his camera to snap some photos and suddenly all the birds disappeared (They must know), even the crows!

Thursday 29th January 2009
Charlie’s Flat
27°C Cloudy

After a wet and windy night having been woken several times by the rain hammering on the roof we were woken at dawn by the kookaburras. Feeling glad we weren’t in a tent we got up and had breakfast. We had been waiting for the warden to come round and collect the camping fee last night and he hadn’t shown. There was no honesty box and as we couldn’t find anyone to pay when we left at ten o’clock we had a free camping night. Only a short drive into Rockingham today, checking into a caravan park for a powered site. By lunch we had showered and done two loads of laundry so it was time to go to town. After a nice afternoon shopping, visiting three shopping centres and having several coffees we returned to the caravan park for the night. We had dinner watching the twenty-eight’s (a green parrot) playing in the water from the sprinklers. Then they watched us eating dinner, obviously expecting leftovers. We were so hungry they were out of luck. Having washed up we settled back for the evening.

Friday 30th January 2009
Rockingham
30°C Sunny

Leaving the caravan park we drove into Rockingham and shopped for a while before driving out to Mandurah to Don and Fran’s. We spent the afternoon sitting on the veranda looking out over the water, chatting and catching up. Don and his son Steven went out to the dog racing as they are in a syndicate who own a greyhound and it was racing. They arrived home happy as the dog had won. Then we spent the evening chilling out and watching the tennis on the television.

Saturday 31st January 2009
Mandurah
36°C Sunny

Waking to the sun through the window Don and Steven left to go crabbing in the estuary. After a lazy morning we went shopping for a small tent / mozzie shelter. We have been looking for one the right size for the last three weeks. When we go north we can use it to sit out without worrying about mozzies and we can use it to keep our camping spot when we take the Troopy shopping. We got bit by mozzies the other night and thy haven’t flared up so the vitamin B1 seems to be working. In the evening Don cooked a BBQ and then we watched the lightning in the storm on the other side of the estuary from the decking.
Sunday 1st February 2009
Mandurah
36°C Sunny

In the morning after breakfast we went for a picnic cup of tea at Island Point. A very nice spot under the peppermint gums beside the estuary. Whilst we drank tea we watched the crabbers scooping in the shallows. They use a basket on a long pole to scoop up crabs and drop them in the plastic box that floats along behind them attached on a short length of line.
In the afternoon we drove out to Jarrahdale to see Louise and Peter Atkins, old school friends of Jackies and spent the afternoon reminiscing about school, teachers and old friends. We had a BBQ with them and their two sons Nathan and Daniel. Later we drove back to Don and Frans at dusk keeping a good eye on the many mobs of kangaroo in the paddocks next to the road.

Monday 2nd February 2009
Mandurah
38°C Sunny

Martin was up early today as he was off crabbing with Don for Blue Manner Crabs (or Swimmer Crabs). Hitching up the boat and baiting the crab pots they drove down to the boat ramp and set off. Dropping the ten pots on a line and circling back the first string only brought one crab of a size that we could keep (using the size gauge to measure the crab). The second string netted another two so we moved the line over and after that the crabs were more plentiful. After about two and a half hours we had caught our limit and headed back in. Martin had only been pinched twice by crabs. The first one drew blood and really hurt but the second was not so bad (must be getting tougher?).

Jackie rose slightly later and spent the morning doing the laundry and writing emails. Back at the house we cooked the crabs in boiling water for seven minutes and then having cleaned up had fresh crab for lunch with vinegar and bread and butter. We had four crabs each and saved the remainder for Cathy (one of Fran’s daughters). In the afternoon Martin and Don went looking for a second spare wheel for the Troopy and Jackie and Fran took the crabs over to Cathy’s. Whilst there Jackie got bit on the hand by their dog. We do not know why and fortunately Jackie was not seriously hurt and the dog was put out side for the duration of the stay. Returning to Don and Fran’s we had dinner and watched a film about lawn bowls called Crackerjack.

Tuesday 3rd February 2009
Mandurah
32°C Sunny

Martin and Don went out early to the tyre shop, Don for new tyres on his car and Martin still looking for a wheel for the Troopy. Success at last with the wheel, the Troopy having raised suspension and larger tyres made getting a second hand spare almost impossible. Fortunately the tyre shop had a new rim and fitted a tyre. The Troopy looks much better with two spares on the back. We drove out to an old hippy colony for a picnic lunch but after a short walk round changed our plans as there were loads of mozzies and the signs were warning of Ross River Virus. We drove to a beach and found a picnic bench and the sea breeze kept the mozzies away. Leaving the beach as we drove round a corner a kangaroo jumped out of the bush beside the car and hit the mirror before bounding off into the bush on the other side of the road. In the evening Don and Fran went to bowls and we went out for a pizza.

Wednesday 4th February 2009
Mandurah
34°C Sunny

We went shopping today for a new Engel fridge for the Troopy. Having checked out the local camping shops we found a place called Engel World near Perth. We drove up there and they were very helpful, coming out to the Troopy to measure up the space and look at our old fridge. They were also cheaper by A$300 so we also got a cover for the new fridge. Having succeeded with the fridge we decided to drive into the city on the way back. We dropped into Kings Park that overlooks Perth for a coffee and to walk on the new elevated pathway and glass bridge. Part of the park was closed for a concert tonight. As we were walking past we heard the band doing their sound check and a short practice, “They are playing a Simply Red song” we said. A short distance later we found a poster advertising the concert, it was Simply Red. So we stopped and enjoyed our free concert as they did a couple of numbers.

Then we set off back towards Mandurah. As we got just south of Rockingham the traffic came to a grinding halt. There was a bush fire close to the road and we sat and watched the three helicopters water bombing the fire (One S61 and two Twin Squirrels). As the traffic was going nowhere for a while we turned off and hacked across country to bypass the fire. After a fine piece of navigation by Jackie and some good guesses by Martin we found our way back to Mandurah. A little later we drove out to a restaurant and had a fish and chip supper by the harbour.

Thursday 5th February 2009
Mandurah
30°C Sunny

Spent the morning removing the old fridge and fitting our brand new squeaky clean one. By ten o’clock it was in but needed a few bits and pieces to complete the fit. We went out to a pub by the river for lunch with Don, Fran and some friends and had a nice time sat by the bank watching the boats come and go. After lunch on the way back we stopped in at a DIY store and purchased the parts we needed and on return we finished fitting the fridge and fitted a compass to the dashboard to help us align the Troopy with the sun when we set up camp. Up till now we have had to jump in and out of the Troopy with a hand held compass to maximise the shade. We gave Don and Fran the pressie we had picked out for them (A crazy Clay Chicken [chook]). We started packing our boxes for the return to camping in the morning. We have had a good time staying but are now looking forward to the next leg of out tour.

Friday 6th February 2009
Mandurah
28°C Sunny

Time to get back on the road, after a lovely week with Don and Fran we packed up after breakfast and said our good byes. Next stop the supermarket and restock the Troopy. With the new fridge full to bursting we drove south to Bunbury where we bumped into Fran’s friend from the meal yesterday. We couldn’t believe it she was leaving the shops as we walked in. From Bunbury we drove out to Wellington National Park and found a camp site at Potters Gorge by the reservoir.

It took about three hours to put away the shopping and re-stow our clothes and equipment after staying with Fran. During the afternoon we got bitten about four times each by march flies but they didn’t get a second chance. We sprayed up with Rid ( a fly / mozzzie repellent) and enjoyed the rest of the afternoon. The camp site filled up by nine o’clock and we hope to get a good nights sleep tonight back in our own bed.

Saturday 7th February 2009
Potters Gorge
28°C Sunny

Last night we were kept awake by people laughing, shouting and throwing bottles in the recycling bin until one o’clock in the morning, then we were woken by wallabies crashing around in the undergrowth at three o’clock. Finally one of our fellow campers decided to split logs at seven in the morning to cook his breakfast. All in all not a good night although watching the wallabies was nice and being back in our own bed was lovely. At least having replaced the fridge that didn’t keep us awake. Moving on we drove into Bussleton and had a look at their jetty, it’s quite long (at least a kilometre) and bends at about the halfway mark through about 45 degrees.

The local Surf Life Savers Club were having a games day on the beach so we watched the little ones compete in a tug-o-war. We then drove out to tonight’s camp ground in the Rapids Conservation Park. We found a spot at Canebreak Pool and settled in. This site seems quieter than last nights and more families so we look forward to a good sleep tonight. We went for a walk down to the pool and found a nice swimming hole full of kids having a ball. There are only nine camp sites here and all of them are now full. All through the afternoon cars towing caravans and trailers would drive slowly in and around before realising there was nowhere for them to camp. Then they would leave at speed obviously hoping to find somewhere before it gets too late. This seems to be quite common and we like to have a site by two o’clock at the latest so we don’t end up sleeping by the road.

Sunday 8th February 2009
Canebreak Pool
36°C Sunny

Lazy start today to make up for the other night, we stayed in bed until well past eight o’clock. Eventually the side of the camper in the sun got too hot and we had to get up. Packing up we drove out of the national park and into Margaret River which was very busy. It is a very touristy place so we updated our web page and collected our e-mails, then we drove back out of town. Only twenty minutes later we pulled into Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park at a place called Conto Campground. We found a nice secluded spot and set up camp, putting up the awning and laying the camp shower out in the sun to warm. After a couple of hours the water was hot enough to wash hair. Then we sat back in our camp chairs and watched the birds flitting in and out of the peppermint gum trees. A large kookaburra landed on a branch right above us and watched us for a while before flying off. We checked out the free BBQ and will have steak and salad for dinner tonight. The sign at the BBQ says that the possums are very tame and used to humans but please do not feed them.

Monday 9th February 2009
Conto Campground
38°C Sunny

After a nice relaxing night, refreshed we left Conto and headed south again to Augusta. We visited an old waterwheel that has been petrified by the calcium in the water that is flowing over it. It no longer turns or delivers water to the lighthouse. Stopping at the bakery recommended by Peter and Louise we grabbed a couple of pies and drove out of town. We stopped up the road at a parking area and had an early lunch. Continuing on we arrived at Bridgetown, a very nice town named after the bridge over the Blackwood river. After a stop in the local park to fill our spare water container we headed towards our stop for the night.

Thirty kilometres north of Boyup Brook we turned off of the road as directed in our camp site books. Eight kilometres of gravel road later we turned left off of the road down an unmarked track to find as listed a lovely little camping area beside the river Blackwood. Selecting our spot and setting up took no time, so we did a little washing and hung it out to dry. An hour later the clothes were dry so we packed them away. Another camper van arrived at about half four but they parked out of sight of us. We ate dinner with the sun setting the other side of the river and we watched the light dancing on the ripples as we had our evening drinks. Listening to the insects chirping and clicking until dark, we then went to bed.

Tuesday 10th February 2009
Eulin Crossing Road
39°C Sunny

We woke at 7:45am to hear our neighbours pull out and leave. As we were now alone we had a leisurely breakfast an then packed up. We decided last night to head for a free camping spot just south of Hyden and Wave Rock. Three quarters of the way there we stopped at Grace Lake for our lunch and found a fresh water tap, so we topped up our water tank as well. On the way out of town we filled up with diesel and then headed north. Arriving at our camp spot after driving for three hours we found that it had been upgraded and camping is now not allowed. We drove on to Hyden but it costs A$7.50 just to park in the rock car park. How things have changed in the fifteen years since we were last here. We wouldn’t pay the hiked up prices for everything around Wave Rock ,so looking at our camp books we set off towards Southern Cross, a town 159 kilometres to the north of Hyden and the nearest free camp site.

Having driven for an hour and 80 km north up a dirt road past fenced in fields we finally moved out into marlee scrub and a short while later spotted a small extra turning at a crossroad. Stopping and chucking a u-ee we drove into the side turning to find it was a stone stockpile / plant parking area for when they re-grade the road. Driving across the area we reversed into a small clearing and parked. This will do for the night. We quickly set up camp and relaxed for the rest of the afternoon. As we have driven two days worth of kilometres today we will have to rethink our route plans, so out with the maps and guides. Having sorted out our revised timetable and with the sun setting on another lovely day it was time for dinner and bed.

Wednesday 11th February 2009
Emu Fence Road
38°C Sunny

After a really peaceful night we woke with the sun and rested jumped out of bed. After a nice breakfast we left the road repair site and headed off. As we drove down the gravel road we saw a tourist info sign and as we drove past we realised it was the Rabbit Proof Fence. As we had seen the film we decided to stop and have a look, the sign said that the Rabbit Proof Fence stretches from Port Headland in the north to Starvation Boat Harbour in the south. We have camped at the southern point, this is known as the 54 Mile Gate and we will see the other end when we arrive in Port Headland later in our journey. Driving on we stopped in a little town called Bruce Rock for some basic provisions before continuing to our stop for the night.

We are at a place called Kokerbin Rock, another rock sticking up out of an otherwise flat landscape. It’s free to camp here and we have had the place to ourselves all afternoon and evening. Late this afternoon we went for a walk around the rock. At a sign for the “Dog Rock” we turned off of the main track and walked up a narrow track. Within twenty metres we found a massive spider web across the path with a rather large spider sitting in the centre of it. We walked carefully underneath it (the bottom strand was about six feet above the ground). After that we had to find our way past nine of ten webs, one of them had three large and four small spiders in it. Jackie did very well considering she does not like spiders. At the base of the rock was a cave with more spiders and the path onwards was blocked by a web covered fallen tree. We had to retrace our steps back past the earlier webs as we are not sure how safe these spiders are. At sunset we were sat at the back of the Troopy when a mob of kangaroo crashed through the bush beside us. They are not exactly silent movers, sounds like a rhinoceros smashing through the bush. After the sun set we watched the clear star filled sky, looking for shooting stars before bed.

Thursday 12th February 2009
Kokerbin Rock
33°C Sunny

Still alone we got up, breakfasted and drove away from Kokerbin Rock. Compared to the commercialism of Wave Rock this was a delightful discovery. Driving in towards Perth we had to slow down at one point as a family of emu we wandering across the main road. We arrived at Armadale and went shopping for a few essentials, whilst Martin was putting the shopping in the Troopy Jackie ordered the coffee (just like shopping back home). After coffee Jackie got her hair cut, it’s needed doing for the last week but getting around to it has been awkward. Back in the Troopy and on route to our nights stop we turned off and pulled in at Serpentine Dam for lunch before driving through the hills on gravel tracks to our chosen camp site.

Small problem the camping area is closed, oh well we will head to an alternate. Arriving at the roadside rest area we were met by at least a dozen “No Camping” signs. It is starting to be a larger problem because you can’t just pull off of the road and camp in a city. Our third and last possibility is down by the estuary, a camp site run by the Shire and a minimal camping fee. Arriving we found space to camp and it was very reasonable. Shortly after we arrived the evening sea breeze started and we had to sit tight in to the Troopy to stop our salad blowing off of our plates as we ate and hold our drinks with the other hand to stop them being blown away. Tidying up and setting up for the night took no time and we will be in bed reasonably early tonight. We have to be up early in the morning to get the tyres on the Troopy changed as the tread on the rear wheels is close to the legal limit.

Friday 13th February 2009
Herron Point
28°C Cloudy

Ah Friday the Thirteenth, up breakfast and packed away as normal. Jump in the Troopy to go and get mew tyres – clunk, the engine won’t turn over. Lift the bonnet and check all the connections, no problems. Unpack the back of the Troopy to find the jump leads, hook up the spare camping battery to the road battery and – clunk. Oh bother, looks like we have a problem. Find a pair of fellow campers and explain the problem, no worries we can use their car to jump start the Troopy. All connected and click-a-click-a-click, no start. Consensus or opinion it must be the starter solenoid. Pull the back apart again to find the tow strap. Using the helpers car, tow start the Troopy.

With the engine running Martin tried to beep the horn to let the towing driver know it was running and the horn wouldn’t work no matter how hard he hit it. With the gear in the back sort of packed we were off to the tyre shop, oh no the tyres we needed had just been sold out and no more until a week Monday. keeping the engine running so we wouldn’t have to start it we drove around garages and auto electricians. Same story everywhere, yes they could fix it but not for at least a week.

We finally located a replacement starter motor and booked into a caravan park. After the engine had cooled down Martin fitted the new starter with the assistance of helpful campers and – clunk, no change. Our neighbour in the caravan park is a mechanic and will be home at about five, Surely enough he turned up and diagnosed the starter relay, so tomorrow morning Martin will walk to the Toyota Dealer to obtain a new one. Lets hope tomorrow is a better day.

Saturday 14th February 2009
Rockingham
25°C Cloudy

Martin walked the two kilometres to the Toyota main dealer arriving at just after they opened at eight. The parts are not in stock but can be delivered by lunchtime Monday. There was some confusion as to the part number of the item required so he decided to remove the relay from the Troopy and take it in to check. As long as the order was in by midday the delivery would still be Monday. On the return walk he spotted a local car hire company and looked in to a car. A$35 (£15) a day for a rather old Hyundai, not up to the standard of Hertz but it’s better than walking so he got one for a few days until the Troopy can be fixed.

Driving back to the campsite Jackie had the bed put away and the breakfast on. After breakfast we removed the suspect relay and both the batteries. The relay confirmed the part number for Toyota and the batteries went in to a local battery shop for testing, we will find out on Monday if they have a problem. As we won’t have a driveable Troopy until late Monday we have booked into the caravan park until Tuesday morning. With that done and nothing else we could do to fix the Troopy we decided to go shopping in Perth. An hour later we were parked and in the shopping centre. As we walked through the pedestrian shopping area and arrived at Tudor Court there was a bit of a commotion. It turns out that it was Midday on Valentines Day and about 15 couples were proposing in front of the gate and clock. There were a lot of happy screams, hugs, roses and a few sad faces so I guess that not all got the answer they hoped for, oh well that’s love. It looks like a local tradition and we wandered into the middle of it thinking that it must be street theatre. We spent three hours wandering around the shops and having lunch in an underground food court. Before returning to Rockingham to get some basic provisions, then back to the camp site to enjoy the cooler afternoon/evening.

