On an organised tour this time with Explore Worldwide
Our tour route.
Sunday 31st May 2015
Tour booked and deposit paid.
Friday 26th August
Shutting up the house, making ready to leave is routine now. By 15:00 we were on the road to Heathrow. Parking the car in the long term car park we jumped the shuttle bus to terminal 5.
Checking in we cleared security and found a restaurant for dinner. Our flight developed a delay and we didn't board until 20:00. Turns out our aircraft went tech and BA had to rush finish one of the aircraft on it's maintenance cycle and put it into service. The delay was prepping the aircraft. We boarded the plane whilst it was still being fueled and stored for the flight.
Finally boarded we waited for the passenger sharing our row of seats to arrive but she didn't turn up and when the doors closed we spread out for extra comfort.
By the time we took off it was dark and we settled in for an eleven hour flight to Johannesburg, South Africa. This is our 100th flight together. So a small celebratory drink was in order.
After the in flight dinner it was time to settle down for a sleep.
Saturday 27th August
Waking up with two hours to arrival we could hear the cabin crew prepping breakfast and the queue for the toilets building.
We enjoyed the view of the sun rising over the horizon but then we had to lower the window shades for a while because the low sunlight was blinding.
Landing at Johannesburg we got of the aircraft and were told to follow the signs for International Transfers. This was wrong, we had to retrace our steps and get through the queue for immigration. As we were already an hour late this added extra pressure.
Having collected our bags and got through customs we found we were in the wrong terminal. For a small tip (Any currency) a nice man steered us in the right direction and up a lift to the international terminal.
After a few wrong turns we made it to Air Botswana check in. Then back through security and passport control. After a mad two hours we finally arrived at the gate for our connecting flight to Maun. Sitting and enjoying the breeze we waited to board. Hopefully we will have more time on the homeward trip to explore Johannesburg Airport.
We chatted to some of the other passengers and discovered that they are on our tour. They seem pleasant, which is good considering we are going to spend the next two weeks together.
We took a shuttle bus out to the stand and walked to our aircraft, an ATR42 belonging to Air Botswana.
Once we we at cruising altitude the cabin crew dished out box meals and drinks. The meals were pleasant either beef or cheese sweet pastries, cheese spread and crackers and dried fruit.
We now cruised back northwest the way we had come for two hours to get to Maun. The same trip had taken less than an hour earlier on the BA Airbus. Unfortunately it couldn't drop us off.
Landing at Maun airport we cleared immigration, which is slower than Johannesburg. We were met by BiBi our leader/guide for the tour. After a quick visit to change cash we arrived at our hotel. After checking in we chilled in the bar til dinner.
We ordered dinner at five, forty five. "Chips and potato skins are off so is the mashed potatoes. There is no chicken but apart from order what you like". So our group of six ordered 4 burgers, a salad and a jacket potato, a pizza and a bowl of soup.
An hour later the waitress came and told us our food was "getting ready". Not sure what that meant but after another half an hour the soup and salad arrived. Two hours later we had all eaten and it was time for an early night.
Sunday 28th August
Awake at six, breakfast and on the road. 350km to the Okavango Panhandle. Stopping at a supermarket for drinking water we drove for four hours on tarmac highway. Slowing down for goats and cows wandering across the road. We saw ostriches walking through the bush beside the road.
Arriving in Shakawe we turned off of the main road and down a sandy track to the river. We boarded our houseboat and settled in to our cabins for the next three nights.
After lunch the houseboat motored down the Okavango River. We watched the banks for birds and crocodiles. After a while the captain saw the tall grass moving further away from the river. He switched off the engine and drifted up to the bank. We watched a couple of elephant slowly make their way past us. Then we motored on to our stopping point for the night.
After watching the sunset we had dinner cooked by the houseboat crew. Then we discussed tomorrows program over a few drinks before retiring for the night.
Monday 29th August
We were woken this morning at seven o'clock by the generator starting. With that running we could have a shower before walking upstairs for breakfast. Unfortunately our shower only ran cold so it was a strip wash and breakfast. Boarding the tinny (Oz slang for a small metal boat) we returned to where our landcriser was parked. We drove out to Tsodilo Hills, about an hours drive.