Sunday 15th February 2009
Rockingham
37°C Sunny

Short layin today as we are not going anywhere. We put a load of laundry on before breakfast and hung it out to dry after. The three machines are on constant use, it looks like Sunday is laundry day. Once the housework was done we decided on a trip to Penguin Island in Safety Bay. A short drive brought us to the car park and a car was leaving so we slid straight into their spot. There are two ways of getting to the island, either the ferry at twelve dollars each return or wade. We decided to wade so packing all our stuff into plastic bags we set off for the kilometre crossing. There is an underwater sand bar that runs out to the island and the water is between waist and shoulder deep. It took about half and hour to wade out passing fishermen and warning buoys, also looking out for the boats that were passing all around us. When we finally got across we walked up and over the island (quite a steep sand dune track) to the west side. The waves there were too big for snorkelling so we walked back.

Back on the calm side of the island we found a nice spot and ate our lunch (warm cheddar cheese and pickle rolls [the cheese was going runny]). While we were eating several lizards slid out of the undergrowth and down on to the beach and walked over to us. Watching more come out of the bushes we also saw a penguin huddled up under the boardwalk. Once we had eaten and drunk some water we both went for a swim. Snorkelling our way over the sand and reef we saw a flat fish (that changed colour as it moved from rock to sand), a hermit crab in a shell, a zebra fish and lots of other fish we couldn’t identify. Having snorkelled for an hour Jackie’s confidence improved and she could be heard humming “Bobbin’ Along” through her snorkel.

Eventually we had enough and climbed out of the water to tidy up for the return trip. The tide had risen slightly and the water was a little deeper but it was still possible to wade. We made it back to shore by holding our bags on our shoulders and then putting our towels on the seats of the hire car drove back to the caravan site. Then it was showers to wash off the salt water and wash the swimming kit before settling down to afternoon tea. We spent the rest of the evening talking to some of the locals and cooling down.

Monday 16th February 2009
Rockingham
32°C Sunny

Waking up this morning with stiff muscles, an hour of wading in waist deep water and a couple of hours swimming took more than we realised yesterday. We decided to go into Fremantle shopping. Arriving in Freo we were disappointed thatThe Shed Market wasn’t on so we made do with the normal shops before using an internet booth to upload some photos. Then coffee before returning to Rockingham. The new part for the Troopy had arrived at the Toyota dealer so we picked that up and nipped in to the battery shop. What a surprise both batteries were defective so we purchased two new ones with a years warranty.

Returning to the caravan park we had lunch before we fitted the new batteries and relay. Key in ignition, the moment of truth – she started, Hooray. We had a cup of tea and a piece of cake to celebrate then took the Troopy up to the battery shop as they had promised to test the vehicles charging circuit for us. It got a clean bill of health so we are back on the road tomorrow. It’s been nice in Rockingham but the itchy feet have started and its time to move on. So it was off to the supermarket to stock up the provisions and then back and fill the Troopies water tank. Then an hour returning things to their correct stowage’s ready for the morning. Then dinner and bed excited about seeing somewhere new.

Tuesday 17th February 2009
Rockingham
38°C Sunny

Time to move on, returning the hire car this morning, a swift walk back to the caravan park and breakfast. We said goodbye to the people we had met over the last four days and packed the Troopy. Driving out of the park felt good and we drove to the nearest car parts shop to buy some spare hoses and fan belts to put under the seat in case of emergency. Then driving through Perth and out to the north east. An hours drive brought us to Noble Falls a nice picnic area. We stopped for lunch and decided although it was nice it was too near the road and we wanted to get out into the bush and see some animals.

So we drove on and turned off into Avon Valley National Park. We drove around the four possible camp areas until we settled on Bald Hill. As we drove we came across kangaroo and emu on the road. Getting to Bald Hill we set up camp and watched the birds for a while. We decided to go for a walk to the top of the hill and look at the view, bush as far as you can see. On the way down we walked a short distance down a side track and found a kangaroo under a Black Boy (Grass Palm). He wasn’t too impressed at having his afternoon nap disturbed by a couple of tourists and banged his chest with his front paws. Snapping a quick photo we backed away up the path and returned to the Troopy for afternoon tea.

Wednesday 18th February 2009
Bald Hill
34° Sunny

Due to the trees the sun didn’t wake us as usual at six o’clock. It was eight o’clock before we got up, but no worries we are in a national park and there is no checkout time. We packed up and drove out of the park. Tomtom was having a hissy fit and wouldn’t start so we drove towards the nearest town on our planned route. We arrived in Northam at eleven o’clock and went shopping for some food items we needed. At lunch time we parked by the River Avon and had a picnic. Then we walked across a pedestrian suspension bridge (The longest in Australia) before looking for the white swans they have here. Back in the Troopy we discussed our options and decided on a route change.

We have covered the Perth area so we will head back out to Kalgoorlie and then head north in a loop back to Perth. By the time we have done that it will be time for us to head north up the coast. Driving towards Kalgoorlie we passed through Southern Cross and turned north to a place called Karalee Rocks. There are two large granite outcrops that the company building the railway back in the 1900s placed a wall around and collected the water runoff into sluices and into a dam. The equipment is still here even though the railway no longer need the water. We went for a walk and looked at the sluices and read the information. The water is a magnet for wildlife so we might see some more animals tonight as we sip our drinks as the sun goes down. As it got dark we saw bats flying low over our heads on their way out hunting.
Thursday 19th February 2009
Karalee Rocks
36°C Sunny

Leaving our overnight rest we headed into Kalgoorlie to shop and replenish diesel, water and cooking gas. With that done we left town and drove north to Rowles Lagoon. We had stopped here for lunch the last time we were in the area so decided to overnight this time. Setting up camp we went for a walk and found slither marks made by snakes so decided that we will not walk around in the dark later. The lagoon is a pretty deep pink colour, to think we had driven around a lake near Esperance looking at their slightly pink in one place lake.
Friday 20th February 2009
Rowles Lagoon
24°C Sunny

Leaving Rowles Lagoon we stayed in the gravel road and headed north to Lake Ballard. Stopping here for lunch we walked out on to the salt lake to look at the figures. This is “Inside Australia”, an art installation by Antony Gormley a British artist and consists of 51 figures dotted around the ten square kilometres. They are based on laser scans of the people of the nearby town of Menzies and a few tourists. As it was quite hot we only looked at a couple before retiring to the air-conditioned comfort of the Troopy.

Leaving Lake Ballard and heading back to the main road we were 300 metres from the tarmac when we got a puncture. We managed to change the wheel as the tyre had been running flat and the sidewall looked stressed. With that done we continued on to Niagara Dam and our nights halt. Setting up camp in the shadow of the dam we settled in. We plugged the leak in the punctured tyre and re-inflated it. It will do as an emergency spare but we will replace it as soon as we get into a decent sized town. With the sun dropping in the sky it was time for a walk before dinner and bed.

Saturday 21st February 2009
Niagara Dam
42°C Sunny

Leaving Niagara and heading north, we stuck to the gravel road rather than returning to the tarmac highway. We had to slow rapidly and move across the road to avoid a four foot long sand monitor who was crossing the road. Dodging through the road works and past the water spraying tanker we arrived in Loenora where we uploaded to the web site and downloaded some emails. At the local supermarket we stocked up on the most important travelling commodity (Werthers Originals) as we were nearly out and had been on half rations for all of yesterday. Back on the highway we continued north to Leinster, here we turned west. Driving along this quieter road we came across a couple of emu sauntering across the road, we slowed right down as they are quite stupid and will run back into the road at the last minute. As we drew near they suddenly ran off into the bush. On the way again we arrived in Sandstone and turned off the main road for four kilometres to London Bridge. This is a sandstone arch large enough to walk under and when it was first discovered it was possible to drive a pony and trap over it. It is quite a bit thinner now and is not safe to walk on so we made do with some photos and lunch. We disturbed a mob of kangaroo who were resting in the shade of the arch and they bounded away, no doubt they will return as soon as we leave.

Back on the road we saw something emerge from the bush and start to cross the road. We were not sure what it was at first, it didn’t move right for either kangaroo or emu. As we got closer we realised they were feral goats. We had heard some a couple of nights ago but didn’t think we would see any as they are hunted as an introduced species. After driving for five and a half hours we arrived at our stop for the night. The book said that there was a track from the rest area to quieter areas to camp. The book was right and we wound our way between rocks and trees until we found a nice clearing where we could park facing the sun and put up the awning. It is very hot and we need the shade and lots to drink. When the sun sets we will cook dinner and then settle down for the night.

Sunday 22nd February 2009
35 km from Mt Magnet and just North of the Sandstone to Mt Magnet road
43°C Sunny

We woke at three o’clock this morning covered in sweat. The cloud cover had kept the heat in and the humidity up the thermometer said it was 32 degrees. After a while we managed to get back to sleep. At seven o’clock we got up as the temperature had dropped into the high twenties but the sun was rising so it wouldn’t stay that cool for long. Breakfast in the only shade we could find then pack up and hit the road. Three quarters of an hour later we were in Mt Magnet and stopped at the roadhouse for diesel. We sat in the roadhouse and drank coffee for an hour enjoying the cool of their air conditioning and looking at the television for the first time in three weeks. The coffee for the driver is free so we only had to pay for one cup. There were a large number of crickets on the Troopy when we left and we had to stop a couple of km down the road to evict the more stubborn examples who wouldn’t get off even at 110 kph. Continuing south past Panes Find we stopped at a nice rest area and ate our cheese rolls for lunch.

Four hundred metres after the rest area was our turn off. Turning on to the gravel road we drove out passing a station, a couple of homesteads and over ten cattle grids before turning north on “Rabbit Proof Fence Road”. We were driving along the gravel road at 100 kph when an emu walked out across the road about 80 metres ahead of us. We braked quickly and another emu wandered out after the first. Once they were clear we drove on and 17 km later we turned into “Camel Soak”. This is another granite dome protruding from the otherwise flat land into which a square ‘soak’ had been cut. The rain water runs down the rock and collects in the soak. This was made for the men and camels building the second rabbit proof fence. The sun was very hot this afternoon and the wind felt like the oven door had just been opened. Fortunately we had parked facing west and erected the awning so were able to sit in the shade and have afternoon tea and biscuits.

In late afternoon we went for a walk and looked at the soak and the rock. The soak is about 12 foot by 12 foot and full of life. The pond skating insects were being eaten by fishes that came up from the bottom and then dropped straight back down again. We also saw a water spider moving upside-down just under the water before righting itself and crawling out on to a rock then walking back down the rock and under the water. Returning to the Troopy with the sun setting and the wind blowing it looks like tonight will be a little more comfortable than last night. The galahs were wheeling overhead and chirping loudly before settling in the tree beside us. the crows were cawing and the little finches were twittering away. All in all a lovely setting and we have it to ourselves.

Monday 23rd February 2009
Camel Soak
38°C Sunny

Waking rested after a very comfortable night we moved on. Driving towards our first possible site for tonight we came to New Norcia, this is a Benedictine community and most of the buildings are on the heritage register. We stopped for lunch but their caravan park was very open and had several caravans in it already. Continuing on we arrived at a road works. Driving through at 40kph we soon came to another. Within 30 kilometres we had passed through six work sites. At the seventh we pulled up at the man with the stop sign and opened the window. He walked over and said sorry but it will be at least ten minutes before we go as a lorry was dumping its load of road stone. We were talking and he said that there were another three work areas ahead of us and the last one would take ages as it was the largest. When we told him where we were going he told us to take the turning just behind us to get around the works. So we did a u-ee and were on our way thanking him as we went.

Arriving at the rest area we decided to move on as it was very close to the road and the traffic was quite heavy due to the works on the other road. We continued on to an alternate site. This one is five hundred metres from the road and more shaded. We set up home after levelling the Troopy using a convenient rock and the lump of wood we carry for the purpose. Then as it was a nice afternoon it was time for housekeeping. Up went the line and Jackie went into washing mode. There was water and soapsuds everywhere, but soon the laundry was drying on the line and it was time for afternoon tea. This site isn’t as nice as some but it is close to Perth and we need to get new tyres on the Troopy and restock our provisions in the morning.

Tuesday 24th February 2009
Eadine Springs
32°C Sunny

Last night as we were eating dinner a herd of feral goats came wandering through our camp site. They all stopped and looked at us, as if to say “What are you doing in our space?” and then with a few bleats wandered off again. Shopping today in Midland a suburb of Perth. UHF radio (for assistance and information in remote areas), Tyrepliars (Tyre changing kit) and a roof tyre stowage (for a spare tyre) for the Troopy. We ordered four new tyres for fitting tomorrow then had lunch in town. We also paid the fee for a years Rego on the Troopy (had to get cash out of the ATM as there was a charge for using the card in the bank), so we are legal for the rest of our trip. The afternoon was spent wandering around the shops and picking up some bits and pieces. Jackie visited the doctor to get some more of her medication (A$50 for the consultation and A$40 for a months worth of pills), makes you appreciate the National Health. Then dinner in town before driving back out to our camp site. We will be back in Midland again in the morning for the tyres and then we can continue our odyssey.

Wednesday 25th February 2009
Eadine Springs
24°C Rainy

Up and into town for the new tyres. Having dropped the Troopy off we wandered around the local shopping centre. After lunch and with the weeks shopping done the Troopy was ready, so we filled up with diesel and topped up an empty LPG cylinder. As it was getting on we decided to return to last nights camp site and set off in the morning. The third spare tyre (tyre only – no rim) was now on the roof but when we got to the camp site the roof wouldn’t stay up with the weight of the tyre on it. Having removed the tyre the roof went up and we sat indoors as it was raining quite hard. The tyre was lashed onto the front roo bar with three nylon straps. We also added two bike locks as a secondary restraint in case the nylon straps break. Just before dusk the rain stopped and we slept well as it was a lovely cool night.

Thursday 26th February 2009
Eadine Springs
32°C Sunny

Leaving Eadine Springs for the last time the sun is shining again. We drove in towards Perth and out to the north. Arriving at Yanchep National Park at lunch time. The ten dollars entry fee we did not have to pay as it is covered by our one year pass. We walked around the area where their colony of koalas live and saw a few before finding a nice shady picnic bench for lunch. There was a tap nearby so we filled up our extra water containers so we can do the laundry without touching the vehicles water tank. Leaving Yanchep and looking for a nights stop, the first possible had brand new “No Camping” signs so we moved on. At Cataby we turned off of the road just north of the roadhouse and stopped alongside the creek (no water) and set up camp. The afternoon was spent on laundry and personal pampering and sitting under the shade of the gum trees sipping tea.

Friday 27th February 2009
Cataby
34°C Sunny

Four o’clock in the morning, wide awake. About fifty corellas in the trees all around us squawking away and the crows a short distance away cawing. We tried to go back to sleep but no luck. After breakfast we drove to Lancelin, a nice town near the sea. Having found that the Troopy’s front left headlight had taken a stone yesterday we popped into a car parts shop with little hope. Expecting the “We can order it and it will be here next week.” We were pleasantly surprised to find they had one in stock. (The advantage of driving one of the most common vehicles in the outback). We were even more surprised at the price A$17 (£8). With the new light, two full tanks of diesel and a full tank of water we drove on. We had hoped to drive up the costal track but we couldn’t find the start so had to return to the gravel roads and highway.

After stopping for lunch we arrived at the Pinnacles. My how things have changed. The last time we were here the 16km approach road was gravel, now tarmac, the entry was a pole barrier and a wooden shed. Now a purpose built entry station leads into a tarmac parking area. Toilets and a massive interpretive centre have also been built. We were still allowed to drive around the pinnacles but we suspect that this may change soon. The pinnacles themselves have changed little and it was pleasant remembering the previous visits. First with Steph aged eight and then with Steph and Elaine in 2002. Leaving the Pinnacles we drove to our nights stop. Turning off the road just after a bridge over a dry river we drove down a steep bank and wound through the trees to a secluded spot near the river (Not in it). As we drove Jackie shouted “Kangaroo Stop!” and we stopped sharply, just missing the kangaroo that bounced out of the bush beside us, hopped across the track and was gone. After that near miss it was time to set up camp and relax until bed time. Maybe Mr Kangaroo will pop in tonight for a visit… Mr Kangaroo didn’t but a few thousand ants of the large biting variety did. It was touch and go for a while but with the use of Raid (Insect Spray) we managed to keep the area we sit in relatively clear. After an initial battle the ants decided to use a different route and we watched them marching back and forward past our chairs.

Saturday 28th February 2009
Hill River Bridge
36°C Sunny with a patch of rain from nowhere

This morning as we were packing up the ants were again encroaching into our area but we just worked around then as we put things away. Leaving back up the steep bank and back on to the road. We drove into Jurien Bay to shop for bread milk before heading north. Just short of Geraldton we turned off the main road and twenty kilometres later arrived at Ellendale Pool. The camp site costs A$5 per vehicle per night so we filled out the envelope provided and placing our money in it posted it in the honesty box.

The site was very nice. A sandstone escarpment drops down to a deep pool in the river. The water was nice and cool so we went for a swim. Then we watched the youngsters jumping off the cliff face into the water. Just before sunset most of the people left leaving just us and two other couples. Looks like being a nice night. Steak and salad for dinner cooked on another free BBQ, followed by drinks as the stars came out and the cicadas sang.

Sunday 1st March 2009
Ellendale Pool
24°C Cloudy
White Rabbits, White Rabbits (No - I don’t know why.)

Waking up to the sound of early morning swimmers, we decided not to brave the water ourselves and had a leisurely breakfast. After packing up we drove out and into Geraldton. Visiting the Tourist Information and the Memorial to HMAS Perth, we then took a walk down the high street. All the shops were closed but there was a market on. We spent some time browsing before stopping for a nice cup of coffee. Then back in the Troopy and after filling our water containers for washing later we left town. While we were filling our containers we had a grandstand seat of some lad being pulled by the police (Oh dear that is his weekend spoilt – double demerits on a holiday weekend).

Driving to Coronation Beach our first choice for tonight, we were surprised to find that the gravel road mentioned in the guide had been sealed all the way. That always makes places easier to get to and thus more popular. Sure enough the place was mobbed, partially due to the sealed road but also due to the holiday weekend. We had the same problem Australia Day weekend. So off to our second choice a roadside rest area set back from the road. No one here but us, probably because if this was your only option for a holiday you would go home. Still it suits us and setting up camp we got the last of the laundry done and then watched the traffic going by.

Monday 2nd March 2009
Oakabella Rest Area
30°C Cloudy with showers

After a nice cool night the rain started, the first we knew was Martin getting a little wet before we woke up and closed the flaps. As the rain was still falling at breakfast we ate inside before moving on. Driving north again we turned off the main road towards Kalbari. The traffic was busy coming towards us, boats, campers and caravans. Looks like people are heading home early on the holiday Monday due to the weather. We arrived in Kalbari and visited the tourist information bureau. There is a nice site in the national park so we decided to drive out and see.

Twenty seven kilometres of corrugated gravel road later we arrived at Natures Window. A five hundred metre down hill walk and scramble around a rock face got us to the window. This is a hole in the rock face that the river 70 metres below can be seen through. Well worth the walk and drive. We are our rolls at the BBQ site near the car park, then drove back out of the park and on to our overnight stop. We camped at a place called Galena Bridge. This is the old bridge that has been bypassed by the new road. The new bridge is about twenty metres higher than the old as the old got flooded for days at a time in the rainy season.

During the afternoon we watched the black swans and cormorants on the river. We wore our fly nets this afternoon as the flies were persistent in trying to climb in our ears, up our noses, on our eyes and in our mouths. With the nets the constant tickling of flies landing on our arms and legs was just a minor nuisance. In the evening the wind picked up and we were buffeted all night which kept the temperature down but kept waking us up.

Tuesday 3rd March 2009
Galena Bridge
33°C Sunny

Leaving the rest area and rejoining the main road we again headed north. We have decided as the Troopy needs a service again we will head for Carnarvon as it is a larger town than Denham. We have visited Monkey Mia twice before so are not missing anything. Stopping at the Overlander Road House for fuel, nothing has changed since we came here fifteen years ago. Driving on we turned off the main road on to a dirt track that led to a camp spot. We were looking to see if it was worth coming back to after booking the Troopy in. Whilst free there was no shade or privacy we could see all the caravans parked from the road so we decided to stay in Carnarvon for the night.

Driving into Carnarvon we took the alternate route, along the memorial road for the crew of the HMAS Sydney. There are palm trees planted all along both sides of the road each one dedicated to a dead serviceman. In Carnarvon we found a garage that can service the Troopy tomorrow and then a caravan park where we can stay. Having shopped we returned to the park and used the swimming pool. Lovely clear water and cool almost cold as it has a cover to stop the sun warming it. Very refreshing. Jackie having taken off her glasses walked down the steps into the water. On the second step she slipped and went straight into the water, no gentle lowering in to the cold water – just splash. Fortunately she wasn’t hurt and we enjoyed a cooling swim. Then with the laundry done we used the BBQ to cook diner before relaxing for the evening.

Wednesday 4th March 2009
Carnarvon
34°C 68% Humidity Sunny with some clouds

Early rising today for two reasons, one the Troopy needs to be at the garage for its service by eight o’clock and two it was so hot and humid by six o’clock we were in the showers trying to cool off. Dropping the Troopy in at the garage we sat in town and had breakfast before walking around town and the sea front. At midday the garage called the Troopy was done. When we got to the garage they told us they had found a problem. The rear diff housing has a crack in it, we were upset that we had another issue to deal with but happy that there WAS a problem with the diff after all. Even though the last garage had told us that there was nothing wrong with the diff and it had just been overfilled. We will have to return to the garage tomorrow to see what can be done.

Leaving town after shopping for food we drove out to Quobba Point for the night. The camp site is in the dunes just behind the beach so hopefully tonight we will have a nice sea breeze to cool us. We walked on the beach and saw lots of small crabs emerging from their holes and then ducking back in when a wave rolled over their holes. There was also the sign that a turtle had laid its eggs on the beach recently. We could see the track of it coming out of the water then four different digs and the return track to the ocean. The tracks were all sharp and fresh so it couldn’t have been more than a day old.

Thursday 5th March 2009
Quobba Point
38°C Sunny

Returning the 75 km to Carnarvon today to see if the diff can be replaced or fixed. While the mechanic was phoning around we spent the day sight seeing. We visited all the local “Must Sees”, the large satellite communications dish, the hot spring and the whale bone arch. The rest of the time we sat in the park and hanging out in the coffee shops and mall. At four o’clock we found out that the nearest place we would get a replacement was to have it shipped in from Melbourne. Oh well plan two, stock up on diff oil and check and fill as we go. Driving back out to Quobba Point for the night we found last nights spot un-occupied and settled in. We took our chairs on to the beach and watched the crabs as the sun set. When the stars came out we returned to the Troopy for the night, the sea breeze was picking up so it should be a good night.

Friday 6th March 2009
Quobba Point
40°C Sunny

Driving out of Quobba we had to stop to allow a large goanna to cross the road. He wasn’t in a particular hurry so we had to wait. Eventually he cleared the road and we were on our way. Out to the main road and turn north. After an hour and a half we arrived at Minilya Bridge Road House. Stopping for fuel and a comfort break we were pleasantly surprised by the nice, clean facilities. Suitably refreshed we were back on our way. Just after the turn off for Exmouth we stopped at a rest area for lunch and then moved on straight away.

The road to Exmouth seemed endless two hundred kilometres with very little change Endless scrub with termite mounds dotted all over. After an hour we started to think that they all looked like silver back gorillas sat with their backs to us. Eventually we arrived in Exmouth and as free camping is not allowed we booked into a caravan park for the night. We will drive out to the National Park in the morning and check out the camping there. With the laundry on it was time for a nice dip in the pool. Refreshed we showered and put on clean clothes as we will use the camp kitchens free BBQ for dinner tonight.

As we were sat relaxing in the shade an emu chick and its dad came wandering through right past us. Jackie nipped in to the Troopy get the camera. As she came out the He-mu had wandered back and they came face to face. Who was the most surprised? Jackie nearly fell down the steps and the He-mu made a booming noise in its throat and wandered off again. We were just relaxing after that excitement when a corella landed on our awning right above our heads and screeched as loud as it could. We nearly wet ourselves first with shock and then laughter. Preparing for dinner we wondered what else will happen tonight.

Saturday 7th March 2009
Exmouth
40°C Sunny

Waking after a very warm and humid night we showered and dressed before breakfast. Dinner last night was a battle there were at least two tour parties using the camp kitchen and BBQ. We cooked our dinner but the scrum of tourists was something we are not used to any more. We were glad to retire to our home on wheels as soon as possible after washing up the dinner things.

Leaving the caravan park we headed north out of Exmouth and looping around the naval station we were soon driving south down the other side of the peninsula. We found a nice spot at the Lakeside Camp in Ningaloo National Park and leaving our tent to secure our spot we returned to the visitor centre to pay the nights camping fee. Back at the camp site we set up and changed into our swimmers. Walking the thirty metres to the beach and then a couple of hundred along it we entered the water. With our goggles and snorkels on, we swam out to the reef that starts only about ten metres off the beach.

We had a wonderful time looking at so many species of fish. There we a lot of sea cucumbers, crabs and clams. We would swim south parallel to the beach and then out twenty metres over the coral before, allowing the current to drift us back to our start point. We were able to sneak up on the unsuspecting fish and have a good look before they knew we were there. After an hour we were tired and hungry so returned to the Troopy for a fresh water rinse and lunch. The afternoon we spent sitting in the shade of our awning watching the kangaroos hiding under the bushes opposite us. They were doing the same as us, afternoon siesta.

As the afternoon got hotter we decided to swim again. Back in the water the tide had changed and the waves were a little bigger and the water was slightly cloudier than this morning but still very nice. We swam over a weed patch and saw different species of fish. Jackie saw a reef shark but it swam away before Martin could see it. After a while we returned to the Troopy for a light dinner and drinks before bed.

Sunday 8th March 2009
Lakeside Ningaloo Reef
40°C Sunny

Waking at seven o’clock this morning very warm we decided to go for an early morning swim. The water was as still as a mill pond and just cool enough to be refreshing without chill. We splashed around for some time before drying off and having breakfast. We wanted to try a few other snorkelling spots down the coast. So leaving out cheap tent and our table and chairs to guard our camping spot we set off. Just off the road we saw several emu with their necks stretched up as high as possible, probably enjoying the morning sun. As they were not running in the road we didn’t worry about them and carried on.

A short distance south we came to Turquoise Bay. There are two snorkelling spots here. The first we tried was the drift snorkel. Leaving the Troopy we walked about 500 metres south down the coast before entering the water and swimming out the twenty metres to the reef. Then we just relaxed and allowed the current to carry us back up the coast parallel to the beach. It was absolutely magic, thousands of fish appeared in front of us and we drifted over the top of them. Occasionally there was something really interesting and we would swim around in a circle to watch it for longer before drifting on. After nearly an hour we climbed out for a rest. Then we walked around a sand spit to the other spot and swam out into the bay to some coral and saw fish digging holes in the sand under the coral.

Feeling tired and hungry we left the water and returned to the Troopy. Leaving our swimmers on a short drive brought us to Yardie Creek and a nice picnic bench where we had lunch. On the return trip to our camp site we stopped in at a spot called the Oyster Stacks and went for another swim. There were some really large fish and lovely colourful coral. We found a large clam that closed when water was wafted towards it. As there was nowhere to stop and take a breather due to the coral and as we were quite tired after all the swimming we had done we decided it was time to have a rest. Returning to our camp spot we rinsed off in fresh water and chilled out for a few hours.

At about four o’clock we decided to go for one last dip. The waves were large again and the water cloudy but we swam around for a while enjoying the fish and cooling off. This time Martin saw the shark that Jackie had seen yesterday. We had identified it on the park office chart as a White Tipped Reef Shark when we called in to pay our camping fee this morning. Then exhausted by all our snorkelling it was time to return to our camp for the evening.

Monday 9th March 2009
Lakeside Ningaloo Reef
42°C Sunny

Awake early again this morning so breakfast and stow the Troopy for driving, leaving our tent (the German towel) to keep our parking spot we headed back to Turquoise Bay. Arriving first at the beach we walked along to our start point and entered the water. The sea was very calm and no waves entered the reef so conditions were perfect.

The drift was even better than yesterday probably because we knew what to expect and could take in more than just the largest, brightest fish. In amongst the coral was a black cat fish with really long whiskers. At the end as we were swimming back to shore we saw a blue spotted stingray swimming close to the sandy bottom. Remembering Steve Irwin we kept our distance and enjoyed the sight.

Getting out of the water we decided to walk back and swim again. As we were swimming out to start the second drift we came across a loggerhead turtle swimming along. We stopped swimming and just floated breathing through our snorkels. The turtle swam past us as close as six feet away then turned and swam back past us even closer as if he was watching us as we were watching him. After a few minutes he disappeared and we continued out to the start of the drift. We enjoyed the fish again and just as we were about to leave the water we spotted another turtle and watched him swim effortlessly by. Turtles look so clumsy when seen on the beach but so graceful underwater.

After rinsing of in the car park and changing we drove into Exmouth for water, fuel and food. We need all three as we are extending our stay here. On the return trip to our camp site we drove up to the lighthouse and ate our lunch whilst looking at the view over Ningaloo Reef and Exmouth. Returning to the camp site we relaxed for a few hours before snorkelling again. We walked further down the coast and swam out to some coral further off shore. The waves were about two feet and we were being bounced around a bit and every now and then the waves would splash water down our snorkels. This is our most challenging swim so far but it’s worth it the coral and fish are spectacular. We swam over a very large stingray and could see the barb in it’s tail. We stayed well clear and had a good look. After about half an hour we were getting tired so we swam back to the beach through gaps in the coral with the waves breaking in the top of the reef either side of us. The walk back to the camp site seemed twice as far as the walk out but we eventually made it back. Then after cleaning up it was time for tea and cake. Later as the sun set we walked along the beach and watched the plovers and white crabs catching their supper at the waters edge.

Tuesday 10th March 2009
Lakeside Ningaloo Reef
38°C Sunny

Up and out early again this morning, walk down the coast for a swim. Unfortunately conditions we not at their best so we only swam for about 15 minutes. After rinsing in fresh water and changing we left the German towel and drove out. South to Yardie Creek, the border of the national park. We had booked on a boat tour up the creek. As it is still very early in the season here there were only us and six others so there was plenty of room on the boat. During the slow chug up the creek we saw a euro kangaroo licking salt off of the leaves of the mangrove trees, and lots of plants. The commentary by the boat driver was very informative and the boat had a shade so it was a very relaxing hour.

When we returned to the dock we drove the Troopy to a local gorge and ate our lunch before returning to our camp site. Having put up the awning we settled down for the afternoon. We went swimming twice during the afternoon to cool down. It was lovely to float on our backs in the shallow sea looking up at the clear blue sky and be rocked by the very small waves that entered the bay. We almost fell asleep it was so relaxing. Strolling (ouch hot sand) back to the Troopy we watched people come and go as we relaxed after a hectic day.

Wednesday 11th March 2009
Lakeside Ningaloo Reef
37°C Sunny

As today is our last full day at Ningaloo Reef we got up early to ensure that we could do the Turquoise Bay drift snorkel in peace as the tour busses arrive at ten o’clock. We were the only people on the beach and having walked out to our start point we set off. The water today was slightly cloudy as tonight is the full moon and the coral spawns. We enjoyed the drift and saw another turtle. As we arrived at our exit point we saw a large number of large fish feeding on a piece of coral. Having got back to the beach we decided to do another drift and walked back to the start point. This was our last drift as the tour busses would be arriving by the time we finished this run. We swam a little further out this time to see a different swathe of reef. As we neared the exit point we saw a large round coral on the sand. Looking again we realised that the coral had a head. This wasn’t a coral it was a fully mature loggerhead turtle sitting on the sand at the bottom. His shell was at least six feet from front to rear. As we watched he launched himself off of the bottom and with a slow scull of his front flippers he drifted effortlessly away. We climbed out of the water absolutely stunned, we couldn’t believe the size of that turtle, we still can’t.

Leaving Turquoise Bay and driving back to our campsite we came across a camper van stopped at the side of the road and stopped to see if they needed help. It turned out they did, driving out of the parking area they had got a large rock wedged between their twin rear wheels. Having got their jack out the found that the hire company had only provided a small open-ended spanner as a wheel brace and they couldn’t undo the wheel nuts to get the rock out. Using our tools we undid the wheel, splitting one socket as the nuts were so tight and soon had the rock out and we were back on our way. We spent the hot afternoon sitting in the shade of our awning and walking across the beach and sitting in the sea to cool down every couple of hours.

At about two o’clock we had an influx of small white hire cars. Five almost identical cars pulled in and people started wandering around. One couple came over and spoke to us, turns out that a cruise ship had just arrived in Exmouth for the day and they were all off of the ship. They asked us about our camper, took photos and video of the surfer / hippy / new age traveller types. Some were disappointed to find out we were not genuine Australians. They said that they had been cruising around Australia and still not seen a kangaroo. Jackie said “Well there is normally one under that bush over there (pointing to the other side of the lake) and you can see his ears, And I’m sure that there are at least three more under the bushes”. Shortly after there were tourists wandering around the lake and kangaroos hopping everywhere. The tourists were very happy having seen a kangaroo, we don’t think the kangaroos were too impressed as they had to find another bush to sleep under. After a couple of hours the tourists all got back in to their cars to return to the ship, no doubt with stories to tell at dinner tonight.

Thursday 12th March 2009
Lakeside Ningaloo Reef
40° C Sunny

Back into routine again this morning breakfast and pack the Troopy for the road. Driving out of Ningaloo National Park was a wrench, the sea view all the way to the top of the peninsular and the lighthouse were beautiful. Turning south we drove into Exmouth to replenish with water and food. The water supply is a tap outside the tourist information office. While we were filling up we bumped into some people we met six weeks ago. They are on a shorter time frame than us and are on their way back to Perth. As they are stopping at Ningaloo on their last leg home we gave then the inside information we had picked up over the last five days. At last we were ready and heading south out of Exmouth. We drove south until we came to the road that cuts across the corner to join the Great North-eastern Highway. Then turning north east towards Katharra.

Stopping for lunch we discussed out route and realised we would miss Karijini National Park and as so many of our fellow travellers have raved about how nice it is we decided to change plans and head there. We filled with diesel and asked about road conditions at the road house and were told that all the roads to the park are open, but to check with the park information when we got their as to the state of the park roads. Turning off of the main road we drove until half four when we arrived at a 24 hour rest area. It is set back from the road which is quiet anyway. Setting up camp with no one else around is nice after the busy Lakeside camp site. After a light dinner it was time for bed.