We walked for about two and a half hours stopping at sites of shelter and rock painting. Back at the car we had a packed lunch before visiting the museum. Then we returned to our houseboat. Once back on board the houseboat motored further upstream.
Mooring for the night we chatted in the bar til dinner and charged our batteries. After dinner we had our usual briefing about tomorrow before bed.
Tuesday 30th August
Generator wake up call at seven again. Out in the tinny for a couple of hours bird and wildlife spotting. Motoring up river we saw a huge number of birds including fish eagles, storks and Ibis.
We also came across a herd of hippopotamus in a quiet branch off of the main river. After some time watching their antics we continued on. Spotting several Nile Crocodiles basking on the river bank. We watched until they got fed up with us and slid into the water.
Further upstream we were surprised by a hippo surfacing close to the boat and BiBi had to gun the motor to get clear in case the hippo overturned the boat. Swimming in croc infested water sounds a bad idea. Although more people have been killed by hippos than lions and crocs in Africa.
Back at the houseboat for lunch and a siesta before the houseboat moved again in the afternoon.
While the houseboat motored down the Okavango River we saw a herd of elephant under the trees in the distance. Arriving at our mooring (well the piece of riverbank where the houseboat lives) we clambered into the tinny and went on a sunset bird watching trip. We saw a monitor and more crocs as the sunset. Then we came across a tree full of monkeys who were not too pleased to see us if the noise was a clue.
After sunset Captain Deadfish as he liked to be called suggested that we all put on eye protection as he opened the throttle and we rocketed back to the houseboat for dinner.
Wednesday 31st August
Transit day driving from Botswana to Livingstone in Zambia. Up at 05:30, breakfast and on the road. Twenty minutes after leaving the houseboat we arrived at the border between Botswana and Namibia.
Out of the car and into Botswana border control, fill out exit card and queue to get passport stamped. Back into car and drive through border zone. Get out of car and enter Namibia border control, fill out entry card and queue to get passport stamped.
Driving out of border control we came across some eland and some sable, then a bull elephant crossing the road. Turning right at the road that runs along Namibia's Caprivi Strip we headded towards Zambia. After three and a half hours of waving at kids in burmas (traditional house enclosures) we arrived at tbe border between Namibia and Zambia.
Here we go again, out of the car and into Namibia border control, fill out exit card and queue to get passport stamped. Back into car and drive through border zone. Get out of car and enter Zambia border control, queue to pay US $50 for visa and get passport stamped. At least no form to fill in this time.
Back in the car we crossed the bridge over the Zambezi and immediately got stuck behing an abnormal oversize truck squeezing under power cables. The escort vehicle had the road blocked so BiBi drove along the path and into a market, through the stalls, back out onto the path and eventually out on to the road.
Getting past the abnormal load was the good news. Unfortunately the bad news was the road. Zambia don't fix the pot holes in the road. Some of the pot holes deserve nation status they are that big. We spent the best part of two hours weaving around pot holes ans sometimes even driving off the road. There was a stretch of a mile where the dirt track beside the road was better than the road.
Ten hours after leaving our houseboat we arrived in Livingstone and checked in to our hotel, had a shower and met in the bar for a drink and dinner. Then it was bed time as we have an early start.
Thursday 1st September
Waking at six we collected our packed breakfasts and then met our guide for this morning in the lobby. We had booked on a walking safari. Climbing into the Mazda pickup we drove out to Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park. As we went we ate our cheese and ham sandwiches. On arrival we met the two other people on the safari and were given coffee and a muffin. Nice start.
We met our guard with his AK47. We were told to walk in single file with the guard leading followed by the guide. Zig zagging through the bush we were shown animal tracks, scat and evidence of grazing animals. Who knew you could tell the age of the elephant by how it had eaten the bark off of a branch.
We spotted a rhino on the next ridge and walked around to where it had been and found five sitting in the sun resting. We managed to get within 20 meters and were watching when we heard two more approaching from behind. They walked past us about 6 meters away as they made their way to join the group. After twenty minutes we slowly moved away and returned to our transport and enjoyed a game drive along the river bank back to the hotel.