Friday 13th March 2009
Beasley River Rest Area
41°C Sunny

After a nice quiet night we woke and got on the road again. Driving through Tom Price (the highest town in Western Australia) we arrived at Karijini National Park. Finding the camp site was easy and after a chat with one of the rangers we selected our camp site and placed our chairs and table. Eating lunch we decided to go for a swim. A short drive later we were at Fortescue Falls car park and after creaming up, with swimmers, towels and two litres of water we were off. The “Track” to the falls is 500 metres, all very steeply down hill. The steps are rough cut in the rock face or lumps of rock placed as steps. Some quite large steps, every now and then a steel pin has been driven into the rock and a wire mesh had been strung as a safety fence.

It was worth the scramble, we had the pool under the waterfall to ourselves. The water was lovely and cool. Swimming to the falls we sat under the falling water and cooled off for a while. The rock in the gorge wall is layered slightly off the horizontal and where it meets the water it makes the water look as if it slopes. It’s quite strange to swim in a pool that looks as if it is sloping down hill. After a relaxing swim we dressed and commenced the climb back to the car. Fortunately our side of the gorge was in shadow and we arrived safely at the top. When we got back to the Troopy a dingo was waiting for us, sitting in the shade and watching. With the aircon running we drove back to the camp site and set up our shade for the afternoon. After a lovely cool evening we retired to bed. After an hour we were woken by dingoes howling in the night. Shortly after we saw a dingo pad across the road towards us and walk down the side of the Troopy before disappearing into the grass.

Saturday 14th March 2009
Karijini National Park
43°C Sunny

The trees behind us protected us from the early morning sun so we had a lay in until eight o’clock. Then packing up we drove through the park to Kalamina Gorge. Parking and creaming up we walked towards the edge of the gorge carrying loads of water. We arrived at the edge and looked down at the water one hundred feet below, what a spectacular sight and we are going down there. We then looked for the path down, having failed to find a path that ran more than ten metres we returned to the edge. Jackie spotted a small piece of ribbon tied to a bush just along the edge. As we walked to the bush we found the first of the steps. They couldn’t be seen from more than 5 metres away. The steps were the same as yesterday either hewn out of the rock or rocks cemented into place to form steps. Fortunately the steps were not so close to sheer drops and there was no need for the rock pins.

Arriving at the gorge floor we turned down stream and walked along by the stream. In places the rock was as smooth as pavement in others we had to cross piles of fallen stone. In a few places we had to inch along ledges three inches wide just above the water. After one and a half kilometres we got to the pool at the end. The water looked a little stagnant so we decided not to swim. Retracing our steps the point we came down we continued upstream to the waterfall. This time the “track” was harder we had to climb up and down to find ledges as there was no way through at the bottom of the gorge. Fortunately it was only about fifty metres to the falls. At one point we had to inch around a rock jutting out from the rock face at waist height whilst standing on a ledge only two inches wide. Wetting ourselves down with the water from the falls to cool down we made the return journey and climbed up the stairs to the car.

We then drove to Joffre Falls and looked at the falls from the lookout before having lunch. Then completely exhausted we drove the 30 kilometres of dirt road back to the camp site to rest and cool down.

Sunday 15th March 2009
Karijini National Park
44°C Sunny

Time to move on again. Leaving Karijini, as we drove out of the park we came across a snake sunning it’s self on the road. A quick check of our animal charts told us that it was a carpet python and non venomous, Ha ! we still didn’t get out of the car. After taking a photo the next stop was the roadhouse where we filled up with fuel. We then drove north towards the coast and Port Hedland. Our first choice of a camp site does not exist anymore, the station owners now have a caravan park as part of their “station stay” and have got rid of the free camp site. Driving on arriving at the main North Eastern Highway we turned west away from Port Hedland for twenty kilometres to our alternate. A spot called Yule River, pulling off the road just before the bridge over the river we drove down to the picnic / camping area by the river in the shadow of the bridge. It was obvious from the start that it was a popular spot with the locals as there were many cars parked around the area and family groups swimming and sitting around camp fires. We found a suitable spot and set up camp.

The afternoon was very hot and we were glad of the shade our awning provided. As the afternoon ended the groups left one after another until only we were left. One of the last to leave closed the gate to the area. Just before dark another camper van pulled up to the gate. As they sat there for quite a while we could guess the conversation going on “Well the book says it is a camp site”. “Yes but the gate is shut”, Oh look there is a camper already in there lets go in”. Eventually they opened the gate drove in and shut the gate behind them. We had a nice quiet night listening to the road trains passing over the bridge and managed to get to sleep at midnight when the temperature finally dropped into the low thirties.

Monday 16th March 2009
Yule River
43°C Sunny

Leaving Yule river we drove into South Hedland, a town 20 km south of Port Hedland. We shopped for food and wandered around the mall. Then we drove north to Port Hedland. As we drove in we passed the ore trains coming up from the Tom Price iron mine. These trains are in the record books as the longest trains in the world. The one we saw had at least eighty wagons. In town we filled the water tanks and had a nice dinner. We didn’t get all our chores done as Port Hedland doesn’t have the shops we need. We will have to try again in Broome in a few days. Leaving Port Hedland we continued along the main road.

Looking for a night stop. Our first choice sounded nice and the camp fee would be paid to the ranger. Unfortunately it wasn’t a national park and we would have to pay the park entry fee as well as the camping fee and that would be almost as much as a powered camp site. Driving on our next option was a free site at the side of the road. When we arrived we had to drive through a knocked down fence. Feeling we were trespassing made us uncomfortable about staying the night so we left. The afternoon was getting on and the next free site was two hours drive away we decided to have a powered camp site as there was a caravan park close by. Paying the fee we put on a load of washing and had showers. Feeling nice and clean if sweaty due to the humidity we sat and enjoyed the afternoon breeze. At sunset a couple of thunder storms erupted and gave a good lightning display but no rain fell. The evening breeze gave us hope of a cooler night than last night.

Tuesday 17th March 2009
80 Mile Beach
38°C Sunny

Having paid for the caravan park we had another shower this morning and packed up. Driving out we headed towards Broome with a planned roadside stop 25 kilometres before. When we arrived at the stop at lunch time we were not to comfortable. We had ten hours ‘til bed time and nothing to look at as it was a very small rest area. Having eaten lunch we decided to drive on into Broome. In Broome we found a garage with a competent welder and booked the Troopy in to have the crack in the rear diff welded up. Then after short drive around town we headed north up the coast.

Taking the road towards Cape Levaque we turned off towards Quondong Point. The road got sandier and rougher until the last 500 metres were very rough and with some steep washed out sections. Arriving at the point we found a nice spot and set up camp overlooking the beach and rocks. During the afternoon a white bellied sea eagle passed over our heads every five minutes as he soared up and down the coast on the updraft. He passed directly over us no more than ten feet above us – beautiful. Later in the evening we started to hear movement all around us and discovered hundreds of hermit crabs heading for the sea and a nights feeding. The night was lovely with a sea breeze and sunset over the water, whilst at the same time we had thunder and lightning storms passing in land of us. Superb climatic scenery wherever we looked.

Wednesday 18th March 2009
Quondong Point
36°C Sunny – Evening storm

Awaking nice and refreshed this morning the sea breeze was almost cold. Packing up for the drive back into Broome took no time. The first 500 metres were a challenge as yesterdays down hill steep sections were up hill this morning and the sun was directly in our eyes. Getting to the smoother part of the road we made good time into town. We ate breakfast in town and then dropped the Troopy of at the garage. We spent the day walking around the shops, Broome is noted for its pearl industry and there were lots of expensive jewellery on show.

At three o’clock we received the call that the Troopy was done and we picked it up from the garage. Our plan was to drive back out to Quondong Point for another night. As we left town the heavens opened with a tropical downpour. The roads we awash in minutes and the dirt road to the camp site became impassable. Even if we made it to the last 500 metres we wouldn’t get safely down to the camp site. If the rain continued we would be stuck in the camp site for days. We decided to return to the main road and drove through several flooded sections. Heading towards Derby we stopped at a roadside rest area and slept.

Thursday 19th March 2009
Nillibubbica
35°C Sunny

After a restless night due to the humidity we woke and after breakfast got on our way. As we approached Derby we saw the sign for the “Prison Boab” and pulled in for a look. This is a boab tree with a large diameter and a split in the side. It is large enough for a cell inside (about eight feet in diameter). Having taken some photos we continued into town. We had a cold drink at a café and updated the web site and downloaded our emails. Then shopping before driving out towards Fitzroy Crossing. We stopped half way at a rest area for the night, this rest area is on a hill with an unobstructed view through 180 degrees. An eagle flew over us to see if there was any dinner for him just before sunset.

Friday 20th March 2009
Ellendale
37°C Sunny

Leaving today with another long drive planned. We arrived in Fitzroy Crossing at eleven o’clock and had a free coffee at the road house. Driving on we passed our first possible camp site but it was too early to stop. Continuing on we got to Halls Creek and turned off the main road towards our second possible site but the road was closed. We stopped at “China Wall”, this is a hillside with a white quartz vein protruding out of it. It does look like the pictures of The Great Wall of China. Back on the road again we arrived at our next possible camping site but it was very open with no shade and as the next site was only seven kilometres we decided to go on.

Arriving at Spring Creek we passed over the creek on a bridge and then turned off down a side track that led back towards the river. This opened out into a nice shady rest area beside the river. As we were setting up camp there was a rustling in the bushes near us and a huge Brahma bull walked out of the bushes within 15 metres of us. We have had some interesting guests in our camp sites over the last few months but this was scary! We sat quietly and he grazed his way around us and after half an hour wandered off. During the afternoon we were visited by lots of birds and a few lizards. We had a lovely cool evening and a cold night it was so cold we had to get the sleeping bag out to use as a quilt.

Saturday 21st March 2009
Spring Creek
38°C Sunny

As we left Spring Creek and drove up the track to the main road we came across the bull from last night with a half a dozen cows (obviously his ladies). We drove past the road that goes towards the Bungle Bungles but it is closed and we will come back later. After a couple of hours driving we pulled in to Kununurra a nice town with a shopping mall. After picking up a few essentials and borrowing the key to the rest room from the sports shop for a comfort break we were back on the road. Driving out to the Western Australia – Northern Territories border we passed through without a check as they are interested in fruit flies going in to WA. We arrived at Saddle Creek rest area and set up for the evening. As there was a nice picnic bench with a shelter beside us we didn’t put up our awning.

Sunday 22nd March 2009
Saddle Creek
37°C Sunny

Leaving Saddle Creek with another long day ahead, we plan to get to Katherine by one o’clock this afternoon and book in to a powered site. Arriving at Katherine we checked out the caravan site and then shopped for steak as they have a gas BBQ. Back at the park we showered and put on a load of laundry. Then went for a swim in the park pool, we had it to ourselves and the sail shade over it made it nice and cool. After half and hour we got out and hung out the laundry to dry and then got back into the pool. As the sun set we walked to the BBQ for dinner and watched the gekkos catching crickets as we ate. During the evening as we were sitting in the dark we had a visitor, a possum trotted through our camp on her way to her tree. Later in the evening we saw her up a tree with her baby, very cute, after that we went to bed.

Monday 23rd March 2009
Katherine
37°C Sunny

After an early morning shower to cool down after a humid night we drove to the tourist information. Gibb River Road, Tanami Road and Kakadu all closed until the end of the we season. That could be April First but no guarantees, it could be two or three weeks later. Rather than hang around waiting we changed our schedule, we will now head south to Alice Springs and drive the Oodnadatta Track and then to Sydney before driving north to the top of Cape York. We will then cross back to Katherine to complete the loop and then return via Gibb River and Tanami Road. So with fuel, water and food replenished we turned south.

The Stuart Highway has got a little busier than the last time we were here in 2002. Driving past Daly Waters we were overtaken by a black car that was going a lot faster than us. The speed limit in the Northern Territories is now 130kph rather than “no limit” as it was on our last visit. Fifty kilometres down the road the driver of the black car was sat on his bonnet in the company of two police cars. We drove past and tried not to laugh. A little while later he shot past us again, so he must be in a real hurry. We arrived at our stop for the night at a roadside rest area. It is a bit close to the road but there isn’t much else available apart from caravan sites. With the awning up we soon got comfortable in the shade, it’s just as warm here but not as humid as yesterday. With the doors of the Troopy open when the sun set to cool down before bed time we sat and chatted to some fellow travellers. We both heard rain on the awning and remarked that it was strange that it could rain without a cloud overhead. We found out later that it hadn’t been rain but stink bugs hitting the side of the car and canvas roof. When we went in to bed the Troopy was full of them. The light shining on the side of the car had attracted them. Stink bugs emit a musty smell when disturbed or squashed. We spent an hour removing / squashing hundreds of them and had to go to sleep with more still in the Troopy with us as there were thousands outside.

Tuesday 24th March 2009
Newcastle Waters
39°C Sunny

Waking up covered in stink bugs we washed and cleaned as many of them out of the Troopy as possible and left the rest area. Down the road while we were filling up with fuel a dozen crawled out from the bonnet and flew off. Arriving at the Devils Marbles, our stop for the night we opened the widows and shooed the last few bugs out. Relaxing we popped the top of the camper and out came about a thousand bugs that had been hiding under the roof. Loads flew into the Troopy and we spent the whole afternoon and evening cleaning them out. The marbles are large granite boulders balanced on each other. We looked around and plan to do so again in the morning.

Wednesday 25th March 2009
Devils Marbles
41°C Sunny

Driving into Alice Springs this morning should have been easy. Unfortunately the air conditioning belt chose this morning to snap. Suddenly the AC stopped working and the inside of the car got hotter and hotter. We reverted to basic AC, open the windows. We were buffeted by a very warm wind in through the windows and after three hours driving felt like we had been sand blasted. Every so often we would pass a road train going the other way and the pressure wave would blast through the cab rattling everything. Even better was when the road train was transporting cattle , phew what a pong. With a quick stop at the Tropic of Capricorn marker we arrived in Alice Springs and booked into a caravan park. After a shower and a soak in the pool we felt more human and enjoyed the evening.

Thursday 26th March 2009
Alice Springs
39°C Sunny

Today we leave Alice Springs, we will be back on the last leg of the figure eight we are doing around Australia. Alice has changed since we were last here. Three malls now rather than just the one before, but still as pleasant. Heading west out of Alice into the McDonnell Ranges with a full load of fuel, food, gas and water. We had fixed the air-conditioning by fitting a new drive belt overnight and the cool air was a relief.

Fifty kilometres out of town we came to Standley Chasm. Walking up the chasm was very nice as the sides are sheer and the shade is cool, we still took lots of water with us. After fifteen minutes walking the chasm suddenly narrows to about three metres across and eighty metres deep. This crack in the hill runs in for about fifty metres and we had to climb up some very large boulders. The view back was very impressive and we waited the half an hour till midday when the sun shone straight down into the chasm. Walking back to the Troopy it was time for lunch, then we drove on to find a camp spot.

We found one at Ellery Creek near a swimming hole and having set up camp we went for a dip. Entering the water was hard at first as the water was very cold and we were very hot. We got used to the temperature and swam out towards the middle. The water felt strange, we would just get used to the temperature when a warm current would wash past us immediately followed by a cold current. Sometimes only one leg would be in water of a different temperature. Still it was very invigorating. After a while we got out, walked back to our camp and rinsed off in clean water before relaxing in the shade of the awning with tea and cake.

Friday 27th March 2009
Ellery Creek Big Hole
40°C Sunny

After a nice lay in because the sun didn’t rise early due to the high hills around us and a nice breakfast we were on our way again. Not far to drive today as we will camp at the end of the McDonnell Ranges tonight as we have to make the drive around the Mereenie Loop to Kings Canyon in one day. We have a permit to drive the road but there is only one place we are allowed to stop and no camping is permitted. As we didn’t have far to drive today we stopped at Ormiston Gorge and had a swim. The water in the gorge winds around several bends and we swam around stopping occasionally in the shallow spots to relax and enjoy the view of the gorge. Driving to our stop for the night we parked in the day use area and ate our lunch before walking down into the Redbank Gorge for another swim.

The sign said that an easy 20 minute walk would get us to a series of pools that we could swim in. After slogging through red hot sand for 45 minutes we got to a wall of boulders with no obvious path. We decided that we could go no further as we were not equipped for this. So turning around we retraced our steps back to the Troopy. We drank the last of our water as we arrived back in the car park. We had turned around at the right point, if we had gone on at the boulders we would have run out of water on our return and that would be no joke in 40° heat. Driving back to the camping area we found a nice spot and relaxed for the rest of the afternoon.

Saturday 28th March 2009
Redbank Gorge
42°C Hazy Sunny

After a good nights sleep due to the all the walking yesterday and a cool night breeze we woke and got up at seven o’clock. Breakfast and packed and on the road. Driving the two hundred kilometres of the Mereenie loop and into Kings Canyon by the back way took three hours. The front left indicator gave up and fell off due to the corrugations in the road after only ten kilometres. Picking up the indicator we carried on. At Kings Canyon Resort we filled up with fuel at the roadhouse and then had a posh coffee and muffin in the café. We sat amongst the coach party tourists (straight off of the plane) and listened to them moaning about the heat and flies. Funny we hadn’t noticed today. Leaving Kings Canyon by the main road south we got half way to the Lassiter Highway (main road to Uluru) and turned east on to the Ernest Giles Road. Another hundred kilometres of gravel road brought us to Henbury Meteor Craters. Fifteen minutes after arriving and once our internal organs had stopped shaking we ate lunch and then set up camp and settled in for the hot part of the day. We took the time to repair the indicator and re fix it to the Troopy. At six o’clock as the day was cooling we went for the one and a half kilometre walk around the craters.