We immediately met BiBi and off we went to Victoria Falls (Mosi-oa-Tunya in the local dialect - The Smoke that Thunders) . We walked around the falls taking a few photos before finding a cafe for ice cream and coffee. It's the dry season but the falls are still spectacular. After a short shopping trip we headed back to the hotel for siesta before dinner.
Friday 2nd September
After breakfast we checked out of the hotel and loaded the troopcarrier and drove out of town. An hour down the road we turned off towards the border and ferry to Botswana. Arriving at the river we had to complete immigration.
Here we go again, out of the car and into Zambia border control, queue to get passport stamped. Back into car and drive down to ferry. Get out of the car. Say "no thank you" to all the men selling copper bracelets and wooden animals. Watch the car loaded on the ferry then get in the passenger boat and cross the river.
While we were waiting for the vehicle ferry to catch up we noticed that the border fence with Zimbabwe didn't reach all the way to the water. So asking the Botswanian police if we could, we took it in turns to step over the border. Afterwards the policeman told us that the Zimbabwe army patrolled the other side of the border and they might object. Back into car and drive to the Botswanian border control, queue to get passport stamped. At last back in the car and in our way. Stopping in Kasane we shopped for supplies for the night before driving out into Chobe National Park.
Arriving at our camp site for the night, the tents were already up so we only had to get our bags out of the trailer and put them in our tent. Tea and coffee were ready under the awning and while we drank that lunch was served. We then had three hours to sort out our beds and relax.
At four we loaded up and went on a two and a half hour game drive. Seeing herds of elephant, giraffe, meerkat, mongoose, wildebeest, warthog and Cape buffalo. Returning to camp after sunset we had dinner before sitting around the camp fire chatting.
Using the long drop toilets before bed we settled down for the night with only the stars and the animal noises for company. During the night a herd of elephant passed the camp, we could hear the branches being snapped off the trees as they ate.
Sarurday 3rd September
Out early on another game drive. Driving by the river we saw a very large python slithering through the bush, it was at least six meters long. We then came across a pride of lions sitting in the sun watching the river bank.
Returning to camp for a wash and bunch, we then drove into Kasane again to shop for six days supplies. This was our last chance. Jackie brought a two litre box of wine as glass bottles wouldn't survive the trip. As the fridge in the vehicle was small and we share it with four other people we decanted 500ml onto a small plastic water bottle and placed that in the fridge with a couple of cokes for Martin.
Placing the goods in the vehicle we took a boat tour along the Chobe river. For two and a half hours we watched and photographed hippos, crocs and various birds.
Back at the campsite after a sunset game drive we had dinner and then sat around the camp fire chatting. With no mozzies it was a very pleasant evening. Retiring to bed we were woken later by what we think was a Honey Badger getting at the rubbish bag. It sounded like he was running around wearing the rubbish bag as a cape and biting and crushing the cans and boxes.
Aftet half an hour he got bored with our rubbish and moved on leaving us to sleep.
Sunday 4th September
Up at six again, it's time to move on. Washing and dressing we packed our bags and dropped them by the vehicle. Our bedding we put into supplied duffle bags and making sure we marked ours so we will be able to identify them tonight, dropped them by a tree.
While we were eating breakfast our bags were loaded and our tents were put away. Climbing aboard the vehicle we took a dawn game drive before heading south east along the river towards Ngoma gate.
Leaving the park we drove down the tarmac road. Unfortunately after just forty kilometres the tarmac ran out and the road turned into a sandy track. Shortly after leaving the tarmac we stopped for tea and coffee.
While we were parked we were passed by a group of four off road vehicles taking part in a competition of some kind. They all had stickers claiming to be part of something called "Bots 2016".
Finishing lunch we continued on, soon catching up with two party that had passed us. They obviously were not that experienced as one was bogged in the sand on a slight hill. Probably hadn't dropped their tyre pressures. While they were digging and winching themselves out we passed them by driving through bush.
37 km later we arrived at the entrance back into Chobe National Park. After a short break to pay the enterance fee we were on our way . A few kilometres later we met a vehicle coming the other way. We pulled over to let them past but as we pulled back onto the track we punctured a tyre.