Sunday 29th March 2009
Henbury Meteor Craters
39°C Sunny

After a good nights sleep we walked around the craters again before leaving. Driving out to the Stuart Highway took no time and we were soon headed south. Stopping at Erldundda for a few minutes we were struck by the changes. The first time we came here it was just a typical Australian road house, a bit grubby and in need of a coat of paint. Now it is a “Resort” with a bar, caravan park and even a pool. Driving on we arrived at Marla, the start of the Oodnadatta Track. We brought some items from the shop and put our onions in the fruit fly quarantine bin. Sitting in the shade of some trees at a picnic bench and enjoying the spray from a water sprinkler we ate lunch. This is a main tourist route as shown by the number of tour busses and tourists flapping their arms around and complaining about the flies. Thanks to the fly repellent we were wearing the flies didn’t bother us while we ate. We then drove back north for four kilometres and turned off to the west. Our camp site book told us there was a picnic area we could stay just ten kilometres along the road.

Having driven up and down the road three times and failed to find the site we returned to Marla. Our plan had been to have a nights rest before starting the Oodnadatta Track.The maps show a rest area one hundred kilometres down the track. This was our only real option so we checked that everything was stowed properly and drove past the road open sign and down the track. Two hours later we arrived at the rest area at Olarinna Creek. The rest area turned out to be a clump of trees but the creek. The creek was dry and as this is cattle country there were loads of cow pats, also a large portion of flies. Putting our fly nets into use we were soon settled in and relaxing. Sitting in the shade of the Troopy we waited for fly bed-time at dusk, when we would be able to eat alone.

Monday 30th March 2009
Olarinna Creek
34°C Sunny

Waking this morning to the sound of flies outside the mosquito net windows. They were up before us, so we had breakfast inside the Troopy. Packing up we turned back out on to the Oodnadatta Track. Heading south east towards Oodnadatta. After an hour and a half we arrived and filled with fuel at the pink roadhouse. My it’s pink and they hire canoes. Listening to the advice for travellers we dropped the tyre pressures and selected four wheel drive for the remaining distance of the Oodnadatta Track. Leaving town we again headed south east this time towards William Creek. Fifty kilometres down the track we came to a large bridge over a dry river. This is part of the Old Ghan Railway line. The last train ran on this track in 1980 when the new line opened. Climbing up the embankment we walked out onto the bridge to take a few photos. After we had driven for another hour and a half we stopped for lunch by another dried up creek. Within ten seconds of turning off the engine and opening the windows a hundred flies found us. So we quickly closed the windows and ran the air-conditioning to get rid of the flies.

Having eaten we finished the drive into William Creek. Stopping at the hotel for a cold drink we then headed to Lake Eyre. The sixty kilometre road to the lake from William Creek is a little rough to say the least. We eventually arrived at the lake, no water, what a surprise. This is the driest place in Australia and fifteen metres below sea level. When we arrived there was a wild life photographer working there and he showed us a Lake Eyre Dragon. We were glad he told us ‘cos it looked just like a lizard to us. We went for a walk down the salt pan and then back to the Troopy for tea.

Tuesday 31st March 2009
Lake Eyre
32°C Sunny

Waking to watch the sunrise over Lake Eyre from our bed was spectacular. Then it was time to move on. Having packed we drove the sixty kilometres of rough track back to the Oodnadatta Track and turned south east. Down the road we stopped for a look at Lake Eyre South. Then a short while later at “The Bubbler” a spring that bubbles out into a small round pond before cascading down a small stream into a green meadow. The fish and other animals are limited to just this spot as there is no water for hundreds of kilometres.

We finished the Oodnadatta in Marree, where we filled up with fuel at a roadhouse. As we left the roadhouse the people were sat by the fuel pumps smoking. Shocked we left, as there was not an explosion behind us we can only assume that they have survived. Driving south we ran out of gravel and hit the tarmac. Continuing on we arrived in Leigh Creek for a cup of coffee and some shopping. A supermarket woohoo the first since Alice. Then we headed into the Flinders Range for our nights stop.

Wednesday 1st April 2009
Parachilna Gorge
34°C Sunny

After a nice lay in due to the high hills around us preventing the sun waking us at the normal time we left Parachilna Gorge and drove up into the Flinders Range. Having prepared the Troopy for a day of gravel roads by dropping the tyre pressures we found that the road has been sealed in the last year. The road works are just finishing but almost the entire distance is fresh tarmac. Stopping at the entrance to Willapena Pound we re-inflated the tyres using the compressor we carry. On the way into Hawker we turned off to the little cabin we stayed in last time we were in the area. It is down a gravel road and we had carefully picked our way there and back in our hire car last time. The road passes through the dry river twice on the way. We had heard there was a storm and the road got washed out the week after we stayed. Arriving this time we found the main road had a new concrete causeway and the two river crossings had been re-cut so the road had been washed out. We would have been in serious trouble with the hire company if we had got stuck last time. We then drove into Port Augusta and had lunch at the visitor centre. Its exactly three months since we were here on our way to Western Australia. This stop in Port Augusta completes the first half of our trip. We then drove towards Broken hill on the Barrier Highway, stopping at a rest area near Nackara for the night.

Thursday 2nd April 2009
Nackara
32°C Sunny

We slept in hour blocks through the night. After each hour we would be woken either by a goods train on the railway 150 metres away or a road train on the road 50 metres away (very pretty with all their lights). With that said it was a lovely cool night, the first time we have used our sleeping bag “doona” (quilt) since Perth. In the morning we packed up and drove into Broken Hill and spent some time shopping. We both brought new tops as our current ones are getting a little stained, marked and frayed. Then after a coffee we drove on to Menindee and our nights stop by the main weir.

When we arrived there were a few caravans dotted around the camp site so we drove out the back on a very rough track until we came to a clearing beside the Darling River. Setting up camp we watched the fish eating the bugs from the surface of the river (yes there is water in the Darling) and a pelican eating the fish. While having afternoon tea we dropped a piece of cake and spent some time watching the large ants struggling to carry it away. At dusk a pied cormorant took off and flew down the river past us at head height. During the night we could hear animals crashing through the bush around us but we couldn’t see them.

Friday 3rd April 2009
Menindee
34°C Sunny

After a very restful night we left Menindee Main Weir. Tom-tom said there was a road out in the direction we wanted to go but that way was the dam. Looking around we found a small track that dropped down behind the dam and across the outflow channel and joined the road to Wilcannia after a couple of kilometres. We drove along the gravel road up the Darling River until we got to the Barrier Highway. Here we turned towards Wilcannia for one kilometre before we again turned north towards Bourke.

When we arrived at Tilpa we found the road blocked and signed closed. We were only ten kilometres from our intended camp site. We had to change plans, there were no free camp sites in Bourke so there was no point in continuing that way. Turning south east we dropped back down to the Barrier Highway and found a road side camp area just before Cobar. We settled in and did the usual household chores. We washed clothes and then our floor mat. The clothes went on the line and the mat we laid out on a convenient rock to dry.

After an hour just as the mat was drying we spotted a heard of feral goats sneaking up on it and had to rescue it before it got eaten by the goats. There were three big billy goats (no not that gruff) and half a dozen nanny goats. When we went for the mat the nanny goats ran off but not the billy goats, and those horns look quite intimidating. With the chores done we then relaxed for the evening.

Saturday 4th April 2009
Meadow Glen.
27°C Sunny

After a nice cool night and a good sleep we woke to find the awning had blown down in the night. The wind had shaken it until one of the pegs had turned and released the guy rope. The awning was draped neatly over one of the spare wheels. We packed it away before breakfast as we had shade from a convenient tree. Driving on and dodging the feral goats, there must have been close to a hundred dotted along the hard shoulder. We made good time and arrived in Dubbo by half one in the afternoon and found a parking spot in the main street. We walked along the street to visit Dubbo Old Gaol. The visit was interesting and very informative. There were eight men executed in the gaol while it was functioning and they have animatronics dummies talking about different aspects of the prison.

After leaving the gaol we drove out to a free camp spot ten kilometres outside Dubbo. The site is an Aboriginal Reserve and right by the river. We arrived and there were already three caravans there. We set up home and during the afternoon more and more campers turned up. The site is quite small so the caravans were parked quite close together. We picked a small spot that only a Troopy would fit in to so no one can park too close to us. We walked further into the reserve and had a look at the aboriginal grinding stones in the evening.

Sunday 5th April 2009
Terramungamine Reserve
26°C Sunny

After a lovely cool night and a short lay in we packed up and left Terramungamine. Driving into Dubbo we fuelled up and then headed towards Sydney. On the way we passed through Bathurst and took the Troopy for a flying lap around the Mount Panorama track Then stopped for lunch at a nice roadside rest area. Leaving Bathurst We drove up into the Blue Mountains, through and down the east side into Emu Plains.

Checking into the caravan park we started from four months ago we hit the laundry and then the showers. It was then that we realised that New South Wales had put their clocks back an hour in the night. That explained why there were so few people about in Dubbo this morning even for a Sunday. We had only put our clocks on an hour the day before yesterday when we left Broken Hill so we don’t really know what the time is any more. In the evening we walked to O’Donohuges for dinner as we had a buy one get one free voucher. With full bellies we walked back to the Troopy and bed with nice clean sheets.

Monday 6th April 2009
Emu Plains
27°Sunny

Woken this morning by the sound of a bobcat mini excavator ripping out the hedges that surround the site behind us. They are preparing the ground for a new park home. Getting up and putting a load of washing in the laundrette we sat and ate breakfast. While we did the fence around the washing lines went and the washing lines followed. We had to put our washing in the tumble dryers as there was no where left to hang it. Packing up we drove into Penrith, parked and went shopping. Jackie got her hair cut and then we had lunch in the food court. After lunch we drove out and spent the afternoon with Rex and Jean, catching up with the last four months. Then we had dinner out before returning to the caravan park to see if our site was still there. Fortunately it was and we prepared for bed. We chatted with the permanent residents until bed time.

Tuesday 7th April 2009
Emu Plains
25°C Cloudy

This morning the plumbers arrived to do the work on the site behind us. Luckily plumbers do not start early like builders, so we had had a lay in and were eating breakfast as they arrived. Leaving the caravan park we said goodbye to Rex and Jean and headed out of Penrith northwards. We had decided not to drive into Sydney and over the bridge to pick up the freeway up the coast. Instead we drove up through the Great Dividing Range. The road was exceptionally twisty, we have not seen hairpins like those since Tasmania. Four hours later we arrived at Dungog and started the climb into the hills to the state forest where we planned to stay. The gravel track was even twistier and the signs warned of logging trucks on the track. After five kilometres we found the side track and started to descend, four kilometres later we arrived at the day use area of Frying Pan Creek. The road disappeared into the river and re-appeared the other side. Looking carefully we could see the concrete causeway under the surface and drove through. The camp site was right by the river and quite damp as it is a sub-tropical rain forest, so tonight should be cool enough. As we prepared dinner we had to find our fleeces that we haven’t worn since southern West Australia. We ate dinner watching the kookaburra drop down and catch his dinner as the sun set high above.

Wednesday 8th April 2009
Frying Pan Creek
25°C Sunny

Martin went for a short walk down to the creek this morning and came back with three leeches. Using the gas lighter that we light the cooker with we removed them and then had our breakfast. Leaving Frying Pan Creek we drove slowly up the very steep gravel road and back down to Dungog. We met two logging trucks coming the other way. We managed to move over sufficiently to let them pass without any reversing. After more twisty gravel roads we arrived at the main road and stopped for lunch. Driving on we arrived at Mummel Gulf National Park and drove in to our planned stop for tonight.

The camp area is called New Country Swamp and we are only ten metres from the water so we expect mozzies tonight. Parking the Troopy in one of the camp spots we went for a short walk to a lookout. After only 300 metres when we returned to the track we both had several leeches and had to remove them. After a further stroll up the gravel road searching for koalas we returned to the Troopy to find fresh droppings all around it. While we had been looking for wildlife, the wildlife had been partying at the Troopy. Setting up camp we spent some time sorting out our mozzie net before sunset. Shortly before sunset another caravan pulled in to the camp site so we will have company tonight. We hope they are not too noisy and do not frighten the animals away.

Thursday 9th April 2009
New Country Swamp
26°C Cloudy

The clouds rolled in overnight. Well that is a disadvantage to camping in The Great Dividing Range, Being high enough to be in the clouds makes everything damp. As we drove out of the park we passed loads of kangaroo either sitting on the road or hopping across it just in front of us. Back on the main road we headed for Armidale to book the Troopy in for it’s next service, that is 30,000 kilometres driven since we brought it. After shopping we drove out to the nearest national park to get a camp site for the holiday weekend. Having struggled to find camp spots during Australia Day weekend we are not going to make the same mistake over Easter. Pulling into Little Styx River camp site we picked a suitable spot and set up. After chatting to some fellow campers we went for a stroll. As the weather was cool and damp we didn’t go too far and soon returned to the Troopy for tea and cake.

Friday 10th April 2009
Little Styx River
28°C Cloudy

Today as the sun was shining we decided to go for a walk to a nearby lookout. Leaving the Troopy wearing our ankle supports and using our hiking sticks we set out. We were both carrying rucksacks with safety equipment, cameras, food, water and a picnic blanket. After two kilometres of gently undulating gravel track we found the rest area in the park. From here a hiking trail disappears into the bush. The information board said that the trail we were walking was “Easy”. After winding through the eucalyptus trees up and down small hills for ten minutes the trail dropped into a boggy section and we had to pick our way around the wettest bits. Then the trail started to climb up hill, the ground was soggy and the exposed rock was covered in moss and very slippery. Scrambling down a slippery rock slope we came to the first of the waterfalls. Then the trail climbed again and we came to an wooden walkway. The planks were covered in chicken wire so there was good grip although some of the plank bridges swayed alarmingly. We arrived at the largest waterfall and enjoyed the scenic view for a while before pressing on.

Eventually we emerged on to the gravel road to the peak lookout. After a short distance it became tarmac, this wasn’t good news and they only tarmac the really dangerous sections of a gravel road. The road went up hill very steeply for the next two kilometres. We arrived at a picnic area just short of the peak and stopped for lunch. After a short sit down and food we felt fit enough to carry on. Turning off of the road again we followed the trail that wound along the edge of the cliff. Looking out through the trees that cling to the edge we could see the forest below looking like broccoli. We made the summit and after reading the information boards walked to the lookout to see the view….. Nothing but cloud! What a disappointment, all that walking to see white, clouds look the same from above and inside as they do from underneath .

Turning around we walked the five and a half kilometre direct route down the road as we were too tired to explore any more side trails. When we got back to the Troopy we took off our shoes, rubbed our sore feet and had a nice cup of tea. Refreshed we sat and relaxed until bed time, saving the last of our energy for the difficult climb up into bed.

Saturday 11th April 2009
Little Styx River
24°C Cloudy

After yesterdays marathon walk we were both aching in places we didn’t know could ache. So we spent the day relaxing around the camp site and chatting with the other campers.

Sunday 12th April 2009
Little Styx River
20°C Rainy

After a rainy night the sun peeped through the clouds at eleven o’clock so we went for a walk to Beech Lookout. Only four kilometres there and back for lunch. Sitting looking out over the tree canopy we could see the cloud boiling over the ridge opposite us. Walking back to the Troopy we arrived before the rain started again. We sat indoors for the rest of the afternoon and evening watching the rain.

Monday 13th April 2009
Little Styx River
22°C Cloudy

After a night of rain we woke to a damp morning. After breakfast we started packing for the move nearer to Armidale as the Troopy is booked in for another service at 07:30 Tuesday morning. We drove out of the National Park in heavy rain through massive puddles and flooded floodways. Gaining the main road the air-con finally cleared the windscreen and we could get up to speed. Arriving in Armidale we had coffee and a walk around the shops before driving out to the camp site for tonight. At Dumaresq Dam we set up camp and allowed the Troopy and all our camping equipment to dry out after a very wet start. We were visited by a purple swamp hen and some geese as soon as they heard the biscuit packet. We watched the locals playing with their boat on the reservoir during the afternoon before retiring early as we have to be in town early in the morning to get the Troopy serviced.

Tuesday 14th April 2009
Dumaresq Dam
25°C Partially Cloudy

Up a six this morning and packed to drive into town. Dropping the Troopy off at the garage for it’s service, a short walk took us into town for some retail therapy. Collecting the Troopy at half ten we topped up the fuel, water and food and headed north again. Lunching on route we were soon at Tenterdale and turning off of the main road we headed up the “Mt Lindsey Highway”. This turned out to be tarmac and almost two cars wide.

After 20 km we arrived at the Basket Swamp turn off. The road became gravel, then a track and then a 4wd required track. The instructions on how to find the camp site were not very helpful and after a couple of wrong turns down dead-end tracks we found a sign to Basket Swamp Falls – 5 km. Thinking this must be it we headed along the track. It got rougher and rougher until we were descending a very narrow track and having to drive over very large rocks that looked like giant sleeping policemen across the track. The last hundred metres to the falls were very rutted and stoney and steeply down hill. We arrived at the falls to find no camp site, just a turning area. We looked at the falls as we had driven all that track we might as well. They were very pretty.

Climbing back into the Troopy we drove back up the track, it needed four wheel drive and low ratio to have the grip and power to be able to go up hill slowly enough to manage the deep ruts. After 40 km of off-roading we finally found the camp site. It had been worth it the solitude was nice and the unspoilt forest looked wonderful. The kangaroo hopping around the area made it perfect. We chilled out for the late afternoon and evening before retiring to bed.