BiBi our Tour leader, Guide and Driver only took twenty minutes to change the wheel. Then we were off again, after about twenty minutes there was a bang from the back and we had to stop. The trailer was 20 metres back ou the road and the trailer spare wheel was even further away. BiBi jumped out and Martin climbed over the safey tail to help. The trailer spare wheel had come loose and as it fell it had released the trailer hitch.
Working together BiBi and Martin dragged the trailer back to the landcruiser and re - hitched it. Then recovered the spare wheel and placed it in the trailer. All back in the landcruiser we continued to our camp site for the night.
Once we arrived and set up camp we had time for a shower. The camp team boiled water in bucket over a wood fire then taking that and a bucket full of cold water went to where the bush shower had been set up. This consisted of a small canvas telephone booth sized enclosure with a rope thrown over a branch above it. They mixed the water to a nice warm temperature and filled another bucket with a stopcock and shower rose fitted in the bottom. This was hauled up to just sbove head height using the rope. We took it in turns to shower.
So undress and step into the shower. turn on the water and get wet, then turn of the water whilst lathering up hair and soaping body. Then turn water back on to rinse, turn off water and rough dry before exiting to allow the next person to shower. We managed to shower three people out of a bucket.
Once we had all had our showers we set off on a game drive. After watching the sunset we returned to camp where the crew had dinner ready. After a chat around the camp fire we went to bed.
Monday 5th September
At half midnight we heard a crash which turned out to be a 5 ton elephant tripping over the guy line of the toilet tent and flattening it.
The elephant then approached the camp wash basins outside our neighbour's tent and finding them empty, threw them on the floor.
He then moved to our tent and in one snort, with a sound like twenty children sucking the last of their milkshakes.
He emptied Martin's basin.
Then with a noise like ten toilets flushing poured it all down his throat.
Then after a quick snuffle to make sure no water had been missed he moved on to Jackie's basin.
As he did his tusk pushed against the mozzie net door of our tent, just two feet from our heads.
He then drank Jackie's basin.
Having finished all that was available to drink he shook the last water out of his trunk and we got a very early shower as the water splashed through the mozzie net.
He then wandered off and we lay in the dark hardly able to believe what happened.
Waking up again at six we packed up and had breakfast. Leaving the campsite we toured the park before heading south. On dirt roads and tracks all day today. We made slow progress and after stopping for tea and coffee at the exit from Chobe National Park we arrived at Moremi Game Reserve in time to have a picnic lunch.
Driving around Moremi on our first game drive the park is stunning. Enjoying the view we came across a couple of lionesses and got to within three feet of them. Arriving at our camp site for the next two nights we settled in and had a bush shower.
Within the hour we were back in the vehicle and off on another game drive. Stopping for a sunset view we returned to camp after dark. As we approached the campsite we spotted a cerval and stopped to watch for a time. Back at camp it was time for dinner and bed.
Tuesday 6th September
Awake at three o'clock due to the lion having a roar. It's amazing how that noise will wake you from a sound sleep when you are in a tent. Back to sleep for a lay in as we don't have to get up until half six.
Out on another game drive. Stopping at a local village we are a little short of water so we brought 5lt and two cans of diet coke for Martin and that came to five pounds. Still the goods have to be trucked out here. Then it was back to the camp for lunch and a shower.
In the afternoon we went on another game drive. Squeezing through the bush and splashing through the water we found a solitary male lion just relaxing under a bush. At one point we were less than 3 feet away from him in an open sided game viewing vehicle. We also sat and watched as a jackal walked across the open grass land and entered a bush looking to catch a bird.
As the sun set we made our way back to camp for dinner and bed.
Wednesday 7th September
Lay in this morning till 06:30. Unfortunately no one told the lion who started roaring at 05:00. The side effect of this was nobody wanted to leave their tent because we had no idea how close he was.
Eventually we heard the crew start boiling water for breakfast and decided that it was safe to make a run for the toilet tent. We broke camp and headed out on another game drive.
Bouncing along tracks and through bushes we saw lots of animals and birds. After an hour we suddenly stopped, we had picked up another puncture. Replacing it with a spare only took twenty minutes but that was our last spare. So we drove out of the park to a lodge who would let BiBi fix one of our spares. On the way we found a leopard in a thicket. BiBi said as we do not have a spare tyre it would be a risk to go in, what do we think.