Wednesday 15th April 2009
Basket Swamp
29°C Sunny

Watching the birds from the Troopy upstairs window was lovely, but we had to get up and move on. After breakfast we left Basket Swamp and drove back out onto Mt Lindsey Highway. Two hours driving got us to Warwick, parking in the mall car park we found a laundrette and got caught up on our laundry. It has rained for the last five days and there was no point hand washing as there was nowhere to dry it. With the laundry done we had lunch in the mall and then headed towards Brisbane.

The road from Warwick to our camp site is shown on the map as a main road. The road was tarmac but it felt like the tarmac had been dumped over what ever was there without the benefit of a road roller. We had to squeeze past a couple of cars and a caravan, we were amazed to see a caravan on such a bad road. Not as surprised as when we saw the articulated truck coming towards us. We managed to move off the road far enough so he could get past. Then we caught up with two cattle trucks (artics) and had to sit behind them for a while until we got to a straight section across the floor of a valley. That has to be the twistiest, bumpiest road we have ever driven. We finally found the rest area we are stopping at tonight. This is the last one before Brisbane and we will drive in to town tomorrow. Setting up camp we relaxed after a hard days drive.

Thursday 16th April 2009
Langdon Reserve
32°C Sunny

After a nice nights sleep we left Langdon Reserve and headed into Brisbane. Driving straight in to the Central Business District (CBD) we found a parking spot outside the botanical gardens and decided a stroll through the gardens would be a nice thing to do on a sunny morning. Halfway around we found a café and stopped for a well earned coffee. Strolling on we walked down to the river and along it for a while before returning to the Troopy. Driving out of town we headed for Ipswich and stopped in at the tourist information to find out about National Parks in Queensland. We left and headed to Toogoolawa, a little town that we had seen a nice house in on the internet a couple of years ago. Then it was time to find a camping site. We drove out to a State Forest and set up camp at Clanceys Campsite, 12 km down a logging track. In the evening we walked two kilometres along the creek bed seeing birds and kangaroos, before returning to our camp along the track. It was dark by the time we got back so we had dinner by the light from the Troopy before settling down for the night.

Friday 17th April 2009
Clanceys Camp
31°C Sunny

After a nice refreshing lay in we were getting breakfast when the park ranger turned up to service the camp site. As he drove past our Troopy to check if we had a registration slip on the dash board we started chatting. An hour and a half later when he left us it was a bit late for breakfast so we just had tea and toast before getting on the road. An hour down the road we came to a set of roadwork’s and as the queue for the traffic lights was quite long we turned on the UHF two way radio knowing that the works team usually use UHF to control the works. The conversation we overheard about some truckers boss who they obviously didn’t get on with was really amusing and very graphic. Driving on we turned north on the motorway and soon arrived in Gympie.

A quick shop and fuel for the Troopy and we headed out towards Rainbow Beach. This is the ferry crossing point to get to Fraser Island. Stopping at the tourist information office we paid the park fee, a return on the ferry and a couple of nights beach camping. Next stop fifteen minutes later was Inskip Point where the Manta Ray ferry leaves from. Stopping at the edge of the beach to engage the locks on the front hubs and four wheel drive. As we drove through the sand we could see two ferry’s side by side on the beach and each had a man standing on the ramp waving us on their ferry. Recognising the name on the right hand ferry we drove on to that. Turns out we made the correct choice and while the ferry made the crossing we dropped the pressure in our tyres as we will be driving on sandy tracks and beaches for the next couple of days.

The crewman on the ferry said we would be alright to take the beach road but after only five hundred metres the water was right up to the trees at the dunes and we would have to drive into the sea to get round. Taking the safe option we turned around and returned to the start of the inland road. This rough gravel track runs just behind the dunes and bypasses the first part of the beach. Back on the beach at a point where we were safe to drive we headed north. After thirty four kilometres we arrived at one of the areas where beach camping is permitted and dropping into low ratio four wheel drive we mounted the route up through the dunes. We quickly found a camp spot as we had been driving for six hours and were a little tired. Reading the information on dingo and crocodile safety we had dinner and sat watching the stars and listening to the surf breaking on the beach.

Saturday 18th April 2009
Govi Camp Area – Fraser Island
31°C Sunny

Waking up a seven o’clock with the sun we checked the tide times to see when it would be safe to travel the beach. Low tide was at 10 am with high tide at 3pm. With that information we had a relaxed breakfast. As we were preparing lunch (sausage sandwiches) two dingo’s arrived and having walked around us several times sat in front of the Troopy as if to stop us leaving. They soon realised that there would be no sausage for them and they wandered off to another camp site. Then we packed up and drove out through the dunes and down on to the beach. Driving up the beach on the hard packed damp sand near the waters edge we made good time to Eurong. Stopping at the islands only shop we then continued up the beach. Slowing right down to cross the streams that run across the beach as they can be deep and the edges very steep.

We arrived at Cornwells Break Road and turned inland. Straight away we were down into second gear and grinding up the sandy hill. For the next three hours we wound our way up and down sandy tracks, in and out of trees and over roots. Some sections were so rough we were down to slow walking pace. Occasionally we would meet a vehicle coming the opposite direction and one would have to pull off into a passing area while the other squeezed past. We arrived at Lake McKenzie, a crystal clear fresh water lake in the middle of the island and paddled before moving on. Passing three other lakes we finally reached Dilli Village and dropped back down onto the beach. Then it was a quick blast back up the beach to our camp site before high tide. After lunch we spent the afternoon doing household chores and pampering ourselves.

Sunday 19th April 2009
Govi Camp Area – Fraser Island
30°C Sunny

Leaving Govi we dropped down on to the beach and turned south. Driving along the beach we kept to just above the surf line as road rules apply and we have to pass to the left of oncoming traffic. We dodged around piles of driftwood sometimes passing between the pile and the surf and others where the gap was too small between the pile and the dunes. One section was very bumpy and we nearly took off, we had to cross several streams that were up to two feet deep in places. Forty kilometres of beach driving later we arrived at Hook Point the landing point for the ferry. The only way you can tell that you have arrived is the little green sign in the dune. The dingo’s were there to see us off, well foraging for food anyway.

The ferry arrived after a short wait and the ramp dropped on to the beach, vehicles drove off and then it was our turn to board. The crossing was quite quick and we drove down the ramp and across the soft sand and on to the road. Stopping in a parking area we re-inflated our tyres to road pressures and disengaged four wheel drive. After a short drive we arrived in Rainbow Beach to find a super automatic carwash. For 12 dollars we parked over a metal grid the size of a large vehicle and jets of water shot up under the Troopy and washed all the sand and more importantly the salt off. Then came a wash with a corrosion inhibitor. After that and a session with a pressure washer we were salt free and ready to go.

We drove back into Gympie to shop but all the shops were shut so we drove on to Gin Gin where we found a roadside rest area for the night. After a glorious but hectic two days on Fraser we relaxed on a nice grass area for the night.

Monday 20th April 2009
Gin Gin
33°C Sunny

The road trains only woke us a few times in the night but that is the price of a roadside rest area. Leaving Gin Gin we drove towards Rockhampton and did the shopping that we couldn’t do yesterday. The temperatures are rising as we head north again. We crossed the Tropic of Capricorn again today and are officially back in the tropics but is the dry season here now so we should be OK. With full tanks and plenty of food we left Rockhampton and drove the 70 km out to a National Park. Arriving at Red Rock camp area we paid the ten dollars camping fee and set up camp. Once we had stowed the shopping we could relax for the evening.
Tuesday 21st April 2009
Red Rock
35°C Sunny

After a peaceful night at Red Rock we moved on. Driving towards Mackay we were followed for a long way by a police car. Even when you are sticking to the speed limit it still makes you nervous. Stopping at a rest area for lunch we were serenaded by Blue Cheeked Honey Eaters and Apostle Birds (makes a change from seagulls and pigeons). Driving on we pulled off the road at Carmila and drove six kilometres to the coast. The last 300 metres were sandy and the closer to the beach the softer it got. We came to a halt in a very soft patch so had to lock the hubs and engage four wheel drive.

We found a nice spot right by the beach, set up camp, filled the bush shower and placed it in the sun to warm. After a cup of tea it was chore time. With a washing line strung we stripped and washed everything. With the clothes drying we hoisted the bush shower up a convenient tree and washed our hair and showered. This has got to be the best view from a shower we have ever seen. Long yellow beach, crystal blue sea with the little islands dotted along the horizon and a clear blue sky with a couple of puffy white clouds. We then sat back and watched the tide come slowly in.

Wednesday 22nd April 2009
Carmila Beach
32°C Sunny

We had a very entertaining night last night a group of backpackers turned up in a hired road car and drove in even thought he signs advised against 2wd cars. They promptly got themselves bogged in and we watched as they worked to dig it out. Driving out this morning we cruised pass in 4wd and out on to the highway. Mackay only took an hour and a half, and after a quick stop in the tourist information office we headed out towards Eungella. We had been told that people had seen platypus out there. The road passed through field after field of sugar cane before it arrived at the foot of the hills. Then we started going up 12 kilometres of hill steeper than 12%. We were down in second gear most of the way. Passing waterfalls that that the stream then ran under grids in the road, we would make the next turn and pass over the stream again.

Arriving at Broken River we looked at the river and there were no platypus to be seen. Never mind we will camp up here and look again at dawn and dusk when the platypus are more active. Leaving Broken River and heading for our camp site 15 minutes up the range we were making good time. Suddenly as we climbed another hill there was a bang and we stopped. The right hand rear hub had snapped all the studs holding the drive shaft in and the shaft had shot out three feet. Small problem then, the drive shaft is broken and we are out of mobile phone range.

We slid the drive shaft back into place but could do nothing about the snapped bolts. Using cable ties we secured the drive shaft so that we wouldn’t loose too much oil. Then we locked the front hubs and engaged 4wd to give us a front wheel drive Troopy. We drove slowly back down to Broken River and made a few phone calls on a payphone. The nearest garage who could help was back in Mackay, so we drove all the way back, stopping to check the drive shaft and diff oil every so often. While we were driving we managed to contact the garage on the mobile and booked the Troopy in for the next morning, they would have the necessary parts trucked in by lunch time. Arriving in Mackay we found all the motels full so after spending some time eating dinner in a Hogs Breath restaurant we drove out to the garage after dark and camped beside the road.

Thursday 23rd April 2009
Driveline Services - Mackay
28°C Sunny

Waking up after a disturbed night due to the industrial setting of our camp site we packed up handed our keys to the garage. Walking just around the corner we found a Europcar office and they found us a Hyundai Getz for the day. No longer pedestrians we spent the day driving around, visiting beaches and shopping.

Collecting the Troopy at five o’clock the mechanics were surprised that the rear axle had lasted as long as it had as it and the diff housing were quite badly bent. We ordered a replacement diff housing and that will be delivered for fitting on Monday. Leaving the garage we headed back up to Eungella determined to see a platypus.

As we arrived at the foot of the hills the sun set. As we drove up it got darker and darker until we reached the top where suddenly it was day again. This didn’t last long and it was soon completely dark. We found our camp spot at Crediton Hall and stopped in the first available parking spot. We set up camp and retired for the night.

Friday 24th April 2009
Crediton Hall
30°C Sunny

Waking with the cows lowing at dawn we decided to take a stroll to see if we could see any platypus in the river that ran passed the camp site. After half and hour with no luck we returned to the Troopy for breakfast. Packing up we drove back to Broken River and walked to the river. As we stood looking at the turtles swimming in the river Jackie suddenly spotted ripple rings on the surface of the water, then the back of something. Yes it was a platypus, over the next twenty minutes we saw four platypus playing and fishing right by us, it was absolutely magic. Eventually they swam under the bank and disappeared into their burrow.

We drove down the hills and into Finch Hatton Gorge for lunch before driving out to the coast to find a camp site for the night. Stopping at Smalleys Beach we found a vacant camp spot and set up camp. All afternoon we could hear large Goannas moving through the dry leaves in the undergrowth around our camp but we could only catch fleeting glimpses of them.

Saturday 25th April 2009
Smalleys Beach
28°C Sunny

After a lazy start we had breakfast, unfortunately a very forward kookaburra decided he wanted breakfast and after buzzing us several times tried to land first on Martins head and then the table. We found a stick we could wave and put him off and managed to finish breakfast. We spent the day doing chores that we have been putting off. We re-proofed the canvas sides of the Troopy’s pop-top as they have been getting damp when it rains. We also changed a tyre valve core that has been causing us problems every time we have to change tyre pressures. Afterwards we washed our dirty clothes and hung them out to dry. Then it was pampering time, a haircut for Martin and strip washes and hair washes for both of us. Feeling nice and clean we enjoyed the sunshine for the remainder of the afternoon.

Sunday 26th April 2009
Smalleys Beach
29°C Sunny

After being woken up by the kookaburras in the tree right beside the Troopy at a quarter to six we had a nice lay in. After breakfast we decided to drive into town and get some milk as we were down to our last cup of teas worth. Leaving table and chairs to mark our site we drove up the gravel track towards the main road. A hundred metres from the road we came to a camper van stuck in the last dip in the road. Their right rear wheel had dropped into a large pothole at the bottom of the dip where a small stream crosses the road and his bike carrier had grounded. We stopped to offer help. The driver thought he could get out as he had packed under the wheel with branches. The wheels span and they went nowhere. Engaging the Troopy’s 4wd we drove off the road, through the bush and across the stream to get around his stuck camper. Then using our snatch strap we pulled them out. Putting away the strap we drove on into Seaforth and brought the milk we needed at the store before returning to the camp site.

Monday 27th April 2009
Smalleys Beach
31°C Sunny

Up and out at half six for the hour drive back into Mackay, dropping the Troopy off again we picked up a hire car and went shopping. In the afternoon we parked by the coast under the shade of a tree for a siesta. Returning the hire car at half four we walked to the garage. As we arrived we could see the Troopy on a ramp with the new axle in place but with no wheels on. We sat in the office while they finished off and then getting back in the Troopy we drove out of town. As it was late and getting dark we drove back to Smalleys Beach. As we pulled in to our camp spot there were two australian bustards walking around the clearing and we had to wait until they had moved before we could park, then after alight dinner were soon in bed.

Tuesday 28th April 2009
Smalleys Beach
32°C Sunny

Getting up was easier this morning as we were hitting the road again. Northwards towards Townsville. We are camping tonight at a National Park just south of the town. Pulling in we found a nice urban type park and found a camp site under the shade of a large tree. Discovering that there were showers here (cold) we jumped at the chance and soon were both squeaky clean and sipping tea back at the Troopy. With bush turkeys and agile wallabies wandering around the camp site we wondered what other animals we would see. At dusk we watched the bush turkeys flapping up from branch to branch to find a roosting spot in the trees around the camp site. At eight o'clock when we were getting the Troopy ready for the night we had a visitor, a snake. Having looked at it using our torches from a very safe distance we checked our snake pictures and figured out that it was a carpet python. Even then we decided to keep away from it as we could be wrong. After a while it slithered under the Troopy, out the other side and disappeared.

Wednesday 29th April 2009
Alligator Creek
30°C Sunny

Leaving the camp site this morning we headed into Townsville for shopping to restock our food supplies. Finding a nice mall we wandered around for a while before packing the fresh food in the fridge and driving out of town. Heading north again we turned off the main road just before Innisfail and drove to Bingil Bay and the camp ground on the beach. There are only about five parking spots and we are only 30 metres from the surf. Looking to our left we can see the warning signs for box jellyfish and salty crocodiles. With coconut palm trees fringing the beach sunrise over the sea tomorrow morning should be nice. As the sun set behind the trees inland the sea breeze started so we will have a nice cool night, we may have to get the sleeping bag back out if it gets too chilly.

Thursday 30th April 2009
Bingil Bay
32°C Sunny

After a lovely nights sleep with the sound of the waves breaking on the beach and a nice sea breeze to help us to sleep, we used the hot showers that were available before we left. Driving south for a few kilometres to see if there was vehicle access into the local National Park we found that there wasn’t. So back out on to the main road and into Innisfail to pick up some spicy bread for tomorrows breakfast. Then we turned inland again and climbed the steep hills up onto Atherton Tableland to find a camp site next to Lake Tingroo. Stopping on the way to see the Curtain Fig Tree. This is a strangler fig that has grown up a very tall tree that has since fallen against another tree. Now the fig roots form a curtain as they drop from the angled trunk to the ground.

When we got there we found that you need a prior booking to camp there, Queensland National Parks are peculiar in that they do not work the self registration system that works well everywhere else in all their parks. Never mind we found a nice spot just down the road at Rocky Creek War Memorial Park. Sounds a bit grim but it is actually a nice grassy field next to the memorial park and a sign saying “Campers Welcome”. We set up camp, including the awning as there isn’t much shade and settled down. Later in the afternoon Jackie went for a walk to the memorial to read the inscriptions and found out that this used to be a Second World War Military Hospital.

Friday 1st May 2009
Rocky Creek War Memorial Park
28°C Sunny

Driving into Cairns this morning we drove past Kuranda Village. We will stop in another time. Arriving in Cairns we found a parking spot that had headroom enough to fit the Troopy. We spent some time shopping before driving out and finding a couple of 4wd shops in the hope of getting some local information on the trip up to Cape York. Unfortunately they are all major chains and the staff are salesmen not enthusiasts. We will try again further north in Port Douglas and Cooktown. Driving back up to Atherton for the night we settled down and phoned up to booked a visit to the lava tubes tomorrow.

Saturday 2nd May 2009
Rocky Creek War Memorial Park
27° Cloudy

Leaving this morning we decided to go and see the lava tubes at Undara. Driving through the Great Dividing Range we climbed hills and disappeared into the cloud before dropping into the next valley. After two and a half hours we arrived at Undara and checked in to an un-powered site. Setting up took no time and we were back at the reception to start a tour. Unfortunately we cannot just walk around on our own we are only allowed to enter the park as part of a guided tour.

Still it was very informative and we went into three sections of lava tube. These vary in height but are around twenty metres high. They all dip and are blocked by roof collapses after a distance, the water table is so high at the moment that there is water in all the tunnels. We could see the walkway disappearing under the water. We could have swum in one but neither us or anyone else on our tour had taken swimmers. Then we climbed up a hill and looked across the forested lava flows to see the extinct volcanoes that had created the lava tubes. Then it was back to the resort and laundry time. While we were sitting in the restaurant area waiting for the machines to finish Jackie went to check on the progress and met the local snake man. He does a snake show in the late afternoon but placed a four foot snake around Jackie’s neck, fortunately it was a non-venomous black headed python. Jackie walked around the corner and said “I have found this. What do you think it is?” Ho ho really funny. With the laundry done we returned to our camp for the night.

Sunday 3rd may 2009
Undara Lava Tubes
29 C Cloudy

After a good night and a nice lay in we breakfasted and then went for a nice walk by Hundred Mile Swamp before returning to the Troopy for lunch. After lunch we sat in the bar whilst the second load of laundry we washing. The bar / restaurant area is made of old railway cars and the old seats from the cars are dotted around. We sat on some of these seats whilst having our afternoon drinkies. We spent some time chatting with a large group of locals on the way back to our camp site before relaxing for the afternoon. With the cloud cover it was a nice warm afternoon but not too warm.

Monday 4th May 2009
Undara Lava Tubes
26°C Cloudy

Packing up and leaving this morning we drove away from the resort and turned off to a volcano that you can walk up. Parking in the car park we walked up the spiral path that wound to the top of Kalkani. The view from the crater rim track was spectacular. You can see more volcanoes dotted around the horizon. Kalkani is a scoria volcano (made by lava solidifying in the air and falling back to earth) as opposed to Undara which is a shield volcano that made the lava tubes we saw on Saturday. Dodging the showers of rain we made it back to the Troopy and headed out.

We drove north along part of the alternative route of the Savannah Way. After a hundred and forty kilometres we joined the Burke Development road and headed in to Mareeba. Driving through Mareeba towards Cairns we stopped at a National Park that had been recommended to us called Davis Creek National Park. Driving the six kilometres down the gravel road we found that there was only tent camping so we had wasted our time. As we were short of travelling time we decided to return to Rocky Creek War Memorial Park for our third night there. We were settled in when Terry and Bruno dropped by on their evening round. We chatted for a while and then as it was getting dark and wet we settled down for the night.

Tuesday 5th May 2009
Rocky Creek War Memorial Park
28°C Sunny

Leaving Rocky Creek War Memorial Park and dropping down into Cairns we hit the shops for the provisions we will need for the next two weeks. Pasta, Rice and sauces, pitta and naan breads, 30 litres of drinking water in 10 litre containers, tinned tomatoes and baked beans, and then all of the usual weeks fresh food. Then we found the Queensland Wildlife and Parks Service office and obtained all the information they could give us about the top end. With the cupboards packed to capacity and spare food under the bench seat we filled the fuel tanks and drove north. Arriving in Port Douglas we checked in to a caravan park for a last touch of luxury and sat in the pool for an hour. Then we phoned the RAC Victoria road line and got the latest road report. The road through Cape Tribulation to Cooktown is open to 4wd vehicles and the road up to Cape York is open to most vehicles so we are good to go. Tonight we walked into town for dinner in Mango Jam (The restaurant we had dinner with Steph and Mike six months ago, yes Jackie still had the 10% discount voucher we got last time).

Wednesday 6th May 2009
Port Douglas
26°C Humid, and cloudy with showers

Packing up this morning and filling the water tank and spare containers we left Port Douglas. Driving north we arrived in Mossman and found a gas supplier to fill our empty LPG cylinder. We then drove out to the Daintree River Ferry and paid for a single crossing. (We expect to come back by the main road) When the ferry arrived we drove on and parked at the front, After the short crossing we tried to start the Troopy and click, click nothing, oh no not again. Then Martin realised that he had left all the electrics on while we were parked. Turning them all off the Troopy started straight away. (Must remember that !)

With the rain falling (Well it is a rain forest) we drove through Daintree National Park and were amazed by the amount of development that has taken place since we were here last. Right up to Cape Tribulation there are resorts and spas. Passing Cape Tribulation the road stops and becomes the Bloomfield Track, a four wheel drive only section. Our average speed dropped to only 30kph as we wound up and down some very steep hills on a gravel track. As we descended the hill we found each time at the bottom a creek crossing, some small, some not so. At the end of the hard section we came to a road work area and had to wait quite a long time before we could proceed. While we waited in the traffic queue we ate our lunch. Just as we were finishing the last bite the traffic started moving. The vehicles at the front moved off but we were stuck behind a normal road car driven by a family on Aboriginals. They had great trouble getting through the road work without knocking their car to pieces. Eventually they moved over and allowed us and the other 4wd vehicles following to get past.

Filing with fuel in Cooktown we headed out into the National Park to find a camp site for the night. The first 20 km of gravel road was under repair and we wove between the road plant. Then it was more fast gravel broken up by washed out sections where we were down to 5 kph. After a couple more river crossings we arrived at Lake Emma and set up camp. We were exhausted after driving for six hours to cover three hundred kilometres. After a well earned cup of tea it was time for dinner and bed.

Thursday 7th May 2009
Lake Emma
31°C Sunny

After a long day yesterday we had a nice lay-in today. The trees shaded us from the sun so we didn’t get to warm. We decided to head further in to Lakefield National Park. After 25 kilometres towards Laura we turned north and drove seventy kilometres to Kalpowar Crossing. The roads north from here are all shut so we decided to camp here and then return to Laura tomorrow. We selected our site, wrote our name in the booking board and completed a camping self registration form. Having set up camp we went for a walk down to the river. There was a sign saying “Recent crocodile sighting” etc. Walking back up the ramp we strolled along the edge of a grassy area. Jackie disturbed a large goanna enjoying the sun and it swooshed off into the bush, Jackie thought it was a crocodile and nearly died on the spot. No Martin – Not Funny. We got back to the Troopy and had a nice cup of tea to get over the shock.

Friday 8th May 2009
Kalpowar Crossing
28°C Cloudy

We were woken in the night by bats landing in the tree beside us and knocking branches off the tree and on to the roof of the Troopy. Leaving Kalpowar this morning we had to retrace our path back to Laura as the road north out of the park is still closed after the damage done by the wet season. We came across a flock of Brolga within ten feet of the road. Surprised at the size we reversed for a second longer look. A little later we surprised a couple of nail tail wallabies in one of the river crossings. Arriving at the junction with the main road we turned north and drove up the Peninsula Developmental road to Coen. Parking at The Bends a free camp / rest area just north of town we set up camp by the river (Guaranteed safe – no crocs).

Saturday 9th May 2009
The Bend Coen
30°C Sunny

Waking early we got up and had brekie then packed up. Driving into Coen we picked up a bottle of de-ionised water for the Troopy’s battery as it was getting dry and a loaf of raisin bread for toast in the morning. Then it was north again, up the Developmental road, a good one hundred kilometres and hour on gravel with the occasional slow to 40 kph for dips and washes. Advice we have been given, do not ignore the dip signs. Some are hardly worth bothering with, but every now and then one is very steep with a deep wash out at the bottom which would take your axle out if you hit it at speed.

After two and a half hours we had covered the two hundred kilometres to Bramwell Station Roadhouse. Here was decision time, turn left for the Old Telegraph Track or right for the new Bamaga road. Filling with fuel we asked at the roadhouse about conditions on the Old Telegraph and were told that several people have gone up and they haven’t returned. We were also told that the first creek Palm Creek is the worst and it is only four kilometres up the track. We decided to drive to Palm Creek and make the decision there as to whether we would continue or return and drive the new road.

In 4wd low range we wound along the one vehicle width track dodging fallen trees and washes until we got to Palm Creek. Stopping the Troopy Martin changed his footwear from trainers and socks to his crocs. Then walking down the steep bank waded across the creek and checked the exit bank. Returning to the Troopy we chatted and made the decision to go on. We crawled down the steep bank and into the water. Climbing the exit bank we had completed the first of many crossings today. There were many more some shallow and some so deep the water came up to the top of the bonnet. At one point we thought we driving a boat and should rename our car the SS Troopy. We took the track to Gunshot Creek (It’s so steep and dangerous there is a by pass so you can avoid it). Looking at the crossing we decided we could make it. The drop into the water was very steep and high. At the bottom we had to do a dog leg to line up with the exit. The Troopy being so long required a couple of shunts then it was through the waster and up the bank with tyres spinning and engine roaring. We had to shunt again at the top to avoid dropping a wheel in a four metre deep wash out. Then we were safe at the top with Gunshot behind us. We stopped, set up camp and had a large drink. We were joined by twelve local lads doing the track the other way, and as we were drinking they stopped and each got a tin of beer out of the eskies strapped on the back of their quads. Then they left planning to stop for the night at the next crossing and we retired for the night tired but pleased with the days drive.

Sunday 10th May 2009
Gunshot Creek
32°C Sunny

Leaving Gunshot we continued north on the telegraph. There was only one more creek to cross before we re-joined the main road. As we stopped by the bank another troopcarrier pulled up, this one driven by a local. Speaking to the driver we said that if he knew the creek and wanted to pass he could. It turned out that he hadn’t driven across the creek either, so Martin entered the water to walk the creek. The other bloke took off his boots and did the same. We walked back and forward about five times trying to find a safe route. Each time we came to a very deep hole in the bed where the water was at least chest deep. Eventually we worked out a route that involved a dog leg in the middle of the creek. Climbing back into our vehicles we set off with the local leading. It was then that we noticed that he had a hired 4wd, Oh well. He made the crossing and we followed as soon as he was clear of the exit point.

Having driven up the main road for nine kilometres we turned off on to the northern section of the telegraph. Stopping at Fruitbat, Twin and Elliot falls on the way we crossed the first creek without incident. As Martin was walking the sandy bottomed creek his croc got stuck in the sand and came off. Turning back to look for it, it bobbed up behind him. Jackie from the bank saw it and started shouting “Croc croc”. Martin has never moved so fast in his life until he realised Jackie was shouting that his shoe was about to float over a small waterfall and disappear. We made several more crossings the last “Cannibal Creek” was very steep and difficult.

Shortly after leaving cannibal a metre deep wash down the middle of the track collapsed as we were straddling it and the Troopy dropped both drivers side wheels into it and we stopped with the drivers door six inches away from the side of the wash and at a 45° angle. We had to climb up and out of the passenger door to get out. Rigging the winch took very little time and digging the dirt away from in front of the wheel took a little longer. Then after three attempts we finally pulled the Troopy out of its hole.
<br>Continuing on to the next creek we wound down a gully the width of a vehicle for 50 metres and came to the ‘Bridge’ marked on the map. It consisted of about ten tree trunks dropped over a three metre deep ravine with a creek at the bottom. The bridge was only suitable for small vehicles and after having a good look we realised that the Troopy was too big. No further for us as it would be stupid to drop the Troopy into a ravine for nothing. We had to reverse back up the gully as there was no room to turn. Our route out required us to re-cross two of the creeks we had come over to get to the first track that lead to the main road. We carefully drove back past where we had bogged on the way in just getting through. Re-crossing cannibal took a couple of attempts to climb the bank we had descended earlier.

Getting back to the main road we drove to the Jardine River Ferry and found a sign on the ticket office door “Closed for lunch, back at one”. This was a surprise as it was ten to two. After ten minutes the ferry crossed to our side and a car drove to the office and we could pay for our crossing. An hour and a half later we parked at Cape York and walked to the tip of Australia. This is the Northern most point of the Australian Main land. Walking back to the car we drove into Seisia and found a caravan park. Checking in we jumped straight into the showers before sitting beside the Troopy looking out to sea as the sun set on another eventful day.

Monday 11th May 2009
Seisia
28°C Sunny

Leaving Seisia we headed south (well no choice really). Driving back to Coen and the camp site we stayed at on the way up took six and a half hours with a stop at Bramwell Junction Roadhouse for lunch. The trip was much quicker than our journey north as we used the new by-pass road. Even this is quite challenging but without the creek crossings of the telegraph track. After a long drive we were set up by the river for a quiet night.

Tuesday 12th May 2009
The Bend Coen
28°C Sunny

Up and moving on. The gravel road unwound and we were soon back on tarmac after close to 2000 km of gravel, dirt and sand. Taking the inland road we cut through the hills and down to Port Douglas and booked back into the caravan park we had left a week ago. Chucking all our clothes in the washer we jumped into the pool for a swim. With the washing done we settled in for the evening and ordered a pizza delivery. We deserved it after the last week.


Wednesday 13th May 2009
Port Douglas
25°C Cloudy

Driving out of Port Douglas for the last time this holiday we shopped in Cairns before heading out on the Savanah Way (Runs Cairns to Broome). The Troopy got some funny looks with the red dirt plastered all over the sides and rear. A couple of drivers gave us smiles and a thumbs up. Two hours later we stopped at Archer River for a free camp site, a nice spot near the river with toilets and cold showers. We packed away the shopping and settled in for the night pleased to be on our way westwards again.

Thursday 14th May 2009
Archer River
32°C Sunny

After a cold night (we had to get the sleeping bag back out) we set off again. Back past Undara and on westwards. The road dropped to a single tarmac lane with wide gravel shoulders for a long way. Arriving in Georgetown we fuelled up and had lunch before dropping into the Tourist Information to find out the road conditions on the Savanah Way. Jo, the nice lady suggested that we wait until we get to Burketown and see Frank in the Tourist Info as he has all the latest on the roads.

An hour down the road we came to a ute stopped just off of the road, slowing down to check that the driver didn’t need any help we spoke to the driver. It was just like a scene out of “Hot Fuzz” when Sgt Angel was talking to the man with all the guns. “Mummumm rumumm tumum Lock brumm sum missus, twisted it orff”. Turns out that he had a puncture but while he was on holiday someone had tampered with the lock that held his spare wheel on. He had sent his wife to get some tools in another car but he had just managed to twist the lock off and could now change his tyre so didn’t need our help.

Driving on, on one of the river crossings we saw a crocodile laying on the bank basking in the sun. We drove on fast. The road paralleled the Gulflander railway and one of our possible stops for the night was at Blackbull. This turned out to be a siding on the Gulflander and as we could see no signs that camping was allowed we drove on into Normanton and got a spot at the van park.

Friday 15th May 2009
Normanton
35°C Sunny

Off towards Burketown, rough gravel roads interspersed with strips of tarmac. Crossing the Leichhardt River we had to drive on the gravel road cleared through the floodplain sandbanks until we got on to the causeway and across the river. A little later we arrived in Burketown and visited the tourist info and found Frank. We should have no problems driving the remainder of the Savannah Way as the water on the crossings is less than knee deep.

Topping up with fuel at the local roadhouse as it is 480 kilometres to the next roadhouse through remote areas. We also filled our empty LPG cylinder and ate lunch. Ready to go again, we hit the road. Through more creek and river crossings, some dry, some with a couple of feet of water over them. After six hours driving and covering four hundred kilometres we arrived at Hells Gate Roadhouse. We will camp here the night. The place got its name because in the old days this is as far as the police would escort travellers as there were violent tribes ahead, not such a problem today.

Saturday 16th May 2009
Hells Gate
34°C Humid

With the sun rising behind early cloud we had a nice lay-in. Once up we got on the road again, north to Borroloola and fuel. We were now in the Northern Territories again. Leaving Borrolloola on the Carpentaria Highway we enjoyed the first and last tarmac of the day as 18 km later we turned north on the Savannah Way again and back on to gravel. We drove past a number of fires burning along both edges of the road and felt the heat through the windows. This is Aboriginal land and they manage the land with fire. At one of the fires an eagle dove across the road in front of us and picked up a lizard escaping the flames and took off again just before we got to him, wow talk about close.

We continued up the track through numerous creek and river crossings. At one point we saw something standing on the road in the distance. As we approached we thought it was a cow but it wasn’t it was a water buffalo and he didn’t want to move off the road. When we got within ten metres he spooked and trotted off the road, went a few metres turned and shook his horns at us. My they were big horns. Driving on after six and a half hours we came to our nights stop. Pulling into The Southern Lost City we found a camp site. The other two vehicles that were here left soon after we arrived leaving us alone. We set up camp for the night grateful to relax in peace after 450 km of gravel and corrugations.

Sunday 17th May 2009
Southern Lost City
35°C Sunny

Waking early we went for a walk around the stone formations of the lost city. With the rising sun shining through the gaps in the stone you could believe you were in a lost city with the trees growing between the buildings. After a nice walk we ate breakfast and packed up to move on. Another two hundred kilometres of rough gravel track brought us to Ropers Bar. Fifty kilometres later we arrived at the tarmac, stopping for lunch at a rest area we pumped the tyres back up to road pressures.

A hundred kilometres later we arrived at the Stuart Highway and completed our figure of eight around Australia. We had passed here six weeks ago on our way to Alice. Turning north on the next phase of our trip “Un-finished Business”, we will do the things we couldn’t the last time we were here because of the wet season. Another one hundred kilometres north we stopped at a rest area at King River for the night.