To turn back from our first possible leopard sighting was unthinkable so we squeezed in between the trees and deeper into the thicket. There sitting in the shade under a tree was a beautiful leopard.
That completed the "Big Five" for us. We have seen them all
:-
Lion
Leopard,
Elephant
Rhino
and Cape Buffalo.
Retracing our route back to the track we waited while BiBi fixed a spare tyre. We stopped at the entrance back into the park for tea and coffee then started the drive to Xakanaxa (the x is a tongue click as the name is in the Kalahari Sand People dialect ).
Shortly after leaving the park gate we found a dead antelope up a tree. That we realised is a leopards larder. So we looked around and found the leopard sitting under a bush nearby. After watching the leopard for about twenty minutes we continued. Driving on, another two hours of sandy track later we arrived at our camp site.
After lunch, a siesta and a shower we were off again looking for animals. Driving out to a place called Third Bridge we had a nice afternoon game viewing and after sunset we headed back to camp. As it got dark we suprised a hyena and stopped to photograph it.
This made us late so it was full dark as we pulled in. During the night we heard movement outside the tent. As Jackie looked out of the mozzie screen a hyena looked in. We think the hyena was the most shocked of the two as after just one look it bolted for the bushes. After that the only noise was the cicadas and the ground squirrels scratching around the tent.
Thursday 8th September
Waking up on our last full day on safari at six thirty for breakfast and our on a game drive. We found a pride of lions sitting around on a small hillock with a couple of dead trees. We were amazed to see a very brave ground squirrel jump onto a lioness and use her as a spring board to get up onto the tree trunk. This made the lioness jump snd snarl.
Driving back we stopped at Third Bridge and chatted to a couple doing scientific research on African wild dogs. They had two children strapped into child car seats in the back of their open top landrover.
We drove through the shallow ford and onto the wood bridge to cross the flowing water. Then we had 15 km back to camp and that took an hour. At camp it was time for lunch, a siesta and a shower before going back out on an evening drive.
At the end of the game drive we returned to the lions on Dead Tree Island at sunset. Returning to our camp for our last night under canvas we found a troop of vervet monkeys and baboons were setting up home on the trees above us for the night.
After dinner and a chat around the camp fire we were getting ready for bed when a pack of hyena arrived. They hid in the shadow of the trees until we went to bed. While we were waiting to sleep we could hear the monkeys and hyena moving around.
Friday 9th September
Waking up at half past five the monkeys in the trees above us had decided to wake up and play tag chase. I think one of them took a wee on our tent. It turned out it was our neighbour's tent that got peed on. Fotunately it hit the canvas and not the mozzie screen. At half six for the last time we packed our bags and struck camp. After breakfast began the last leg of our safari, heading to Maun and our hotel for the night.
After a few last chance photos we arrived back in Maun and our hotel.
Saturday 10th September
Lazy start today breakfast then check out. At 12:00 BiBi arrived to take us to Maun airport. Joining the queue for check in for our Air Botswana flight to Johannesburg, dropped off our bags and got through customs and immigration. The waiting room was too small but we got seats.
With only two of the four ceiling fans working it got quite sweaty. After half an hour we were called to board. Walking across the apron to the aircraft dried the sweat and soon the aircraft started and the air conditioning came on.
Taking off we climbed through a layer of turbulence but soon it settled down sand the cabin crew dished out Botswanian Biltong and drinks.
Landing at Johannesburg we breezed through immigration with no queue. Our bags were on the baggage carousel. Navigating the terminal was easy as we've been here before.
We checked in at British Airways the back through security and immigration (another stamp in oir passports). With timeto spare we wandered around the shops before grabbing a coffee. As we made our way to the gate the second boarding call was made for our flight.
At the gate there was no queue so we walked straight to our seats. The other members of our tour had been worrying about us. Taking our seats we departed 20 minutes early.
After a quiet flight, only one small medical emergency, we landed at Heathrow. collecting our car from the long term car park we smooth and easy. As was the drive home.
We have driven 2269 km about half on sandy tracks and roads. With a fantastic adventure behind us it's time to look forward to the next one.