Monday 18th May 2009
King River
36°C Sunny

Leaving King River we drove the 50 km to Katherine and hit Woolworths for the food we needed then headed towards Darwin. Turning off the main road we drove into Litchfield National Park and eight kilometres down a 4WD only track to Tjaynera Falls. Driving through a fairly deep creek we arrived at the camp site to find a French couple waiting for us.

They had broken the fan on the engine of their bush camper and one of the blades had nicked the radiator which now had a slight leak. Oh dear four wheel driving lesson number two – “Enter the water slowly and build up speed and a bow wave”. They had entered at speed causing the water to surge up in the engine bay and hit the fan. They will have to be careful driving into Darwin tomorrow that they do not overheat their engine.

We settled down for the afternoon as it was very humid and the slightest activity covered us in sweat, hopefully it will cool tonight and we will be able to sleep.

Tuesday 19th May 2009
Tjaynera Falls
35°C Sunny

Having had breakfast we spoke to the French couple and suggested that they even up their fan by cutting the blades opposite the damaged ones to a corresponding length. The fan still vibrated but no where near as much and probably won’t damage the water pump if they get it replaces soon. Driving out we crossed the creek again and drove in towards Darwin. We found a garage with a shopping centre and a caravan park nearby. We booked the Troopy in for its now due 10000 km service and a few small faults. We will drop it off tomorrow morning. Then we booked into the caravan park for the night.

With accommodation and the Troopy service all arranged we drove on into Darwin and parking walked around town. Having had coffee we found the studio of the photographer we had met at Lake Ayre. He has just returned and is sorting through the photographs he has taken. Returning to the Troopy we drove back out to the caravan park for the night and got caught up on the laundry and personal pampering.

Wednesday 20th May 2009
Coolalinga
34° Sunny

We woke up this morning with everything wet as we had a tropical storm last night and the chairs and mozzie net got soaked as they were outside. Dropping the Troopy off for it’s fourth service we wandered around the shops until it was done. Once we had out transport back we picked up water and a couple of boxes of wine (‘cos we will not be able to get any while we drive the Gibb as most of the towns are Aboribinal and dry). We drove out to Howard Springs and booked into a nicer caravan park, last night was convenient for the garage but we didn’t want to stay an extra night. We enjoyed lazing around for the afternoon watching a peacock and his four peahens.

Thursday 21st May 2009
Howard Springs
34°C Sunny

After a slow start we went into Palmerston and spent the day looking around and having lunch before driving out of town towards Kakadu. About sixty kilometres along the Arnhem Highway we found a quiet road side rest area and settled in for the night.

Friday 22nd May 2009
Beatrice Hill
36°C Sunny

Woke up and watched a cloud of mozzies trying to get through our net windows. Continuing along the Arnhem Highway we found the Old Jim Jim Road and turned south as it is now open, it only opened on Monday. Towards the end of the road where it joins the Kakadu Highway we had to cross the South Alligator River. As this is the “old” road there isn’t a bridge you have to drive through the river at a fordable point (There be crocodiles here, Salties). Having crossed safely we drove to the end of the road nearest Jim Jim Falls and then continued down the 4WD track to the beginning of the gorge. Then we had and hour and a half ‘walk’ to the base of the falls. The path was visible occasionally as a rocky path that wound along the side of the gorge. Most of the time it consisted of direction arrows fixed on to the massive boulders. We climbed and scrambled around, over and under gigantic rocks until we finally arrived. There has been a saltwater crocodile sighted in the lower pools and we passed the croc trap floating in the water next to the signs saying not to swim and stay away from the banks. The walk had been worth it as Jim Jim Falls are spectacular and the pool under the falls is safe to swim in. Having eaten our picnic we scrambled back to the car and drove out to a camp spot at Copperfield Dam near Pine Creek for the night.

Saturday 23rd May 2009
Copperfield Dam
38°C Sunny

Driving south to Katherine we stocked up again in the now familiar shops and filled with fuel and water before driving west towards Kununurra. After a couple of hours driving we stopped for the night at Sullivan Campground in Gregory National Park. As we have had a couple of days long drives we spoilt ourselves with a relaxing afternoon listening to the birds. Then we watched the sun set and the bright stars come out.

Sunday 24th May 2009
Sullivan Campground
39°C Sunny

Waking up at four o'clock it was so cold we had to get the sleeping bag out, first time since Easter we have needed more than a sheet. After breakfast we packed up and drove west. At twelve o'clock we stopped at Saddle Creek rest area for lunch. We spent the night here back in March. As we were leaving another caravan pulled in. We said “Good Afternoon” as it was now half twelve. “Good morning” they answered. Both confused we chatted for a while and figured out we were on NT time and they were on WA time which is an hour and a half behind.

We crossed the border half and hour later and had to put our watches back the hour and a half, it’s going to be a long time until dinner. Driving into West Australia requires passing through the quarantine check point. Having had our fridge searched for contraband we were free to continue. A short while later we arrived in Kununarra and drove around town to remind ourselves what was there. Then we drove west of town and turned north off the highway. Twenty kilometres of dirt road later we arrived at a free camping spot beside the Ord River, at a place called Buttons Crossing. There are camp spots all down this side of the river and we picked one that was 50 metres from the river and up a steep bank, just in case there are any Saltwater Crocodiles in the river ( The sign says there is). As it was a hot afternoon and earlier than we normally stop we set up the awning for some extra shade and chilled out for the rest of the day. While we were relaxing we had to defend our camp spot against a bull and his ladies who decided they wanted to walk through. They eventually got the hint and walked around only to return about an hour later. We went through the same routine and they passed behind the Troopy and disappeared down the river.

Monday 25th May 2009
Buttons Crossing
37°C Sunny

After a nice peaceful nights sleep (not counting the noise of crocodiles splashing in the river) we drove to Lake Argyle and looked at the dam and the view. Driving across the dam and down behind it to the picnic site in its shadow we stopped for a while. As it was still early we drove back towards Kununurra and then north to Mirima National Park and The Hidden Valley. Parking we went for a short walk before eating lunch at a picnic bench under a set of shade sails. We found a gas re-filler and filled our empty LPG cylinder and then visited the local tourist info. Leaving town we found a roadside rest area and settled in for the afternoon.

Tuesday 26th May 2009
Kununurra Roadside Rest Area
36°C Sunny

Driving in to Kununurra to drop the Troopy in to have the tracking checked and the tyres swapped around we walked into town. Getting back to the garage to find that they hadn’t finished the tracking as their car hoist couldn’t lift our Troopy. Draining the water tank and unloading the drinking water, clothes and recovery equipment made the Troopy light enough and the tracking was completed. We checked into the Lakeside Resort and booked dinner in the Sails Restaurant as an early birthday present for Jackie. Having eaten we sat and chatted with a couple from Tasmania who had just arrived and made the same mistake as us with the hour and a half time change from the Northern Territory to West Australia.

Wednesday 27th May 2009
Lakeside Resort
34°C Sunny

Happy Birthday Jackie. We treated ourselves to breakfast in the restaurant before heading out along the Gibb River Road. The first 50 km were very bumpy and having driven 100 km we noticed that the fuel gauge had dropped and we had used enough fuel for 250 km. Stopping we found diesel running out of a dangling pipe. We quickly crimped the pipe with a pair of mole grips as a temporary fix and continued on. Arriving at the Pentecost River we found a very wide flowing river, fortunately there was a marked crossing so we didn’t have to wade to find the shallow spots. Good thing as there are many salt water crocs in this river. Driving trough the water came up to the lights in places but we made it safely across. Dropping Jackie with the video camera Martin crossed the river twice more so we could get some film. Three hours of washes, jump-ups, creek and river crossings later we arrived at Mount Barnett road house and got a permit to camp in Manning Gorge. Driving out we set up camp in a nice spot. We didn’t swim as the road house told us that there were crocs in the gorge. Repairing the fuel leak with a more permanent fix took no time and cleaned up we relaxed with cheese and biscuits.

Thursday 28th May 2009
Manning Gorge
25°C Sunny

Waking up with the sun at five thirty we left Manning Gorge and returned to the roadhouse. With the leak fixed we filled the good tank and put a few litres in the repaired one as a test. Completing the second half of the Gibb river Road was done by one o'clock and we arrived in Derby. Stopping at a garage we got a mechanic to check our repair and he said it would be OK until Alice, so we will order replacement parts for the damaged ones there. Leaving Derby we drove out to Windjana Gorge NP for the night.

Friday 29th May 2009
Windjana Gorge
32°C Cloudy

We were woken this morning by a bird in the tree four foot from our heads making a noise like a very loud car alarm. Sound asleep to wide awake in nothing flat. Once we had recovered from the shock we decided to get up as we had a full day planned. Driving out of the camp site we turned into the day use area and went for a walk into Winjana Gorge. The path drops down hill and over a small creek before ending at a sheer rock face. Then you notice the cleft in the rock and realise that the path continues through an upside down vee in the rock. After fifteen metres the rock opens into the gorge proper. A paradise when compared to the arid landscape outside the gorge. The water is deep and clear and very inviting, we chose not to swim as there were crocs on the opposite bank. They may only be freshies but…. After a while we left and getting back to the Troopy were soon driving south.

Thirty five kilometres later we arrived at Tunnel Creek. Putting water in our hiking rucksack and grabbing every torch we had we walked to the entrance to the gorge. The first ten metres we scrambled over some large boulders and found the entrance to the cave. Walking down the slope and up to our knees in cold water we turned on our torches. Then came a magical walk through an underground river, in and out of the water. The floor was sandy and mostly gentle slopes. After 400 metres a roof collapse allowed light in and a glimpse of the sky before we were plunged back into darkness. We found frogs and fish in the water and spotted bats hanging from the roof of the cavern. After eight hundred and fifty metres we emerged into the sun again at a swimming hole. Having spent a relaxing half hour we waded and scrambled back to the start.

Leaving Tunnel Creek we drove south again until we hit the main road and turned east through Fitzroy Crossing to our stop for the night at Mary River. We stopped here last time through for lunch and the place was deserted. With the dry season well there are about twenty caravans and camper trailers here tonight. As we drove in we spotted an old acquaintance from a roadside rest area near Katherine and spent the afternoon chatting before settling for the night.

Saturday 30th May 2009
Mary River
31°C Sunny

Moving on this morning we drove into Halls Creek and filled the fuel and water tank. We would have picked up some milk as well but a tour bus beat us to it and took all the remaining milk. We will have to ration milk until we get back from the Bungle Bungles. An hour after leaving Halls Creek we arrived at the turn off for the Bungle Bungles. Opening the gate and driving in we started the 57 km drive to the visitor centre. The track was quite rough in places with several creek crossings and it took us an hour and a half to complete the trip. Registering at the entry station and paying for two nights camping we drove to the camping area and picked a nice shady spot. Setting up camp we watched lots of vehicles arrive and drive past looking for nice camping sites, sorry but this one is ours. We relaxed in the shade of the tree next to us for the afternoon.

Sunday 31st May 2009
Bungle Bungles
32°C Cloudy

Waking to an overcast and damp morning, it had rained during the night and there was still a very light drizzle in the air. We decided to do the Cathedral Gorge walk as it would be relatively cool. Driving to the car park we filled our packs with water and put on our ankle braces. With our sticks and hats we set off. The start was nice a flat-ish walk up a dry creek bed with flat rock and soft sand. As the walls of the Bungles closed in the going got a little tougher and we had to climb over rocks at the edge of the gorge.

Fortunately this is better prepared than Jim Jim Falls and there are handrails at the dangerous sections and a ladder bolted to the rock to help us up the sheer rock section. Arriving at the dead end Cathedral we were impressed, the size is indescribable and it is impossible to photograph it all in one shot. We wandered around listening to our footsteps echoing back and forward off of the rock. Then we sat and enjoyed the silence. Well worth the drive and walk to get here.

As we left we passed a noisy group from an extreme tour, glad we had not shared the experience with them as we wouldn’t have got the silence. On the way back to the car we completed the Domes Walk as it branched off the walk we were doing. Back at the car we drove back towards the camp site and came across an Australian Bustard (a large bird) standing in the road. As he was posing for photos we snapped a few. Back at the camp site we soaked our ankles and enjoyed the afternoon sun.

Monday 1st June 2009
Bungle Bungles
36°C Sunny

Last night was a two dog night (so cold you need two dogs in with you to keep you warm) We had the blanket and the sleeping bag on the bed by morning. Getting up we packed and drove out to Echidna Gorge. Parking the Troopy we walked into the gorge. The track was the bed of the dried up stream and the walls of the gorge got closer and closer. Eventually they were only an arms length apart and 100 metres tall. The gorge twists into the range and comes to an end at a rock fall. Retracing our steps we returned to the Troopy and started the 54 kilometre drove back to the main road. Arriving we pulled into Spring Creek rest area for the night and found a spot for the night. There are twelve caravans here. Last time we were here we shared it with only one other car.

Tuesday 2nd June 2009
Spring Creek
34°C Sunny

Joining the parade of vehicles leaving Spring Creek this morning we headed back towards Halls Creek and stocked up with milk, bread, water and fuel. Having been breathalysed at a random check we drove out to the start of the Tanami Road. The sign said 103 km to Wolfe Creek and 1040 km to Alice. Stopping at the road open sign we dropped our tyre pressures once again for the gravel road. As we were doing it several 4wd vehicles passed us. Once we started off again we soon caught and passed them as the corrugations were harder for them with their road tyres and high pressures. The side turning for Wolfe Creek Crater had a sign so small we overshot by about 20 metres and had to reverse back to get around the corner. The road was heavily corrugated and after Jackie had opened and closed three gates we eventually arrived at the crater. Pulling into the camp ground we set up camp and sat in the shade of the Troopy and had dinner.

Wednesday 3rd June 2009
Wolfe Creek Meteor Crater
32°C Sunny

Waking early we got up and walked to the crater and climbed the wall. The sun was rising as we got to the top and the view was spectacular. The vegetation on the crater floor gave scale to what we were seeing and there were distinct circles of plants running around the centre. After enjoying the sight for a while we walked back to the Troopy and had breakfast. Moving on we returned to the Tanami Road and turned south. A couple of hours later we arrived at the West Australia – Northern Territories border. Unlike the crossing on the main road there is no one here so we stopped for lunch. Getting our chairs out we sat and watched the traffic ….. None.

Driving on we came to the turning for Rabbit Flat and needing fuel we turned in. Eventually the owner arrived and filled our tank as we chatted. We had seen him on the telly years ago. This was the most expensive fuel we have brought in Australia A$2.20 per litre. In town we have paid as little as A$1.14. Still when you need fuel the price is irrelevant and the conversation was good. After longer than a normal garage stop we were on our way again and ended our drive at a bush camping area at Renahans Bore. There is a disused wind pump and water tank here, other than two other travellers we have the place to ourselves. A relief after the night at Spring Creek.

Thursday 4th June 2009
Renahans Bore
33°C Sunny

With the time change sunrise came at a more respectable time of seven o'clock, instead of the half five we had in West Australia. Moving on we drove the last of the gravel Tanami Road to Tilmouth Roadhouse and stopped to pump up the tyres and eat lunch. During the drive down the Tanami we passed sixty four cars either rolled, crashed or broken beyond economic recovery. Grateful that we were not one of them, we drove into Alice Springs and got one of the last spots in the caravan park we stayed at last visit. There is a race on Monday, it’s the Finke River Race and all the other camp spots are taken by people preparing for the race. There are off road motorbikes everywhere. We did the usual laundry and personal pampering before driving into town for dinner.

Friday 5th June 2009
Alice Springs
28°C Cloudy

Leaving Alice after a trip to the shops. We are heading south and the winter. We pulled into Henbury Meteorite Craters to camp for the night and had a chat with the rangers who were checking the site. Paying our camping fee (A$6.60) for the night we set up camp and spent a nice afternoon before the rain started. Some fellow campers from South Australia dropped by for a chat and gave us some freeze dried nectarine and pear. We ate dinner inside and the rain stopped at about eight o'clock so we could sleep comfortably.

Saturday 6th June 2009
Henbury Meteorite Craters
25°C Cloudy

With a late start this morning due to chatting with another family from South Australia we hit the road at ten o'clock. Back out on the Stuart Highway we headed south. After six hours we arrived in Coobar Pedy and found a camp site for the night near a Hutchinson’s Monument. As we cooked dinner the clouds turned black and the rain fell. We are definitely back in the south and it is winter.

Sunday 7th June 2009
Coobar Pedy
20°C Sunny

After a noisy night we woke and moved on. The wind howled across the open desert around Coobar Pedy and the one good thing is we had decided to park in the lea of the hill with the monument on and the worst of the winds passed over us. Continuing south we were passed by a seemingly endless parade of caravans all heading north for the winter. We passed several parking areas where we could have camped but they were all busy and very open so we pressed on. After five hours we arrived at
Monalena Lagoon rest area, there were trees and an area behind the day car park where we could get away from the road and camp. Setting up camp we chatted about arriving in Port Augusta again tomorrow morning for the third time. That will complete our odyssey around Australia and the next step is to return to Victoria and sell out trusty Troopy.

Monday 8th June 2009
Monalena Lagoon
16°C Windy

Leaving Monalena we drove the last hundred kilometres of the Stuart Highway into Port Augusta for the third time this trip. Stopping at the tourist information we had a steak roll in their café. Then after fuelling up we headed south to Port Parham and our nights stop.

With the drive around Australia completed we are now heading towards Melbourne to sell the Troopy and our equipment before visiting relatives and returning home. Thank you to everyone who has followed our journey. we hope you had as much fun guessing where we would be next as we did. We will not be updating this diary from now as we are just pottering around tying up loose ends.

Thank you again

Martin and Jackie